Thesnarlingbadger

Hi all, hope everyone is keeping well. I am looking for freelance climbers in the Bristol area. To keep up with the work load. We are a small/medium sized firm generally running two teams and have a mix of commercial and domestic work. I was expecting a lull in work during spring this year but it didn’t happen so have been playing catch up ever since. Work-wise you will work within a team with 2 other staff and will have a mixture of work with most of it involving large trees and site work. Happy to have people in for set or ad-hock days depending on preference. Happy to negotiate rates depending on experience and work ethic. But would like people to be honest with me about their actual experience and skill level as I do not want to put inexperienced people into a situation they are uncomfortable with. if you are in Bristol or the surrounding area feel free to get in touch with me. Best number to get me on is my mobile 07725 951006 and best to drop a text as I can miss calls if I’m out on the tools. Or email me [email protected] Cheers Eric (Woodstock Tree Services)

Hi Treeation, Thanks for this. Have you done any rigid bracing yourself? As mentioned I have in my 17/18 years of being in the industry never installed one although I have worked on and surveyed trees with ridged bracing already in place. I had a quick search on treesource and found the 3rd edition of the ISA proping and bracing for around £17 which I’d happily get if this is what you are on about. I also have a fairly substantial collection of other books with information on this which I studied during my L4. But if I were to take this course of action I’d like to get a little more knowledge from someone who has installed them previously. The trunk is free from rot and sounds solid with a quick tap of the mallet so I think I would have plenty of options as to where it could be installed. Thanks for your advice.

Hi Paul, Thanks for reply on this and clearing this up. I completely agree with the view of reducing the sail effect on the tree and by doing so will reduce the weight that the tree is holding. My main concern though is as the trunks of the tree grow out incrementally and put on more secondary growth there will be an issue at some point in the future regardless of the weight and sail taken out of the tree. As I said I’ve never considered a ridged brace for any tree before so it was not an idea that I took lightly. But you are right in the fact that the tree has been fine so far and by reducing the weight and sail it is only going to benefit the biomechanics working against the tree at present. A lot to consider with this one. Thank you for your input.

Hi Paul, Thank you. A phased reduction might just be the best option here as I know they are keen to retain it. Could I ask why you would not consider a a ridged brace for this one? I have never done one or advised one from a consultancy point of view but would actually consider one here. Purely for the fact no other brace would do any good. I must admit my ginkgo knowledge is fairly limited when it comes to forks and bi-co stems but my thought process is it has been fine up until now and why worry, however as mentioned previously I panic a little when children enter the equation. There has been no impact on the wall thus far so I am not worried about this partially but it is a conservation area so if the tree were to have a hissy fit and drop one side then the damage could be fairly costly. What are your thoughts on the fact there doesn’t seem to be any sign of included bark or a ridge to stabilise the two stems? Thanks for your input, much appreciated.

Hi Dan, it’s not a split that I can tell of it’s just two codominant stems that have been growing together from early on. My worry is the two stems have not formed a union and are going to end up pushing each other apart. Generally speaking the only Ginkos I see are singular stems and might have tight forks higher up which is why I am a little concerned with this one as there is a lot of weight and leverage above the base. If it was in the middle of a woodland of field I’d say leave it to its own devices but given the fact there are targets around I’m a little more concerned.

Thank you Matthew, that was my thoughts on the situation. I guess a reduction and a rigid brace will retain the tree for another 10 years or so but I can’t see it winning this battle. I’ll relay this to my customers. Thank you for your input on this.

No point in recording every tree for the purpose of a safety survey. I would just aim for the trees which have issues and are within falling distance of footpaths and other areas where the public are likely to be. If there are any trees of significance (rare species or exceptional quality) I’d mention them. I would likely take a couple cans of arb paint and mark the trees that require work (red for fells) and another colour for deadwooding, monoliths or branch removal etc. woodlands are always going to have a sheaf load of trees that would require work if they were in a children’s play area but the risk to half for the public in minimal if they are in a fence area of scrub.

Hi all, I’ve posted this in fungi pics because I couldn’t find a better topic under tree health care. I have been asked my thoughts on a customers ginkgo tree and I am a little torn with the advice I want to give them. The tree is a great feature to their garden and they are keen to retain which I would also agree with. However there are a couple of concerning features to the tree that worry me slightly. Firstly it is a co-dom stem which starts at ground level and separates at around 4m then the two stems also split in to other branches with very tight V shape unions. The tree has been there for 70 or so years (bit of a stab in the dark) I’d say and I have monitored it for the past 3/4 years with little change to its physical appearance. It have good vitality with a little bit of dead in the shaded inner crown which is to be expected. The tree was reduced by another company around 8 years ago and has reacted well to the reduction. Target wise there are listed walls and neighbours which could be affected if something were to happen and also the customers have young children which always puts me on the more cautious side of things when giving advise or doing reports. The other thing that I wasn’t 100% sure of is there seems to be white marks on the lower trunk which I would say is dead bits of bark unless there is a fungus I am completely unaware of. I have said a re-reduction back to old points and a gentle lift will allow more light through to their garden and reduce the wind sail affect on the tree but wouldn’t really address the tight union issue. The twin stems have not joined or formed ridges which does concern me but this may be typical of ginkos (I’m not sure). The other idea I have toyed with would be a ridged brace through the two steams although in 17 years in the industry I have never done or suggested this to anyone. But I can’t see a static or dynamic brace in the crown stopping the failure that may occur between the two stems. I was just looking for a bit of input from some others on this and see if I can come up with a solution to the issue. Photos below. Thanks in advance 👍

That’s great. Thank you. I have only heard bad things about turkey oak so I’ll let them know. To be honest I think it will end up as shit firewood. Milling is not my area of expertise I’m much better at the advise from the other end, when the tree is in the ground. Thanks for everyone’s help on this and if your based locally tree_beard I’ll let you know if they want it milled. Cheers 👍

You should have told him you couldn’t afford logs that don’t grow on trees like you rich lot stubby. It still amazes me how bloody thick people can be.

