Fredward

Just wondering if you know of any machines in NZ/Australia?

I guess if the springs are the only thing changing the position I should probably start with replacing those. Maybe they aren't in as good shape as I originally thought.

Thanks, the saw was partly disassembled when I took the photo, usually the limiter sits closer to the top, it is very easy to manipulate the saw and make it pop out of the limiter. This is one of the main things I am trying to correct. I have removed the spring adjacent, as well as the spring at the base of the side handle, both seem to be in good shape but I must be missing something somewhere as it just doesn't sit straight.

The saw it probably 3 years old now, generally been pretty good. Does the rear boot not play an important job? Anyone think of a reason why the handle section isn't staying where it is supposed to? I.e in the first photo those two parts separate with little force.

Struggling to upload photos (must be getting old). First photo, should there be a rubber insert here?! Second photo, right at the top. The triangular peice appears to have been damaged?

Hey crew. I'm having issues with the AV mounts for the handle (I presume) which is meaning the top handle moves easily enough that the carb boots keeps becoming disconnected. The little black tab on the right rear of the saw doesn't stay in the opposing ring behind the exhaust cover. It feels as though something is pulling the top handle section to the wrong side. Also, a secondary problem.. The starter cover has a screw with a brass insert into plastic, this insert has pulled out. I'm guessing I could glue it back in as a temporary fix or find a larger insert. Inside of the starter cover there is a black peice which traps the 'slide in' rear boot, this peice appears to have been broken slightly, is it supposed to create an airtight seal on the boot?

That's interesting, I don't think I can attribute mine to that, it happens near the chipper or even when someone scrapes a shovel on concrete!

Cheers, it is on my list, I'll make sure I do it before next week!

Hey there, I recently upgraded from my old SMH10 to the 10S, one of the crew already had a 10S and really liked it. I found almost instantly that there was a really nasty high pitched noise whenever we worked around the louder equipment. The kind of sound like when you turn a speaker up too loud and it's going to blow up! I can even hear it when the volume if down at the lowest setting. It's perfect when just talking but even the saws in the background on the lowest volume give me a right headache. I've mucked around with the settings in the app but doesn't seem to make a difference. Any advice before I switch back to the Smh10?

Thanks for the advice, I was hoping I'd be able to bring it up to the. New model spec and never look back! Between this saw and my 540xp (has been great for years, but giving me grief starting now) I just want to give up. Temperature is hanging around 30 degrees here though, which probably isn't helping.

Hey Spud, thanks for the reply, great to hear advice from a wizard such as yourself. I'm wondering if can upgrade to the newer version of the carb I think I've seen you talking about? I probably won't be able to source it in NZ but have a family member coming over in a few weeks, I could get stuff posted to them to bring out. Can you make any recommendations? Much appreciated.

Hi from the other side of the world! My dear little 2511 is getting more troublesome with age. It is leaning out spazmodically, and has been back and forth from the local chainsaw shop. Its never held a tune for a really long time, but seems to have gotten worse. Should I be looking for an air leak or is it more likely to be carb related?

Check out 'the educated climber' Facebook page and podcasts on Spotify. He has certain books that he recommends too. He's Canadian though so probably won't help with tree I.D.

I guess there is no reason why you couldn't, but you wouldn't get the side to side motion which the bridge provides. Good for ascent I'd imagine but I went for the regular Sequoia (2019) because I felt the SRT version was more cluttered and restrictive.

Totally different rope. The original Cougar rope is polyester cover and polyester core. Very low elongation (2%). The CE version has a nylon core, with enough stretch to conform to the CE standards. I have used the CE rope and its fine but way stretchy in SRT configuration.