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jfc

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Everything posted by jfc

  1. Not had that but the PL and NPTC certs seem reasonable, as it is on his property. References seems a bit OTT (presumably he is not paying for the work). Is it very near his property/has he got good reason to be nervous? All the best with it.
  2. I couldn't get past the my details page (I had to submit a us/canada state even though I am UK based). Kept refusing to let me continue - without filling in State. So in the end I had to put in a state - just picked the first one Alabama!
  3. Oldwoodcutter - thanks for trying to ID it, but the bark isn't red like that. Will try and get some more pics.
  4. Never heard of wind-firming before - will look it up, sounds like it could be a goer. The tree appears healthy, but it is big still reckin 100ft and much bigger than any other tree round it. It is pretty exposed on a hillside open to westerly gales. I guess the reason they are worried about it is that 2 tree have blown over in that area in the last 5 years. One was a diseased Beech and a leylandii, so the owners have seen other tree go and are worried about this one. The owner thought it ws TPO'd, which was going to limit my options a bit, but it doesn't appear to be when I checked, so I will go have a chat and see what they want done. cheers.
  5. So we have a couple of folk saying leave or fell it and one for reduce the co-dom 20ft, and one for do whatever the client wants. I guess if i do reduce it and it does blow over (onto the house) then I am at risk to litigation.
  6. I questioned whether taking one of the co-dominant leaders out would cause as many problems as topping it. They don't really want it felled just less of a risk to neighbours. I wondered it taking off one of the tops would reduce the windsail and make it less likely to blow over.
  7. Here's a pic of the leaves. Single stem is the underside.
  8. Hi folks, I have been asked to reduce this tree, as the owner is worried that if it did blow over it would hit a neighbours house. It is big about 100ft, I have struggled to identify it (as I can find any cones), ?Douglas Fir. The owner has asked me to top it (which I'm not going to do)! The only other option I see would be to take off one of the co-dominant leaders, but would that cause almost as many problems as topping it? Any other suggestions gratefully received. Cheers jfc.
  9. I can't believe I am the first one to say this but... I never needed any assistance 'pulling', however I am married now so those days are over! Used 2:1 quite a bit. I had never used 2 friction knots. I like the idea of having one at the anchor end to allow you to reset the knot on the pull line. Thanks for the videos.
  10. Stubby - gets 10 points for 1st correct answer:thumbup:, (took it to the repair shop - impulse line had become detached).
  11. Thanks folks for the advice. I am not very mechanically minded:confused1: so apart from the clutch springs most of what was suggested is a bit beyond my knowledge, so it confirmed I needed to send it in for repair. It was definitely idling fast, and wasn't stalling when chain brake was on. It was useful knowing it was unlikely to be anything really simple! Fingers crossed it isn't terminal. Cheers.
  12. Cheers guys , both those sound like a trip to the repair shop, but I will check the springs. I love that saw so hope it's not terminal/financially not viable repair. jan.
  13. Hi folks, I was dismantling a tree yesterday when my Stihl 200 cut out, when restarted the chain was running constantly with the chain brake off. Also seemed to be ticking over very fast. This all happened mid-air without altering any settings on the saw. I came down the tree, took off the side cover and cleaned all round the chain break etc but still idling fast and chain running as soon as the brake was off. Any suggestions as to what's wrong, before I take it in to the local repair shop? Thanks.
  14. I developed Carpal Tunnel Sydrome last year. Had numbness/pins and needles in my hands (all fingers except pinkie), which made fine skills difficult. It also woke me at night with pins and needles. It is caused by a trapped nerve in your wrist. I had an op just before xmas and it has cured it for me. As other have said go see your GP.
  15. Thanks for all the comments. Interesting that only microscopy can definitively ID a species. I will go back and see the tree again (and take a photo of its location) in relation to the footpath. I am thinking that if it too close then I may have to suggest the client gets a tree report done, as I am not qualified/insured to give that kind of risk assessment advice. Any idea roughly of the costs of a tree report for a single tree? jan.
  16. Ali -Thanks for the help with the i.d. Kveldssanger -That's very useful info. I will try sounding it. It is in a garden but near a footpath, I can have another look at it and do a bit of a risk assessment. I wouldn't want to fell it unless absolutely necessasry, as the client seems really keen on the tree too.
  17. Hi, I have been asked to prune a large, very old (100yr+) flowering cherry, however I noticed these fruiting bodies at the base of the tree. Please find photos attached. The fruiting bodies were about the width of my fist. I have a fungi photo guide and my guess is that they may be Ganoderma pfeifferi , but that is based soley on it looking a bit like them. I would be very grateful of any advice as to exactly what species they may be and the likely effect this will have on the tree. Thanks. jan.
  18. Hi Matty, Sorry i have been so slow replying been really busy. Thanks for the advice, so reduce the laterals off that stem a lot to reduce the load bearing on the diseased stem, makes sense to me. This will help when/if the Tree Officer becomes involved. Jan.
  19. Thanks for your input matty. So by massively reducing the stem do you mean to below the diseased area? There's not much below it to make it viable, as the laterals below it are the ones that go directly over the garage. However I will look at it again and see if there are any viable reduction points. I had mentioned a crown reduction to the client as well if i have to reduce that stem so much. jfc.
  20. Hi thanks for the replies. I think I will have to remove the entire dieased stem, so long as the tree officer agrees.
  21. Hi Guys and Gals, I have been asked to prepare a quote to prune these beech trees, as many branches are overhanging the house. However I noticed a large areas of disease mid-stem (furthest left stem 2/3rd way up), probably a couple of feet in length and about 50% circumference of the stem. Please see attached photos (sorry the pics won't rotate corectly when uploaded) . Just to add a bit of complication the trees are TPO'd! I am happy to remove all the branches but am not sure whether to remove the whole diseased stem. No obvious sign of fungi/fruiting bodies, but my knowledge of fungi is minimal. Is the tree likely to heal itself or is the stem in danger of failing and need removed? Any advice re making an TPO application for permission to work on the trees? Cheers, jfc.
  22. Thanks for the advice guys. I hadn't thought of getting permanent signage but can see some benefits, still like the idea of magnetic though. Good to hear some cheaper ones are ok re staying on.
  23. Thanks for the waxing the car advice. Not so easy to do when it chucks it down with rain every day (like it has been here for the last 6 wks)!
  24. Hi, I am planning on getting magnetic signs for my pickup (I subbie as well as do my own work therefore I want them removable), can anyone recommend ones that stay attached? As I have heard stories of them falling off. I am wanting to put them on the driver and passenger doors. Thanks.
  25. Ha, I remember that storm. I was at school and we had a visit to Marconi in Cov, heading home on my 50cc hairdryer (Yamaha Fs1e), it couldn't cope with the headwind I had to change down to 1st gear to keep it moving!

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