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Old Lands

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  1. kerryp what size is your oak and does it still need cutting? I have a Peterson WPF and can get to Carmarthen easily enough.
  2. If you don't mind me asking, what are you intending to do with the Lumbermate, would you be selling it?
  3.  

    <p>Hi Kav,</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Simon here with the Lucas mill (sold!) over by Monmouth......just wondering about timber trailers and remembered you had one from Killworths. How you getting on with it, any good/bad points?</p>

    <p> </p>

    <p>Cheers, Simon</p>

     

  4. What tractor and size trailer is that then HertsWood? It looks a good fit.
  5. Didn't that one sell last year from somewhere in Powys, this time round it's in Barnsley. Loads of scams like this on eBay, I suppose they hope someone will pay up front without inspecting it and for it to be 'delivered'?
  6. Thanks for letting us know how the trailer is going. My experience with quads is similar, I've always taken it is because they are light in weight and not designed to have much of a footprint, so towing any weight will be awkward unless mostly flat/dry/smooth. It's surprising what they will shift though, I've used a 750 Kingquad with a log arch and moved 16" 12' logs with ease. Getting going on the flat and then hitting the rough stuff or gradient is as you say often the key.
  7. Another vote for Unipower. They also have online parts diagrams.
  8. Let us all know how you get on with it fen. Whereabouts in the Forest are you?
  9. [ame] [/ame] Another similar trailer being used. I wonder what he would have shifted without his mate and the winch?
  10. Is there any reason why you want it moved back to your yard? You'd be paying twice, for transport and milling. If you can get it level (ish) and there is an access then I would mill in situ. That's what mobile mills are made for.
  11. Having spent 6/7 years in the past helping work a manual bandsaw mill in the same colour orange there is little that he says that I would disagree with. Great for occasional milling or for specific jobs, and if you are fit or have help/machinery, anything more serious or for big logs then there are better ways of doing it.
  12. They do pack down well, after the long rails (which are long) it's really just the trolley and winch frames. Value wise I'd be looking at hours on the engine and its condition, as well as the gearbox - has this been looked after and has it been stored with the blade cutting vertically? Also what of the service items (rollers, belts etc) need replacing, wear on the trolley frame esp. where the lock clamps on the underside and wear on the profiled edge that the rollers of the engine frame ride along (both weak points of the Lucas design). Also wear/dinks on the profiled edge of the long rails and play in the winches. And spares as well. There's not that much to go wrong with them that can't be fixed or replaced. Without knowing this it's difficult to give an actual value, and they don't come up often to give comparisons. Hope this helps though.
  13. If it is of help to anyone I found that the National Parks Service in the States has published a good visual guide to timber framing techniques and it is available online. It is American obviously so it does vary from timber framing tradition in the UK but it is useful nevertheless. https://ncptt.nps.gov/blog/historic-american-timber-joinery-a-graphic-guide-i-tying-joints-tie-below-plate-2001-14/ Otherwise the 'Discovering Timber Framed Buildings' little book is one of the best starter guides for the subject.
  14. I've always been told and thought to put it up green. It's cladding so it's partly superficial anyway, I wouldn't worry about the odd bit of sapwood, plenty of cladding is put up waney edge anyway.

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