WeFixIt

So I bow down to the get wise one so I my hear your words of wisdom, please continue with your own theory of knowledge.. & experience of using a wood chipper and explain the reasons why a 1” shaft of steel snaps like a twig?.....

Feed rollers once dug in to a piece of wood are feeding it in regards less of shape if it will physically go in it’s going in and that means compressing the shape and size via a nice smooth tapered hopper, once past that the narrowest point there’s room for expansion! Rotating shaft pushed of centre the slightest bit bends forwards backwards up and down with ever rotation. That’s called stressed which I turn causes fatigue and failure! Well everyone comments how fast a Forst chips!! How many could honestly say they have only ever feed their chipper in a nice steady pace with no large y pieces, no cramping in as much as you can because it will take, never use reverse as it’s all small enough!.. Guess I must be wrong! Feed rollers shaft just snap like twigs for no reason!.. or maybe the hydraulic motors are so strong they just twist them off?.. everyone’s an expert until they break it!

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This is a job that has to be right ! Which includes running the chipper and checking bearing running temperature followed by adding or taking away shins where needed to achieve the correct temperature range otherwise failure is just waiting down the road.. Whoever you use just ask them how they insure the correct reload on the bearings !

Most common failure for feed roller shafts is large Y prices ! A chipper with good performing feed rollers will pull in most lengths of timber, Y prices squash through the hopper and spring open with great force causing feed roller shafts to fail or with some other brands of chipper it can brake the feed roller hydraulic motor drive shaft . Cut your Y pieces, simple prevention failure is operators abuse! It’s a chipper not a compactor

So who has seen the new Stihl fuel injection chainsaw? And whats the verdict?

I Guess that's simple the beauty of Forst..

In theory yes you could ! But seriously it’s not designed to do that and it would void any warranty you have! Your hydraulic system in your chipper is closed circuit if you start splitting joins apart or fitting QR fittings then you run the risk of getting contamination in the hydraulics and then your be buying a new pump, oil and filter! Which would be the biggest part of buying a chipper with its own engine and pump and if you sell your current splitter your be even nearer!

Yeah your right! That’s what you get for texting faster than you can think.. Also blade set to close can suffer from wood/chip getting stuck between the two forcing the flywheel to flex and causing a undesirable effect!

So in your scenario what if the Manager is also the Engineer! or the Engineer is also the Director!?

I’am guessing by the fact your adjusting the blades each time you have the older style flywheel which has 2 adjusting bolts on the rear edge of each blade! In most cases the blade angle to anvil is adjusted by moving the main flywheel bearings This will normally result in adjustment of reducing or increasing the gap but the the blade to anvil closest point is always the edge nearest the centre of the flywheel If you have new or good flywheel bearings small gap is fine the outer edge is a larger gap still good! As the flywheel will isolate when spinning at speed a little bit and then you stick a lump of wood in its way and so it will then isolate a lot but that’s ok because you have a tapered blade gap Make your gap to small and one day your be posting pictures of your chipper where the flywheel has been trying to climb out of the chipper or it’s spitting chunks of steel out of everywhere! Anvil changing well like blades depends what your chipping! Some anvils are single use some are reversible those that are should only be turned once not each blade change or every other but when on inspection it is deemed no longer serviceable, refacing in some cases can be done but caution refacing some anvils could have undesired effects, the anvil has been manufactured the size it is for a reason! and it fits snuggle in position and is just the right height and thickness to do its job also like blades they are ground to angles to assist performance. Like blades when fitting anvils it is so important to clean every bit of chip, dirt and crap out before fitting. As many will know but possibly some won’t a bit of dirt or wood or stone gets stuck between the anvil mounting and the anvil it will break down over time due to compression and vibrating and fall out like dust leaving you with a loose anvil next to a high speed spinning flywheel!! Or if it’s behind the anvil it could cause it to warp and make contact with the flywheel blades!

This is what a Jensen manual says!

Isn’t that the same as the engineer says one thing and the management sill have no idea!

What I was saying in the past 10 years I’ve only seen 3 Jensen chippers with shins fitted and I’ve seen quite a lot! Neither is that because they all had new blades fitted! In Europe Jensen set the chippers with a wide gap at blade to anvil, when they were imported by Redwood they reset/reduced the gap for the UK market. Therefore the gap produced by wear/resharpening has a bigger allowance before and issue of the gap being to big that shims are needed..

Little bit of self correction new blades and anvil!