aesmith

Isn't than because it's a pain removing the outboard clutch, whereas on an inboard clutch it's just one clip to remove the drum and the clutch stays in place.

Well it's a bummer from my point of view, I really liked that saw and I think it was the ideal size and shape for me. I suppose it's too soon know whether the problem still exists on the new (2017?) version.

Yes, I'm passing. Just a slight pang in case the owner might just replace the clutch drum and punt it onto some unsuspecting buyer.

Serious suggestion? I was thinking 346 or 550 would be the nearest equivalents, although I'm not sure I fully follow Husq naming logic (346 = 46cc except sometimes it's 50cc)

Thanks. On close inspection I can feel some roughness on the crank where the bearing runs. I guess the bearing failed at some time and has since been replaced, the fitted bearing has metal cage. I assume if the clutch drum was replaced it would run OK for a time, but the bearing would have a short life and the crank would get progressively worse. I'm going to pass. Might have taken the risk if it was dirt cheap as the model seems just what I'm looking for. I suppose I still find it hard to believe Stihl ran a model with this sort of inherent fault for something like 8 years before getting it resolved (assuming it is in fact resolved now). Might need to start thinking of the H word ..

Hi, I have an MS261 on offer, but there is wear on the clutch/crank bearing. I'm trying to see if this is repairable, or whether the crank is goosed. As it stands the clutch drum rocks more than it should, but the saw idles with the brake engaged. I've tried swapping bits with my MS180, the needle bearings are the same. Obviously the clutch drums aren't interchangeable but can be slid onto the crank the wrong way round so to speak, with the drum outboard. So swapping the needle bearings makes no difference - same play on the MS261 and same lack of play on the MS180. Swapping the drums, the MS261 drum is sloppy when fitted to the MS180, the MS180 drum is snug when fitted to the MS261. That suggests to me that the play is due to the drum being worn oversize, not the crank being worn undersized. What do people think? Is there any way I can be reasonably sure the crank is OK, I don't know if anyone would be able tell anything from a photo. Thanks, Tony S

OK that's great thanks.

About an hour after my post I got a reply from Stihl to this same question, in essence they report a revised clutch drum was introduced mid 2016, and they suggest fitting this together with a new bearing.

Hi, I was just looking at some parts I might need on a mail order site I've used before (LS Engineers), and the following banner came up ... There seems to be a qualified suggestion that existing account holders can still order Stihl spares .. possibly ..

Are the MS261 bearing issues sorted now? If so do you know roughly when they got fixed, I mean for example did it affect the M-Tronic models as well as the original?

I'll bet that's exactly the same with HETAS's pet insurance provider. However in either case they'd either have to point to the clause in their actual insurance contract that allows them to avoid paying, or they'd have to show that the owner had been negligent to an extent that should have been self evident to any sensible person.

Good idea if I can find a source of board at a decent price. A set of vermiculite bricks is around £30, I'd need a board 300 x 700 to make a single set (or one 260 x 260 and one 300 x 420). Not sure it's worth us getting in a bulk board for several sets, unless vermiculite has a lot shorter life than fire clay.

Hi, Reading the other thread reminded me that at some point I'll need to replace at least the side bricks in our Morso Squirrel. The existing bricks are clay, no idea if they are the originals or not. Replacements are available either as vermiculite board, or for about 50% more in fireclay. What do people reckon, is there any advantage to the clay bricks? Thanks, Tony S

I was off the mark with my first comment, it's not a scare story to promote some new certification scheme. It's a scare story to promote their own insurance. The actual page goes on .. " Fortunately, HETAS has a long standing relationship with Jelf, a leading UK insurance broker, ..".

I don't believe that for one second, unless you read it in your own insurance agreement, in which case a change of insurers would deal with the matter. Unless spelled out in the actual policy, the only possible impact would be if they could prove to a legal standard that you were negligent and that this negligence directly caused or failed to prevent a claim. By the way, regarding sweeping I find I get almost nothing from our chimney with the metal liner. It hadn't been swept for four years before I first swept it, and even that all that came out was around a teacup full of grey ash. Same with any subsequent sweeping. I get a bit more out of the other chimney which has a larger cement liner, but I'm convinced that both would be perfectly fine even if not swept for several years.

