chrismechanic
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Everything posted by chrismechanic
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spring puller on thingy ?
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sadly not, here in my workshop i have a manual mill with dro. also i have a freind who works in a CNC factory, so anything to complex for the hand mill goes there.. chris.
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it would not be a problem eddy. drilling holes is easy, getting them in the correct place is the hard part chris
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whats a topper chris
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this morning i used the saw again, half a tank and what a difference . the saw cuts straight as a die now, and much faster. better than the first cut i did with the saw. im sure the blunt chain was getting too hot and munching its was through the bar as i was trying to push down to cut. tbh i think the chain was poorly sharpened in the first place, i found the teeth on one side where all longer than the other, plus the depth stops where all too long as well. after cutting the bar has no wear on it, it is still 90 as i left it. i will keep this saw and buy a better bar and chain when it eventually wears out, as im now pleased with its performance for my needs. even if i buy another bar and chain it would still be less than buying a quality brand saw.. a big thanks to all who helped out here, if i can help anyone with machining and/or one off projects just ask.. chris
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is it a nose hair remover ?
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ok guys i will get it to .65mm in the morning.. thanks for your help.. im off to bed, my boys gotta get up early, night all.. chris
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it says 0.65mm in the manual so went for around 0.50mm, after sharpening the chain it was cutting so much better but i found the teeth where longer on one side of the chain so after sorting that out and dropping the cutter stop depth to .50mm it should cut nice..i hope chris
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thought so... thanks geoff:thumbup: i am going to go down to .50mm the fit the bar upside down and try that.. chris
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thanks geoff.. so what about without the depth guage.. can i put a straight edge from tooth to tooth and measure with feeler guages? chris
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yes i agree.. thanks chris..
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thanks for the tip stubby... my bar has 14.91-52 8G stamped on.. and how do i check the cutter bumper stop depth... chris
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so i suppose that a 1.3mm runs in a 1.4mm bar gap? not 1.6mm? chris
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ironic you should say that too... i think the chain is like a d&%k in a bucket as far as the fit to the bar.. it seems way too loose, the slot is around 1.60mm even 1.68 in some places and the chain drive teeth are 1.3mm wide, so real sloppy chris
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funny you should say that... i was just looking at that and apart from the tool, how would i check that... would a straight edge from tooth to tooth and then measure the gap be ok? if i do measure it that way i get around .35mm so they do need attention. thanks.. chris
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dam i missed that one .. too busy laughing at the next post owwch...
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yer i like it.. would look amazing if they all had light sabre's i finnished checking tooth length's.. some are longer than others by to to .50mm, im now trying to get them all the same length..
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yes im familliar with this, as i said in my previous post i think that is the problem here... i think i will drop mcculloch uk an email. maybe they want to send me a new bar. thanks for all your help guys ill let ya know what they said.. chris
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was it some kind of saw? jigsaws allways seem to injure people.. chris
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milling machine and lathe operator, tool maker, bench fitting and surface grinders
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thank you, yes.. thats how i am making sure the surface the chain runs on is at 90 to the bar, i am an engineer so i have some very nice measuring equipment here , it was perfectly at 90 the whole length before i started cutting. it seems to wear on one side only..
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well i took 4 cuts through 5-6 inch diameter logs and then checked the bar. noticed that after the 2nd cut it started to cut to the right again it is cutting much better now i have sharpened the chain, no more powder . the bar is starting to wear one side allready at the same point, it looks like the bar is at fault to me. thanks to who ever pointed out i should see if the bar is straight, it has a bow to it about 2mm-3mm in the centre. i trust the bar should be straight as a die? or is a small amount of bend allowed? thanks all.. chris
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yup.. i think the rail is maybe soft one side... im going to use the saw for a few cuts and see how it goes then remove the chain and bar and inspect.. thanks Eddy_t chris
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good advice here, thanks guys... so this morning i have refaced the bar flat, and sharpened the chain. the bar was not flat on the bottom and the chain was also blunt, i did not realise trees where so abrasive some requested pics so here are some pics i took last night while inspecting the bar and chain... you can see the wear clearly... does the hook angle look ok ? thanks guys.. chris
