lurkalot
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Posts posted by lurkalot
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23 minutes ago, el barto said:
Returning the saw to them so they can fix their own mistakes doesn't fill me with much confidence...
Will probably wait for Spud to become less busy...
Thanks for everyone's input/suggestions.
I can also understand how you feel, but the bottom line is you paid them money to do the job, either they fix their mess, better still or give your money back, so you can put it towards someone doing it properly. If you just leave it then they've got away with it, and will do the same to others.
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12 minutes ago, el barto said:
You can see where the front one is supposed to be but isn't on the rebuilt saw.
Therefore they haven't done the job properly, so sling it back at them.
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Just as a matter of interest, as it was a partial rebuild by the repair shop, who fitted the new flywheel? How was the engine locked to do the nut up, Rope or piston stop? If rope used maybe it got cut off and lodged in a port.
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4 minutes ago, el barto said:
No sir read it again, it says "they told me it needed new piston rings".
Obviously my appointment at Specsavers is over due. Sorry.
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OK, that makes things a little clearer. Though in your first post you stated it needed a new piston and rings and you gave them the go ahead to do it.
So you've made sure the flywheel isn't hitting the ignition coil, and the air gap is set? If this isn't the problem I'd sling it straight back to the guys who rebuilt it for you.
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1 hour ago, el barto said:
got it all back together with a nice new flywheel and... the flywheel doesn't turn. The brake is off and the cord is rewinding ok
Can you explain that scenario a bit more please. Doesn't really make sense. Are you saying you can pull the start cord but the engine doesn't turn? And why did it need a new flywheel? I take they're not a Stihl main dealer, fitting a fifteen quid piston and rings?
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Might be a stupid question but where did the two holes in the crankcase come from?
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Sorry, regards ordering anything I'm the wrong person to speak to, I don't work with those brands. I just found the info for you. You also need to make sure the part is the same between brands, although it does look the same.
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Is it the same mower as the KAZZ, Danarm , Lawnflite etc? http://www.danarm.co.uk/Lawnmowers/pdf/71008-377.pdf
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Pinion on the 81T (trimmer) screws onto the drum if I remember correctly. While the 81R (cutter) is a one piece drum - gear which is a press fit in the bearing with a circlip holding it in place. And obviously another circlip holding the bearing into the housing.
I've rebuilt loads of 81R's, but can't remember the last time I stripped a 81T, so sorry can't be much more help.
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Can't believe they would have packed it for shipping like that. You sure the courier wasn't playing football with it. Either way it doesn't look like the Makita plastic passes the impact test. I can understand your frustration.
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A good strip and sonic clean and a new set of diaphragms normally cures them for me. Talking of Diaphragms, what condition are they in? Although the metering Diaphragm might look ok, if it's gone stiff at all it'll affect the running.
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You could probably get a brand new Ariens Zoom, or perhaps Ariens Ikon for that sort of money. Might be worth checking them out.
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11 hours ago, aspenarb said:
Shame they dont make a cig lighter charger for them.
Perhaps a 12v - 240v inverter would do? Just don't leave it switched on when engine not running.
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19 minutes ago, Redkop1 said:
I try lots of times heating the housing up to get the inside pinion out with NO joy
Silly question. Did you undo the grub screw next to the grease bung, the one that holds it all in?
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23 hours ago, outonalimb said:
A very good reason for not buying a Cobra chainsaw I would have thought if build quality will not allow it to run at 50:1,
Probably, but one of many reasons imo.
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27 minutes ago, lurkalot said:
I noticed that as well which is what reminded me to ask the question. Ironically that site gives away a free 100ml two stroke oil, and a 5ltr can with it.
Just to correct what I said. They give away a free 100ml two stoke oil with it. The five litre can comes included in the starter kit they supply for it, with 100ml oil. Either way that's 50:1 not the recommended 40:1
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2 minutes ago, Paul in the woods said:
I noticed that as well which is what reminded me to ask the question. Ironically that site gives away a free 100ml two stroke oil, and a 5ltr can with it.
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Sorry, that was silly of me.
Cobra. I believe it's only a couple of products in their range, the Cobra CS620-20 chainsaw being one of them.
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I saw the first manufacturer who started throwing out the warranty if using Alkylate based fuel mixes (e.g. Aspen). Stating their saws need a 40:1 mix. Just wondering if there's any other manufacturers out there doing the same. Anyone else experienced this?
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30 minutes ago, spudulike said:
It has one of the aluminium alloy pruning saw heads on it.
Thanks, it threw me a bit when you mentioned the trimmer and cutter attachments that's all. We're good now. I was curious if it was one of the original pruner heads, or the new type.
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1 hour ago, spudulike said:
New type head? Is that the plastic trimmer attachment that you are not supposed to use on these poles? It has been used with a trimmer attachment but came with the cutter attachment
Sorry, I thought you were referring to a telescopic pole saw.
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1 hour ago, spudulike said:
No, it has a sheared shaft and needs replacing. Also been working on my Mordaunt Short Sub today, bloody thing keeps farting and popping with no input going in. Found a wire that had sheared on the PCB and now sounds like it should with no pops. Will set up on a bit or ACDC live tonight and see how it goes.....neighbours should enjoy it
Those shafts are nice to do when they get stuck solid, lol.. Has it got the new type head on it?
AC-DC now you're talking, can't beat it.
MS260 back from the repair shop... not working
in Chainsaws
Posted
Well they did succeed in lightening el bartos's wallet.