lurkalot

If staying with a long handled, the ECHO HCA-265ES would probably get my vote.

Possibly down on compression hence why it doesn't like the decomp being used, and the fact that it doesn't tick over.  Seems a likely scenario to me.  

Even a extremely knackered saw will run fine flat out, providing you can get the thing started in the first place,  Engine will fade when you get anywhere near tick over.

33 minutes ago, GardenKit said:

And.........the quality of steel in the Izzy is terrible. They rust through faster than any other mower I have ever serviced. I have had one rust out in only 6 years.

It's a pity because they 're actually  quite a nice mower when  new.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Dr 

Usually around ten years the whole front end falls off, complete with wheels, at least it did on the first ones.

Alright "when new", yes I guess they do look ok. ;)

Some of my old pics.

7 hours ago, GardenKit said:

The Honda GC engines as fitted to the Izzy and many other makes of mower are highly thought of by many. I get many customers who will only buy Honda but in reality the GC engine is really no better than the Briggs alternative.

 

In fact the Honda GC is very fussy on spark plugs and carburation, as well as diabolical choke/cable setting on the older manual choke versions.

 

The more expensive GX engines are however brilliant and probably responsible for the great reputation that Honda engines have.

Agreed, people get sucked into a brand which used to build good quality stuff, but don't realise they not buying the same thing any more.  Honda are notorious for doing this, though they're not the only ones who are guilty.

To me, the Honda IZY has always been well overpriced, it's just a tin decked machine with a cheap engine on it.  .The latest ones fitted with even cheaper quality components, the plastic wheel bushes (pictured below) for example, instead of the ball bearings they used to have.  They collapse if you sneeze on them now.  Luckily the old ball bearings still fit the new wheels so they can be converted.  Shouldn't have to do this though. 

The choke linkage always was a mare, and don't get me started on the carbs.

New type plastic wheel bushes with middles broken out. 

1 hour ago, GardenKit said:

Before you get too carried away just got a new plug. These engines can eat plugs and backfiring is a classic symptom of plug failure.

I thought I read a new plug was fitted, but reading back it was just cleaned (Specsavers). 

I totally agree the new plug is the first step in this situation, these engines are extremely fussy when it comes to plugs.

9 hours ago, Garfield said:

I have a Honda Izzy 5.5hp which I bought new looking at the plate 2004.Ran fine for 3 years then started cutting out after 5mins use.Back in the shed it went and started using older mower Mounfield with Honda engine.GV100.Put a second hand ignition coil on couple of years ago to keep it running but it has died now.Back to the Honda izzy we went and started first pull.Used about three times and started chugging and then packed up.Plug all sooted up so cleaned it and off went.Ten minutes on cut out and all sooted up again.Messed with screws,new plug etc and started again and now chugging and big back firing shooting flames.Switched off and now any idea's would be very much appreciated.I was going to have the carb off next and give it a check over.Thanks for looking.

Just curious.   Check the tappet cover on the front of the engine isn't dented in.  If it is, it can hold a valve open slightly, causing backfiring and difficult starting.  Obvious stuff re sooting up., blocked air filter, choke sticking, carb flooding.

24 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Here is what I mean, one well used MS200T, don't think it has ever been cleaned, another face full of grease and chip Before and after images!

Nice job on the cleaning there Spud.  Must have been running a tad hot. Unusual to see one with the silencer is still attached, or hasn't fallen apart.

Possible crankcase gasket failure, that would let the oil from the oil tank to get straight into the crankcase http://www.motoculture-jean.fr/upload/pdf/050_051.pdf

When you say clutch has gone, you mean driving all the time, or not driving at all? 

Probably find the clutch shoes are seized on their bushes, and stuck out against the clutch drum.  That will make the front hosing pretty tricky to get off.  It will eventually with much wiggling and a bit of persuasion .

Clutch drum bearings have been known to seize, part number 9503 003 7450 or from a bearing factor 6203 -2rs

Clutch springs x2 part number 0000 997 5519

Pretty sure it didn't stipulate what the subject the website had to be, so I'll post one of them up anyway.  It might come in handy for anyone who has SMF running as a support forum for their Arb services.  We develop a portal add on for SMF, and is a great way to add blocks and pages to what would be a basic forum.

Tinyportal A powerful CMS for SMF.

Welch plug fallen out in carb, (pretty common), metering needle sticking, or diaphragm(s) has a leak.  Could be any of those things to be honest.

I used the tapatalk app for a while for my sites, but found it pretty unreliable, always screwed up things when they updated it.  Stopped using it a couple or years ago, and made sites as mobile friendly as I could without relying on a third party app.   It's extremely difficult to cater for everyone, and every device, or browser though,

Mc Culloch PM 370 perhaps?

3 hours ago, Daniël Bos said:

They're fine.

Wobbling about like a jelly only happens when you put pressure on, which you wouldn't.

 

I've used my 180 for 10 years or so now with a carving bar, and it's still more than my artistic abilities need...

That I can understand, because a 180 is nothing like a 181.  When it comes to moving about, the 180 is on rubbers, and the 181 on silly stretchy bouncy springs.

I'm no expert on carving, but isn't the MS181 a bit too Un-controllable for this type of work?  They wobble about like a jelly on those anti vibe springs.  I would have thought it would be difficult to use in this situation especially going anywhere near the tip of the bar.

Just thinking aloud. 

20 hours ago, spudulike said:

Ooopps,

lol..   No problem. 

Anyway here's the part number of the drive adaptor mentioned above, 4810 710 7600  Hope this helps.

14 minutes ago, spudulike said:

Probably the clutch shoes are corroded and stuck on their bushes. Strip, drive the bushes out, clean lubricate and reassemble. I am not familiar with the model but am assuming it is similar to other models!

Spud, the HLE71 is a electric machine and doesn't have a clutch.

There's a plastic sleeve (or adaptor) pressed on to the end of the motor shaft, this connects to the drive shaft.  It has a square on one end to connect to the drive shaft, the other end is a round hole pressed over the splined motor shaft.  These tend to slip, or tare out completely.  There is a modified version of this adaptor, which you should get as standard if you order a one.

I'm betting this is your problem, as I've changed a few of them.

For the hydrostatic unit, it should be BP Vanellus M20W, BP Energol HLP22 or equivalent. 

And for the Transaxle, should be SAE EP90 Transmission Oil

Just now, Steve Bullman said:

i'll looking into it...im sure it shouldnt lock out after just 1 try

Thanks.

New layout will take a bit of getting used to.  I forgot my password and tried to log in, got it wrong only once (I think) and it locked me out.  Had to wait 15 minutes before it would let me try again.  The password reset email never has arrived but luckily I got my password right the second time.