NickinMids

Saw it at the APF. Bloke had no literature but what impressed me was the re usable line that just winds back into the clear cylinder and doesn't tangle, "memoryless" I think he called it. This would be useful with or without a gun I think. Anyone know where it could be sourced.

Looking at MEWPS today at APF and was surprised when told height and reach. When you look at a tree how do you accurately judge the height

I'm always tempted to leave a new chain as long as possible before putting a file to it (as long as I haven't hit dirt or anything) Maybe I'm just crap at filing but I always feel why attack a perfectly engineered piece of metal unless it's noticeably blunt. I have been told the opposite by people who know best but find it hard to accept

tordon 22

Been withdrawn....as has Timbrel/Garlon but there's a new product called

Ikade or Icade available from Rigby Taylor which they say works. It's still got Triclopyr and something else in it

Thanks all...will have a look next week

He mentioned 3 to 400 pounds

oh right...maybe I got it wrong maybe he said 440?

Seriously..?? Am I missing something...don't know much about saws

Been offered a Stihl 040..? second hand but in good working order. Are they a good saw and can I still get bits..? Looking to have a 24 26 inch bar... would it handle that ?

I recently bought a CE Lanyard to replace my Dragon adjustable lanyard with rope grab. Also bought hitch climber and foot pantin at same time.

I find that I can easily take both along.. dragon as conventional side to side lanyard when in a straightforward vertical position but CE as second climbing line really and extra anchoring if cutting in awkward position. I use the little prussic with the HC in O rig ascent. Also got a revolver krab to play with the MA options. Have found the CE can be temperamental with the friction hitch. Still trying to find the optimum knot for it.

It does take about 3-5 years for sure, to begin with your using your muscle only, no experience to make it easier, then over the years you learn that there is an easy way and a bloody hard way to do each scenario you'll come across.

 

Ensuring you dont cover the same ground twice is one of the more difficult things to master, no climber likes climbing a stem twice to get to a branch that would have been easier earlier in the day!

 

Learning that big broad canopies are best tackled from top to bottom in segments, quartered or 8ths for example.

 

and the muscles required take time to develop along with it the stamina and the art of pacing oneself.

 

Getting the right anchor point for the most flexible amount of moves in one go, learning just what you need to take up and NOT, cos lets face it some folk just like to look like christmas trees and thats not what a seasoned arborist wants! theres a reason!

 

There is no substitute for just getting up there and cracking on, its like the tree itself, i mean the energy balance, you have a budget at the start, manage that well and youll get to the finish line in comfort, manage it badly and youll be back to finish the job in the morrow!

 

I dont know if there is a way of teaching the art of it, we all have natural abilities and arb is one of those things youll either excel at or struggle on with wondering why others seem to be more successful or just have an easier time of it. I see so many struggling, moaning about the job the life, the agro, while others have a blast enjoy it and make good money.

 

Everyone no matter how they are taught will develop their own style, there is no right or wrong, just an efficient and successful completion

Thanks Tony a taste of what I was looking for in some of those tips

Its often said and would seem reasonable to accept, that to be a good climber takes about three to five years of experience after initial qualifying. I would like to ask the experienced people to elaborate on this. Is it just speed...better more confident balance/positioning.....more efficient planned progress through the tree..etc etc

The available books just give basic concepts.. and book wise what is there.?

Jep Jepson Tree climbers companion and To fell a Tree

The Art and Science of Practical Rigging

Guide to good climbing practice

There's no guides on techniques for tackling particular pruning or removal challenges....no videos of crown reductions etc Or is it just too subjective that only personal experience can teach

Its a difficult one isn't it and I think both camps are partly right. Nobody wants to see daft kids being let loose with a chainsaw and hurting themselves or others. On the other hand experienced guys up trees and cutting everyday shouldn't have to fork out for refreshers and how many times has it been said that a newly qualified guy is all but useless until he has a few years experience. So its far from perfect but as an inherently dangerous job where a small mistake can cause serious harm then there needs to be some sort of minimum standard to practice professionally. People who think the present system is wrong need to put forward ideas to create something more affordable and credible

No expert but I believe a climbing rope has a max life of ten year even if it stops in the bag..????

Strange...... was watching that film Grand Prix on Sunday which he was in and was wondering if he was still around

Thanks

Just when I thought I'd got my head round the terminology short hand

Can somebody confirm I'm not confused

Doubled rope...Rope thrown over a limb and both strands used as one for access/footlocking

Ddrt Double dynamic rope system... standard system utilising friction hitch to ascend and descend on an adjustable loop of the rope..with possibility of using other end of rope to have two tie in points in the crown

SRT Single rope top tied or base anchored for access using mechanical ascenders/fig of eight descenders

SRTWP As above but used with new fangled accessory allowing ascent or decent on same equipment therefore lending it's self to work positioning

DRT SRTWP with two ropes..?

If there's anything else please put me right

Will admit I know nothing about planning regs apart from they can be very stringent at times but all you can do is try to apply the test of reasonableness and argue your case

Also good luck...

Is a question that is quite irrelevant...?

Just thinking if no nuisance why wouldn't they allow change of use... albeit that he should have applied previously

In what way is the fencing business causing nuisance to the neighbour that agriculture did not

Thanks Chris Will complete the re reduction which will reduce end weight and then mention it to the TO.

Logjam and Tim. Very impressed with powers of observation and deduction. Was just the leg loop and I quickly re clipped after photos. no flies on you guys

I process tpo apps for a LA and it annoys me when I run apps to pollard mature maiden trees. Its not possible. Pollarding does not result in large diameter cuts and does not overly stress the trees. It also has a well developed framework of branches and starts when trees are young.

 

It devalues the industry to call that Pollarding.

As per your picture that's what I consider acceptable pollarding/re pollarding

The original pic I took is possibly what pollarding meant some years ago and is maybe something you might do to willows if you have a basket factory. I was surprised to see it done to Limes in Kidderminster, but maybe it is acceptable practice, just out of fashion. Are there tree health reasons why it shouldn't be done..?

Saw these this morning.. obviously sanctioned by LA. some people might think it would be as well to remove them altogether.. Whats the opinions of the tree boffins on here

Berthoud knapsack with CP 1mt lance

More pics