TTS North

Hi Given some of the recent posts on the forum which I must admit have rattled me to the core, I'm getting myself and guys I use on to a single hi-vis clothing policy. This is mainly so that we are consistent from a visibility point of view, not a mish-mash of oranges and yellows, and as visible as possible. The guys are responsible for their trousers, but we're looking at a set of long and short sleeved tops, and a heavier work jacket/top for everyone. I'm staying away from the manufacturer designer stuff which has some hi-viz colour but often seems to be mostly trendy (but not very hi viz) black. My attitude now is less about what matches the orange saws, but what screams out where people are - esp. on the ground. As much hi-viz as possible and I don't care if we don't look cool. We've got to be making it as easy as possible for us to see each other. Much as the colour unsettles me, the bright yellow seems to be more hi-viz than the orange. So 1. What do you is more visible - orange or day-glo yellow. 2. Slip on lightweight vests, or more dedicated material tops, fleeces etc 3. Where do you guys get your stuff from? Any good value recommendations? I'll be buying the kit and it'll be a good couple of hundred quid min, but a well worthwhile investment. Regards and be safe, TTS North

Anyone? Sorry I can't get any detailed pictures of the leaves, there are no lower branches. From a distance the leaves looked poplar like, but they don't seem to be the colour I would expect? Grey birch perhaps? Thanks.

I have a 150. If you want to run a 3/8 on it I think you have to fit a low profile 3/8 sprocket to go with it (?). Great on a 1/4 not sure if it has the oomph to pull a 3/8 - it will be interesting to see how you get on if you go down that route? a reels a lot fo chain to buy if you don't like it!

I've just started doing this as well - what is the role of the expert witness? Cheers.

Can I jump on this conversation and ask for the CS100: 1. When greasing bearings do you look for grease starting to ooze from the bearing cases as your stop point? 2. How many hours are getting before your blades need reversing? I'm up to about ten on mine and just starting to feel they are losing their edge. I don't chip the 4 inch max. - I restrict to 2 inches hardwood and 3 inches softwood to keep stress on the engine/belts to a minimum. 3. I'm not looking forward to undoing the torx bolts for the first time. Do you guys copper grease before reinstalling them? Also I note the manual says 35NM for blade bolts? Cheers.

Never let a customer tell you how to do your job. They can give you objectives - but not how to achieve them. If it goes wrong then it's a liability nightmare. You are setting a dangerous precedent with this client. If you aren't happy with it walk away. In any event the job sounds like it needs rigging - I take it you don't have your CS41? Something that size you need to understand your vectors, moments and dynamic loading - even if you are on the ground backing up a CS41 guy in a tree - the bollard is where a lot of things can go wrong.

new guy ti - I can't see much rigging detail there, how did you get the taller growth down under control?

The power of the stihl brand - impresses the chicks.

Sean - we have never met, but can I just say that I can't begin to imagine how difficult it must have been to write that very moving post. It was done with great dignity and eloquence. Your experience has caused me to take a long hard critical look at how I work. A pause for reflection was probably long overdue. A reminder of my own mortality is both humbling and frightening. I know I won't be the only one affected in this way. I wish you well and I will follow your story as long as you are willing to tell it. Take care.

Have to admit, never tried a husky long term, only occasionally so I can't comment on which is better. I'm Stihl man - if only because when you turn up on site some customers recognise the brand. You'll get comments "ooooh a stihl - how much was that!" They know enough to know it's top notch kit and perhaps understand better where the job fee is going. Huskys may well be as good, but you don't get the same oohs and ahhs from clients. All other things being equal, sometimes it's worth being customer POV focussed rather than kit focussed?

Am I the only one who has the bolts which secure the feed hopper open/closed bend like this? Brand new machine and it's the third time in 4 months, and I'm not even heavy handed with it. Bad enough I wasn't one of the chosen few who managed to get a hundred quid off a new machine or a spare set of blades thrown in - now I have to go and buy replacement bolts from Wickes at 20p a go! If one of these ever breaks and falls into the blades when it was running then the next post would have had a few swear words asterisked out. Harrumph!

Good one.

That is actually very useful. Thanks for posting.

Coastal men are the manliest, finds survey ? top 10 most manly jobs revealed - Shields Gazette A chef is manlier than a tree surgeon??

Very useful info, guys. Thanks.

Thanks guys - that's what I needed to hear. Can anyone recommend a 3 phase machine they have used? Scheppach are the only ones I can find. The workshop has 3 phase and I'd be daft not to use it.

I'm now in the market for a vertical log splitter - the more powerful the better. Unfortunately, a petrol driven machine just isn't an option. Should I be looking at a three phase machine? What are the performance advantages over single phase? Thanks for any input.

Glad I'm not the only one suggesting 3 years at University.

Invest it in your own education and training. Best return you'll ever get. Unlike most other investments, an education is the one thing you can never lose and no-one can ever take from you.

That's a good point, Andy, and one I had not considered. The tree is in a private garden, but it is ex-local authority owned. Would you think that the property would now have dropped out of the legal requirement from govt to carry out an open/green space audit? and so would any previous audit now no longer apply? TBH I think my above point may be a redundant , because such an audit(previously or presently) would imply no legal restriction in and of itself? Thanks to all for the input btw.

Thanks, Paul - I have the instruction from the owner and the authorisation from them to go ahead - if that's what you mean? It's this position from the local authority - that I don't need permission, but still have to apply for permission, which is confusing.

I've been put in a rather bizarre situation. Been asked to do some pruning on a tree. The LA say it is not TPO'd and not in a conservation area but was part of a 'green space audit'. On that basis I've been told by the LA that 'to be on the safe side' I should put in an application to work on it. I detect a hint of people not being sure of what they are doing and of their own responsibility so passing it, whatever it may be, back to me. My thoughts - how can I apply for something which cannot be applied for because it doesn't exist. I can't apply to work on a TPO'd tree that doesn't exist in a non existent conservation area. It's like applying for permission to paint the moon. I'm minded to just go ahead and do the work. What are your thoughts?

The problem with jobs for 'mates' and family is that you're a mate only until they get the cheap price, then you're tradesman - or in reality, treated worse than one, because they think they can ask for the world in an oyster because you're a mate/family and then treat you in a way they wouldn't dream of treating a stranger. It never ends. I'll either do such jobs for full price or free. The other problem is that a mate of a mate of a mate - which is what such jobs often are - aren't really 'mates' at all. NEVER go native.

Thats nice - stops the stand flapping up and down in between the ramps. My other idea was to run a permanently fixed small electric winch from the chipper's battery, but its such a weak small thing and I can't find one with higher amps to fit in the battery box.

Like others, I can push ours up the ramps okay, it's just managing the balance really - but have yet to find a way to lower it back down without it over balancing. There's no natural tie in point near the tipping point - if you see what I mean. I got a boat type winch but while it helps control the descent it still topples over one way of the other. Like the jockey/front wheel idea. Any one got any pics?