Blah

Turns out one end is not 3/8 BSP, it's metric M18 x 1.5. I can see why the fittings are mismatched now. No one makes a coupler that is 1/2BSP on one end and M18 x 1.5 bulkhead fitting on the other end. More stuff ordered.

Sort of answered my own question there, by getting some spanners out and taking the fittings apart. Turns out one end is 3/8" BSP and the other (grab) end is 1/2" BSP. I think. And, in case it helps someone else, these fittings are all female; at one end (bottom of the picture) on mine there's a male to male adapter. Ordered some stuff. See if it fits.

Right, so coming back to this, my hydraulic couplings haven't got any easier. I can see some writing stamped on some of these parts: DNP PLT 4 ISO10M - M19 ITALY and DNP PLT4 ISO10F - I19 ITALY. What's confusing is that the two sides don't look the same. This might be because my grab isn't a standard part; it was fabbed up to fit my Sherpa from an Intermercato grab by the previous owner. I'm looking at buying Manuli Female Half Only 3/8" BSP 3/8" Size Quick Release Coupling WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Overview: The Manuli Female Half Only 3/8" BSP Quick Release Coupling is a genuine Manuli part for reliable fluid transfer in hydraulic and pneumatic circuits. Built from... and Manuli Female Half Only 3/8" BSP 3/8" Size Quick Release Coupling WWW.LSENGINEERS.CO.UK Overview: The Manuli Female Half Only 3/8" BSP Quick Release Coupling is a genuine Manuli part for reliable fluid transfer in hydraulic and pneumatic circuits. Built from... Anybody care to comment on whether they will or will not do the job? What's going at the black bracket end there? Is that a different part I will need to replace as well? Also @doobin and other Sherpa owners, does this look familiar or are your couplings different?

If you mean the battery version, I've replaced the micro switch. It's really not that involved. Turns out mine was just a bit dirty and just needed a wipe, though I still replaced it with the new one as I had it all apart.

Some idea of price would be informative

Whatever you do, don't buy arbortec heavy duty breathedry jacket. It's shite, and takes forever to dry. I too bought a couple of Regatta hi vis jackets in the sale. For the price, they're OK. I bring four waterproof jackets to work, if one's wetted out, I just change into the next one. Not sure I could justify spending Karona money, for something that is not bramble / silky / wild rose proof.

Didn't work for me. I'm going to try changing the connectors I think.

I made a version of those quick grips. Still struggling to build up enough force to connect. My conclusion that relieving the pressure, as opposed to fighting the pressure, is the way forward.

Completely bewildering, the world of hydraulic sizing and standards. Looks like some of these connectors are designed to be connected under (some) pressure. For example: https://www.holmbury.com/product/hcp-series/. I wonder if that might help us @doobin

Not just me then, as I'm also on a Sherpa 100 - well remembered. Changing to Hombury quick connectors... what's involved? Replace the whole hose, or just the connector bit? What do I need to know about sizes to purchase?

Anybody else finding connecting the aux hydraulic lines an absolute pig? I can't ever get the "quick release" hydraulic connectors to connect up by hand, guessing pressure build up through temperature variation. I almost always have to do unspanner the hydraulic connector to let pressure out to get the grab lines connected. Which is a pain and makes a mess. Any tips?

Generally 8:30 start, looking to leave around 3-3:30. It's unusual for us to leave after 4. Generally less than 30mins to site.

There is a drain plug on the front of the tank. It takes a lot of oil mind, best make sure you're pan is big enough.

Different situation as I'm on day rate, but if we're working more than 45mins away, there's a bit of extra cash to cover the extra time.

We almost always turn up with three anyway as we're all coming from different directions, dogs, tools and places to be after. It suits us; one tows the tipper trailer, one tows the chipper and one tows the Sherpa.

Our solution to this is running a 4x4 and a tipper ifor. That carries 2.5ton of chip or wood legally.

Literally all the time. I'm in Bath though, and every garden is on a slope.

The welds have started cracking. Both.

This is how I got going with SRT.

We recently replaced an older non-pro 12ft version with a pro version. The old one was much lighter and wore out. The new one is beefier, and should therefore last longer. I don't know about beef levels on the new non-pro version.

In case it's useful to someone else; mine's that one too.

My Sherpa manual says every 200 hours or half-yearly. Either way, I bought the machine second-hand. I figure it can't hurt to replace, then guesstimate 200 hours from there. Thanks for checking the filter type! Airline powered vacuum extractor... like this? KATSU Manual Pneumatic Oil Extractor Pump 6.5 L Fluid Evacuator Motor Engine Oil Change Petrol Fuel Transfer Vacuum Suction Pump with 4 Probes for Cars Motorbikes Marine : Amazon.co.uk: Automotive WWW.AMAZON.CO.UK KATSU Manual Pneumatic Oil Extractor Pump 6.5 L Fluid Evacuator Motor Engine Oil Change Petrol Fuel Transfer Vacuum Suction Pump with 4 Probes for Cars Motorbikes... I have an airline, £54 sounds like a bargain compared to tidying up the almighty mess.

Also really depends on if you have an attachment on, and which one. I load mine forward on an ifor flatbed trailer with 8' ramps. I stand on the back more often than not. Sometimes raise the grapple to move the weight further out and make it more front heavy. I would only contemplate reversing it up without an attachment on.

Back to oil change on the Sherpa. Anybody work out a good method to catch the oil out of the drain plug (which sits literally about a fag paper above the Sherpa floor) without making an almighty mess and half the oil going underneath the counterweight? Obvs the counterweight is heavy and an arse to remove. Also, what's the spec of the hydraulic filter that wants replacing every 6 months according to the manual? And where to get one?

Oil change on the Sherpa Agri... The Sherpa manual gives almost no detail on engine oil change other than that it obvs needs it. The GX390 Honda manual talks about engine oil and reduction case oil. The Sherpa manual doesn't mention reduction case oil. The engine itself has what looks like two drain plugs either side of the engine, one of which is unusable because it's so close to the red sherpa bodywork. It also has two oil level access points, again on either side of the crank case. One is alu, and has a dipstick, the other black plastic without dipstick. I drained the oil, and filled it to halfway up the dipstick on the alu filler. I'm assuming that's right, and there is no reduction case to worry about? Also, 10W30 as per Honda manual or 10W40 as per Sherpa manual? Does it even matter?