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Stuart Picken

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    getting outside! mountaineering, rock climbing, hill running, ecology and the 'green movement'

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  1. Hi folks, Anyone want to take a punt at this fungi? Not a good sample, but that's what there was! Dry, no real smell (but then i'm not long over covid, so maybe there was actually...), about 1m up the stem. Found on a horse chestnut that is in pretty catastrophic decline. Still a decent amount of healthy looking canopy, but with very large areas of necrotic bark and some big chunks of deadwood.
  2. Hi Folks, Thinking about root protection areas. I was on a site yesterday looking at some trees that were sandwiched between a field and a road. Unfortunately I forgot to snap a photo, so i've done a wee dooble. Hopefully it's clear enough. So my wondering is, in a case like this where do the roots go? The arable field has clearly been plowed in the recent past. Would it be fair to guess that the roots are confined to the raised dyke, and under the ditch? And if people were carrying out a BS 5837 for example, would you restrict the RPA accordingly? Let me know what folk think!
  3. https://www.forestresearch.gov.uk/documents/6579/FCBU112.pdf Very good short book on planting new native woodlands. Stongly suggest having a quick read. I know i'm digging up an old topic - how are things coming along? Just a thought in terms of species selection: I know most people seem to be saying plant a huge variety of species, but i'd suggest you should look into the 'native vegetation classification' and identify an appropriate type for the site, and select species out of that. You'd be aiming to identify the appropriate local natural habitat, and recreate that. I don't know anything about your part of the world though, so i'm not going to weigh in with suggestions! Also, I know there's lots of talk about mulches - they're not really necessary but greater labour but mulches down at the start can save weeding costs later on. That's the main thing they're offering. Otherwise expect weeding via spray or hand weeding. I know you've no deer or rabbits. But voles are likely in your site? If there's any i would suggest putting short vole guards on your trees. Also, consider putting a wee cane next to each one to ease weeding later on. Finally preparation, just churning up the soil with a spade for 10cm around the plant is worth doing. Expect to come back and weed though.
  4. Competent tree surgeon/chainsaw operator seeking weekend work in Inverness/north of Scotland. Experienced climber, all own climbing kit and saws. Hard working, takes care of kit, gets on well with clients/team members. Late twenties. Currently undertaking HND forestry. I'd be particularly interested to speak to any forestry contractors. Cs30,31,38,39,40. Utilities up 2.3, mewp, chipper. Drives, no trailer liscence. Got a wee caravan, can travel. (Before someone says something, it's under 750kg) 07772435486 [email protected] Emails better to start with
  5. I did wonder if was a carb thing. I remembered another symptom. While it's warming up it stalls easily if you turn it on its side/upside down.
  6. Hey folks. So I've a t540, only about 6 months old but definitely worked hard. Only thing (besides the everyday stuff) ive done with it is replace the fuel tank/handle a few months back when I cracked it. I've noticed in the last 2 weeks it's got Much harder to start working. It won't idle until I've slowly run it up to running flat out. Other wise it just stalls out idling, or if I put it into a cut the revs will drop right down and stall. Basically it needs an extra long warm up. I know this is just saws aging, but what should I be looking at? Something must be different because its a big change in the last couple weeks! Still work with it, it's just annoying. Cheers folks.
  7. Right, important bit: tell us about the boat mate! Canal boat?
  8. Well I've got plenty of saws and all that, it's just they're my work saws and I don't want to start milling with them. Yea, the thing to do is to pick up a cheap saw and just crack on with a milling jig. I suppose I was just looking for a way to do it with what I've got. I do think a better ripping blade on the tablesaw would make a difference. You can pick up one of these 80cc makitas for £500. Just wanted a rant really!
  9. Well folks, I love ma woodworking. And I bought an old sailing boat a couple years ago so I've a mountain of projects. Always wanted to get a milling set up, can't justify it though. No space to store, to dry to sell bla bla bla. So I tried this set up in the picture below. Basically screw the piece into a jig that has 2 flat faces, run it through a tablesaw. Max size would be about 10cm square by a meter, useful size that. Sounds easy enough. It's a bastard. Did a bit tonight, it's utterly backbreaking, fiddly and slow. And I blew the fuse in my shite tablesaw. Back to the drawing board. Anywhere, here's a couple of pictures of some rowan.
  10. 1.12 in. I'm sure that lump crashes straight into the deck, they just cut away. Looks a bit like it!
  11. 'happier than a gypsy's dog with two cocks'
  12. Another vote for the Stihl saws. No specifics, just a satisfied customer
  13. Ok give up the goods. Where Europe? I'm a decent climber and in another few years I'll be a damn good one. Do you get 400 a day in the same places you get cheap land and property, lax planning laws, sausage meat, 200 days of sun and a 9 month growing season? Because you know, that would spell out most of a life plan. I'm in Italy (holiday, not work)at the minute, and there loads of abandoned old houses and chestnut woods, go for pennies perhaps.
  14. At 6.4 and 17 stone I strongly reject than nonsense about the wee bastards being the cream.
  15. Ok serious question: why does nobody use the nasty blue polypropylene line? 14mm thick an your starting to get reasonable SWL. I do quite a bit of natural crotch rigging and I reckon im going to buy some of this stuff and give it a shot. At the price don't need to worry about beating the crap out of it! £75 for 200m, SWL 800kg

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