Fredward

I've come out of forum retirement to post my thoughts on the Reflex. I have only recently acquired it but have had some climbs on it already. My background: approx 15 years climbing. The last 10 has been mostly on a hitch climber and rope wrench; with a bit of doubled rope but mostly SRS. In the past I have tried: BDB, ZZ, all iterations of the RR and the akimbo 1 (none of them permanently, just borrowed). I wasn't in a hurry to get a mechanical, but my interest grew recently seeing devices that were designed for use of both techniques. The price also attracted me to the reflex. The throttle drew me in but ultimately just seemed too expensive to justify. My initial thoughts: - Quite big and heavy, and feels a bit odd when you pick it up because a lot of the weight is in the stainless steel links, which flop around until installed. - Took a minute to get it installed right but not too bad once you've done it before. Probably similar to RR in that regard but not as streamlined as the akimbo. - Doesnt seem to run up the rope/self feed as well as other devices, possibly due to the weight.. But I didn't notice the weight as such once it's on the rope. It will likely self feed with enough rope weight but it's not like the zigzag in that regard. - Seems to descend great both MRS and SRS. Tried SRS 3 to 1 and that worked well (I think it's approved for that config). I think if you plan on doing any real amount of MRS a friction saver will be a must. - Did some climbing in the wet and it was quite jerky to get going, I'm assuming this is similar problem for other devices too. I think the addition of a wrench in this situation would be the only real reason to use one. However if you hold your tail at your hip like belaying, that seemed to be a work around. - Oddly the packaging was very basic, I could feel the device through the postage bag it arrived in at. Felt very basic. The real issue which I've only just been made aware of, is that the device is only rated to 12kn. I don't know how it can be life support with a 12kn rating, a friend was not allowed to use his at a recent climbing comp. He also told me in the manual it states that it's a class C device. I'm not sure what that means in real terms, it's designed to be used in conjunction with another climbing system? Two rope systems are not a mandatory requirement where I am in NZ. I just feel it's a bit strange that no one has mentioned that in any of the videos I've watched.

Just wondering if you know of any machines in NZ/Australia?

I guess if the springs are the only thing changing the position I should probably start with replacing those. Maybe they aren't in as good shape as I originally thought.

Thanks, the saw was partly disassembled when I took the photo, usually the limiter sits closer to the top, it is very easy to manipulate the saw and make it pop out of the limiter. This is one of the main things I am trying to correct. I have removed the spring adjacent, as well as the spring at the base of the side handle, both seem to be in good shape but I must be missing something somewhere as it just doesn't sit straight.

The saw it probably 3 years old now, generally been pretty good. Does the rear boot not play an important job? Anyone think of a reason why the handle section isn't staying where it is supposed to? I.e in the first photo those two parts separate with little force.

Struggling to upload photos (must be getting old). First photo, should there be a rubber insert here?! Second photo, right at the top. The triangular peice appears to have been damaged?

Hey crew. I'm having issues with the AV mounts for the handle (I presume) which is meaning the top handle moves easily enough that the carb boots keeps becoming disconnected. The little black tab on the right rear of the saw doesn't stay in the opposing ring behind the exhaust cover. It feels as though something is pulling the top handle section to the wrong side. Also, a secondary problem.. The starter cover has a screw with a brass insert into plastic, this insert has pulled out. I'm guessing I could glue it back in as a temporary fix or find a larger insert. Inside of the starter cover there is a black peice which traps the 'slide in' rear boot, this peice appears to have been broken slightly, is it supposed to create an airtight seal on the boot?

That's interesting, I don't think I can attribute mine to that, it happens near the chipper or even when someone scrapes a shovel on concrete!

Cheers, it is on my list, I'll make sure I do it before next week!

Hey there, I recently upgraded from my old SMH10 to the 10S, one of the crew already had a 10S and really liked it. I found almost instantly that there was a really nasty high pitched noise whenever we worked around the louder equipment. The kind of sound like when you turn a speaker up too loud and it's going to blow up! I can even hear it when the volume if down at the lowest setting. It's perfect when just talking but even the saws in the background on the lowest volume give me a right headache. I've mucked around with the settings in the app but doesn't seem to make a difference. Any advice before I switch back to the Smh10?

Thanks for the advice, I was hoping I'd be able to bring it up to the. New model spec and never look back! Between this saw and my 540xp (has been great for years, but giving me grief starting now) I just want to give up. Temperature is hanging around 30 degrees here though, which probably isn't helping.

Hey Spud, thanks for the reply, great to hear advice from a wizard such as yourself. I'm wondering if can upgrade to the newer version of the carb I think I've seen you talking about? I probably won't be able to source it in NZ but have a family member coming over in a few weeks, I could get stuff posted to them to bring out. Can you make any recommendations? Much appreciated.

Hi from the other side of the world! My dear little 2511 is getting more troublesome with age. It is leaning out spazmodically, and has been back and forth from the local chainsaw shop. Its never held a tune for a really long time, but seems to have gotten worse. Should I be looking for an air leak or is it more likely to be carb related?

Check out 'the educated climber' Facebook page and podcasts on Spotify. He has certain books that he recommends too. He's Canadian though so probably won't help with tree I.D.

I guess there is no reason why you couldn't, but you wouldn't get the side to side motion which the bridge provides. Good for ascent I'd imagine but I went for the regular Sequoia (2019) because I felt the SRT version was more cluttered and restrictive.