lurkalot

12 hours ago, littlelionlee88 said:

I get a variety of saws on my bench and here's a nice easy one to start the day. Little ms150t. Sheared flywheel key.

A rather expensive flywheel key.

6 hours ago, Guss109 said:

I have the toro time master I think. It’s amazing when the grass is dry but damp or wet forgot it

Has yours got the high lift blades on it? If not give those a try, it'll make a huge difference to the collection.

8 hours ago, Vespasian said:

Oh so you can get a mod kit for it, I'll see how much they are and see if its worth it.. as it is I've sort got use to it.. so it might depend on how much it is..  

Actually I think the mod kit was because they changed the cable design, and had to have a new lever to match, might have been on the 536.  But same applies, check the cable is running free, and the return spring on the gearbox control arm is doing its job properly.  And make sure you have both springs fitted to the upper control linkage on the handles.

3 hours ago, Vespasian said:

The clutch has gone on mine mind, you have to lift it up at the back to pull it backwards...   apparently it'd cost as much to fix as buy another..

 

There is no clutch, it's a hydro box. You sure its not just the return spring on the gearbox control arm that has failed?  Quite common, and they modified them at some point for this reason.  So if you replace it, it'll probably come as a mod kit containing new spring, arm, and pin,

5 hours ago, harrythecat178 said:

Best idea is a new short block, contact your local Briggs dealer for a price

Agreed, providing everything else is ok, heads, carb, starter motor etc.  That would be the way to go.

Standard Loctite generally releases when heated, so won't work on anything hot.  Perhaps try using some shakeproof washers instead.  Or if you can get them in there, use something like the Stihl screws with the serrated heads, they will bite into the exhaust and stop them coming loose.

Just out of interest, what's happened to your old one? Thrown a rod or something?

They're obviously not allowed to use the word "Bodge" in the manual.    In most cases it will work which is why I suggested it, but B&S will tell you it won't always work.   If it's really bad you could get your local engine preconditioner to install a new seat properly.

Remember this was for an old seat which has been moving about in the block for a while, not a new replacement seat.

Logo is missing, top left.

Says page size for home page is,

18 minutes ago, bmp01 said:

The thing is the oil filter is more of a rock catcher than a filter. And the stupid flippy cap filler hole -  is designed to catch (and trap) saw chips - its pretty difficult to imagine any oil pump having a long happy life. At least on the 170 / 180 you have an oil cap that covers the filler hole..... 

Yep, it's really a strainer not a filter.  Those locking bayonet caps are a complete mare, one of the worst moves they made imo, plus when you drop the tethered cap down the front of the saw it picks up the crap from the front of the machine then dumps it straight in the oil tank when you refit it.  I've repaired hundreds of these saws over the years, but I can count the number of new pumps I've had to fit on one hand.

Oil pump in the 170 / 180  is the exact same pump as the 171  / 181 only difference is the latter suffers with oil pipe leaking like a b,stard. The 170 / 180 does suffer with oiling problems, blowing bubbles etc, but to be honest can normally be fixed by replacing the oil hose, even if it looks ok. (assuming the rest of the oil sys is clean of course).

180 / 181 has a proper chain instead of the orible skinny one fitted to the 170 /171. 

Spose it could be worse.

Yep, just prise them out with a small screwdriver or similar.

And now.  Traveling Wilburys - End Of The Line

The Traveling Wilburys - Handle With Care
 

4mm line will kill your FS90.  Why not just get a PolyCut head and a pack of spare blades.

2 hours ago, Lea said:

I can try and take a picture of the underneath for you if that would be of any help  

You're ok, I know what it looks like. 

Ideally the whole roller frame including the roller will have to come out to do this job, but it might be more than just replacing the chain.  The roller runs on bronze bushes which normally don't see a lot of lube, and this results in a lot of ware on bushes, but more drastically the shaft itself.  Any ply in the shaft will make the chain go really loose and jam up as tries to jump the teeth, or come off. 

It might be wise to remove the air filter and then tip the machine on to its R/H side (looking from behind), then check to see if you have loads of movement in the roller (Forwards and backwards, not end to end). 

Regardless of oil used, the 200T did seem to have more grunt than the 201T. 

What I don't get, the guy said all saws with model number ending in 1 (xx1)should use SynthPlus, and as far as I'm aware they haven't really changed the oiling system from the older models, so why do they suddenly need different chain oil. 

All this video tells me is, they have either dropped the power on the new models, or made the oil pump even crappier than before. (or both).

12 hours ago, Lea said:

Help please .... I have hayter Harrier 48 pro and the chain keeps falling off.  Can you tell me how to remove/drop the rear solid roller so I can put a new chain on. Or is there another reason why this would keep happening.  

6 hours ago, Steve Bullman said:

Or you can just wait patiently till he or someone else has the time to pop ok and give free advice

Lea,  just to help us help you, can you tell us if its a 480 or a 490 series please?  Reason I ask is because they are completely different in build, and need different methods to do what you ask.  If you could possibly grab the model number off the silver sticker on the back of the machine it would be helpful.

11 hours ago, openspaceman said:

The brazing is like a shear pin, it protects the more expensive bits.

No, it just fails when it shouldn't 

2 hours ago, spudulike said:

Just split the clutch/gearbox drive part from the engine and you may find that the drum has sheared from the sprocket

As  it turned out to be a HS86R that will definitely be the problem, it uses the same drum as a HS81R and I have a pile of them which have come apart, it's a really crappy joint by Stihl, although they won't admit it.

To be fair, the HS45 is a domestic machine for occasional use around the garden, not for professional use.  It's ok for what it's designed for.

51 minutes ago, Vespasian said:

took it apart today to see if I might find somethin obvious and the rotor that drives all the gubbins to move the blades ain't workin..

What part exactly?  Do you mean the Spur Gear (larger of the two gears) ?  Has the shaft it runs on sheared off?  I ask because I've had a few do this.  Also, this might sound daft, but some HS45's have a blade brake (Plastic lever on side of gearbox0, and some don't, so make sure the brake is off.

Apologies in advance, I'm a bit of a Lizzy fan. ;)

Gary Moore - Whiskey in the Jar (Tribute to Phil Lynott)