Agree with Mark. If the insurance company is refusing to go with professional advice presented to them then a court case may be in the future. I would keep note of advice, timelines and anything else. As insurance companies will always try and worm out of things. If root barriers are not advised on grounds it could have an adverse effect on the trees health/stability then they should be listening tho this advise. If they are not then they could be liable if there is a future issue.

Not sure. As I said I’m only going on what I have been told. I have reported back and am just waiting to her what they say. It might be that they want it billed up for themselves. So on that possible assumption would anyone in the area have a mobile mill? And what sort of prices would they be looking at for milling in to planks. I know there are a lot of fractures to consider but what would people be charging for a day with a mobile saw mill. Access is wide enough for a standard tipper van with around a foot to spare. Cheers people

Thanks for the info guys. I thought this might be the case. I can’t say what the exact species was as it was stone dead when I saw it originally about 2 years ago. The client assured me it had been dead since 2010. We felled the tree and the reason for the awful felling cut was because I had to cut in both sides with a 66 from about 10ft up (above the completely rotten base) of a set of tripod ladders to avoid a power line. I’ve popped some photos of the base of the tree below. I’ll let them know. They seemed adamant that because it was oak it was worth a fortune and I said it was not my area of expertise but I would ask. Thanks again for the input. Always very helpful. Cheers Eric

Hi people, sorry this is on the panther milling page (couldn’t seem to fine a more appropriate place). We felled an oak dead oak back in November last year. The oak had been dead 15 years and was somehow still standing. Completely straight and I have left a length 14.3m long 1.1m at the base end and 70cm at the top end. Would anyone be interested in the timber? My customers would like to make some money from this so it would be best offer. Access is slightly limited with a gate wide enough for a standard van (unlikely be able to get a tractor through). It is in Stanton drew south Bristol. Pictures below. If anyone is interested let me know. Cheers Eric

We have been doubting stacks of ADB in the south west inverse the last few years. I’m always a little wary of ash with ADB as I have found some looked knacked and are completely fine to climb and I have been up some which look relatively healthy and have had big snap outs when branch walking. When they are ****************ed they really are like polystyrene and I can honestly say they is know way of knowing until you start climbing and cutting. If you are anchored into a stem 150mm or above you should be fine. But just take note of how the snipes feel when you go up. Looking at the tree I would climb it. But might be worth giving your customer 2 prices and trying for the cheaper climb option first. Might be a wasted hour in the morning if you realise it can’t be climbed but at least h t ey would be prepared for the more expensive scenario.

Ahh thanks for the reply’s. Yeah it’s been topped before. I will go with what customer wants but would be nice to try and leave half a shape in it if I can. Think the poles might have to come out for some of the lower limbs. 😳 Cheers guys

Sorry about the MIA, been spinning plates all bloody week. Thank you Mick I think you have whacked the screw on the noggin. To be honest I’ve beaver come across one in my life. The next question is (and I’ve got a sneaking suspicion what the response may be) can you hack these trees back. The customer has asked if it can be pollarded. I have said I have no idea but will find out. The tree has been heavily topped in the past by a previous homeowner. But to me it would feel like a real shame to leave a rare (to my area) tree slapped back to stubs. Thank you. Always a useful wealth of wisdom.

Thanks stubby, a couple more pics of the branches I grabbed when I was there quoting might shed some light. Thank you.

Thank you. I’d be surprised to have seen an elm this size but thought it may be a certain species I haven’t seen before. Been going through all my identification books and the net but still not sure. Driving me nuts.

Hi all, I have looked at a job and am still uncertain of the tree. The ack is I have only seen the tree in winter and have a couple of hazy picture of the tree I. Summer time from the client. I’ve been doing this job for 17 years now and have only ever worked on dead or young elms. At first I thought Salix caprea, then thought nope that’s not right. So I was thinking wingnut once the customer sent a photo through. Someone else who looked at the job said elm straight away but the customer was unsure. No TPO in place so can’t find the tree on records anywhere. Anywho I wondered if I could get a distinctive answer for some of the let’s say more experienced lot on here. Pictures below. Sorry not a huge amount to go on. Thank you as always albtalkers.

If you put the body in the rungs of a set of ladders on a van roof and have a ratchet strap over them I can’t see them going anywhere. But I would say you are basically advertising a bit of kit to our five finger discount friends by displaying them on show.

I would assume 206 still applies. Same as if a TPO’d tree dies a replacement should be planted within 5m of the original the next growing season once the tree is removed.

I always make sure it’s clear ahead drop down to 2nd or 1st and keep a steady 15/20mph. Never failed me yet but famous last words and all that. Drove through one last week in the pickup and was thinking halfway through that I might have made a big cock up but the hilux palled through. Saw a mini going the other way and committed. Didn’t see the outcome but it was up above my tyres so he probably went for a swim.

Hi Dan, That’s great thank you. I think openspaceman is right it all seems to match up with what I have. Cheers

Although I have never seen it in flower. Is flowering a short period?