Our stoves were both in place when we moved here, a Morso Squirrel and an Esse 100 (with something wrong with it). Answering the spirit of the poll if I had my time again, and the stoves weren't already in place, I'd have bought two Squirrels.

I replaced the baffle and the door seal on our Morso Squirrel in 2013. The baffle had to be replaced again early this spring, door seals will need doing soon. Firebricks are cracked but still sound enough. So must frequent replacement part is the baffle.

No reference in our house insurance. They didn't ask what sort of heating, nor do they appear to have any exclusion. Sounds like typical scaremongering to me. HETAS drumming up business for some form of certification scheme as a money spinner?

Thanks everyone. So Stihl == Lotus? Not sure if that's good or bad. Anyway I'm still swithering, really wondering if I should consider going down in size/power (for example 026) or look at something larger. So my short list is getting longer. I'm going to be away for a few days so can't do anything right now, meanwhile I'll keep an eye on Gumtree for anything local. If I was going significantly larger (say Husky 365) I'd want to handle it first.

Cheers. Open to other brand suggestions, but I must admit to a bias towards Stihl purely as I did well with the 180 and I think another Stihl would be more straightforward to get used to and maintain. Can't argue with the following for Husky though, once I get my head around which model(s) might be worth a look.

Cheers. If I read it right the 026 has less power than MS260. Also I'm thinking that model might be a little too old, if that's not the case and saws of than generation are still viable, maybe I should look at a 034 of which there seem to be a few around. Suggested Husky models? Sounds like a 346 might be equivalent, but it looks like some of their models have the same numbers but different letters, and are actually different. For example it appears a "365 Special" and "365 X" are different with the X having a bigger engine. So I'm a little lost with their models, what should I be looking for in the 50 to 60cc range? Thanks, Tony S

Thanks for the comments. There have been a couple of occasions when I've really struggled with a short bar, bearing in mind that a Stihl "14 inch" bar is only just over 12" from spikes to tip. Once was a log which was well over twice the cutting length, and for the life of me I couldn't work out a neat way of cutting that. Thanks for the suggestions as well. Huskies seem to come up more often second hand round here, there were two 365s advertised the other day, although maybe that's bigger than I need.

Great thanks, I'm all in favour of habitat. Unless someone thinks otherwise I think what we'll do is reduce that S limb removing the lower parts, and we'll see how it goes. The good news is that in it's location it's unlikely to do much damage if yet another part breaks off. Would it be worth bevelling the saw cut so it's not horizontal? Ash die back is an issue given so much of our cover is Ash, but growing up replacements will take a lot of time. I might plant Beech in a suitable place near this one as an eventual successor, we'll be planting some in any case this winter.

Hi, This tree originally had three main stems, one going straight up, one to the North running near vertical with little branching until the top, and the third branch to the South where it's not shaded by anything is more spread out. A few years ago the central stem broke off at around 30'. Now last week the North stem failed where it branches from the main trunk. That happened during strong winds but it looks as if it was rotten internally and I'm wondering if the tree can recover. And if it can, would we be better cutting back the branch to the S to remove some of the weight on the joint? Here's the remaining tree after the severed branch was removed (visible in background) .. And close up of the damage on the main trunk. The split runs maybe 5 or 6 inches below the saw cut ... Thanks, Tony S

Hi, I've been using a Stihl 180 for a little while now, and I'm feeling the need (desire) for something a bit bigger. I'd like to be able to handle an 18" or maybe longer bar. I'm really happy with the 180 that I bought second hand, it needed a few routine things fixed but that was straightforward enough and parts readily available. So my first thought was another second hand Stihl. I just missed an MS260 for sale locally which I think might have been just the job. However I'm interested in opinions about which models are worth looking at. There also seem to be more Husqvarnas around second hand in the area, but I'm not sure what models would be worth considering. The other option would be cheap Chinese, I don't really like the idea but there's a Mitox dealer almost within walking distance. Would be cutting almost exclusively fallen wood Thanks in advance, Tony S