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gooseflight

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Posts posted by gooseflight

  1. I don't know what system you climb on but if you're nervous about your kit use something reassuringly simple for a while, like a split tail with prusik. If you're worried about a specific piece of kit, e.g., harness, then replace it.

     

    As far as cutting anchors with the saw is concerned you will always have two. So really there is nothing to worry about.

     

    Any idea where this fear come from? Is it born of imagination, i.e., irrational, or from something that happened to someone else you know or someone you read about? If doesn't sound like something has happened to you. Or did something unrelated to climbing happen that has made you look at your own mortality?

     

    If it's irrational then you just have to find a strategy to deal with it or it might just go away, especially if you climb more and get your confidence back.

     

    If it happened to someone else then chances are it won't happen to you as long as you remain mindful and careful.

     

    And as Roosevelt said, "Only thing we have to fear is fear itself."

  2. Just remember if your using a Powerful winch that's portable to use on the rear tow bar then you will need to run Anderson cables from battery to rear to make portable connection if you want a proper job .

    Top tip. So you mean an Anderson plug on the winch and Anderson socket/booster cables on the battery side?

  3. I just bought a Handy THLS-6 and although I have nothing to compare it with it makes short work of the stuff I've put through it - up to approx 12" diameter and 10" long. Much easier than using the x27 :thumbup1:

    By the time you've lifted every log a meter off the ground you might as well have swung the X27 :sneaky2:

  4. If we didn't all work voluntarily on this project it wouldn't be anywhere near that high. But like I say, the 60% goes to pay for the residences. So I'm not sure that we can compare strictly like for like,

    I really appreciate your comments and input guys 🙂

    Just to be clear, your operation generates a healthy surplus but apart from sub-contractors you don't pay for any labour? And your labour is fed and housed from the proceeds of your operation @ 60% of turnover?

  5. Unless you're splitting some seriously gnarly wood i'd go with large splitting axe over the maul. I've got the maul and while its a really nice axe it soon gets too heavy! Or maybe i'm too weak!

    Mauls aren't just for gnarly wood. The problem with a lot of mauls, especially cheaper ones, is that they are either too broad, blunt, or both.

     

    A maul still needs a good edge otherwise the mass and breadth behind the edge doesn't carry into the wood, it will just bounce off. Same is true of splitting wedges. They too need a good edge to start otherwise they just bounce out.

  6. As said, it's a bit of a guessing game, but two things:

     

    1. Insurance -- have you shopped around and bought hard to drive premiums down?

     

    2. Residential costs -- are you on top of variable costs like utilities? Have you implemented energy saving measures where possible.

  7. I have both the Gransfors maul and the Fiskars.

     

    The Fiskars is near enough 2lbs lighter than the Gransfors but longer. The Fiskars has no hammer poll so no good for wedges.

     

    Personally I don't find the Fiskars is any better than other good quality mauls that out there.

     

    My weapon of choice is a wooden shafted Oregon maul which is similar in weight to the Gransfors but as long as the Fiskars. The Husqvarna mauls look similar but I've never seen one close up.

     

    You would be lucky to find the Gransfors for less than £100.

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