jjll

I remembered this thread the other day when I saw this exposed root from a birch. Thought it could help with your decisions

Hi,

As mentioned when is the best time to prune for shape.

My books suggest mid - late summer but other online resources suggest winter pruning along with other apples.

Any confirmation on this would be appreciated

No problem. Thanks anyway

Thanks

The size is 1.2"

Hi,

Does anyone have a working gear head for sale?

Nice one, thanks 👍

Hi,

Can anyone Id this shrub?

Apparently it has purple flowers

That's the sort of thing I'd be looking to do. Get the lot cleared when I'm getting too full.

I'm in Cheltenham

Is there a market for arb wood?

Mainly cords, rings and butts of mixed hard and soft wood.

I Usually cut into logs and sell on, just wandering if anyone sells theirs as it it in bulk loads? I understand it's not as easy as a timber lorry because of the various sizes and rings of timber.

Thanks for the replies.

I didnt make may last post that clear.

What I meant was, it will stand outside, covered or whatever is best in planks until it's used.

The product itself isn't necessarily going to be outdoor furniture.

Because of the colour, I like the idea of making a table top for indoors

The timber was cut by me and has been sitting in its final felling spot for the last year.

I'm not intending on selling it for profit or want anyone to buy it from me.

It's in a family property and has some sentimental value because of where it has come from.

My plan is to mill it up and either make myself or have someone make items of furniture or features from it.

I don't have any immediate plans as to what.

My questions were, what is the best way to process it, store it and treat it for future projects.

It will be staying outside in a woodland area.

And definitely not cut up for fire wood!

Just looking for some advise as I know nothing about milling.

Cheers

Hi,

I have a stick of yew which has been cut for about a year. I intend to mill it up with an Alaskan which I recently bought. I don't know anything about milling, apart from the few attempts I've had on smaller stuff.

What is the best was to process this timber?

How long should it be left before making things with it?

Is there anything I should, or should have already done to the timber?

Is there a general thickness of planks that would make it more useable?

Any other tips would be appreciated

Cheers

Anyone??

Hi,

As before i have some conifer timber available in fairford FOC if anyone is interested.

Would also be looking to dump a couple of loads of chip either locally or somewhere between fairford and Cheltenham.

Job is in 2 weeks

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Hi,

I took it back to Cheltenham in the end, was a last minute post, I didn't really think it through.

Thanks for the offer anyway!!

Anyone able to help with a chip drop in stonehouse today?

Cheers

I get it now you would put a bolt right through the axle inside and also through the tube on the rim. I say no as well because it will be too weak. I have seen this design on a BCS tractor lower link pin. It fails!!!!!

If you trim too much off the rim tube and the tyre rubs the frame, you can always re shim with washers. Are you near me geographically jjll? I may have some bits and pieces you could test this out on.

No don't think so,I'm in Gloucestershire.

Tbh, most of the time it's loaded with brash so not exceeding the payload, but I guess the odd time it does have a good lump on it, it's likely to cause me problems.

I had the AT out again today, and just as I was packing up realised one sides washer and clip missing. Found them easily enough but still a pain.

As my wheels have the same tubing length either side of the hub, would it make sense to cut them down evenly until they no longer overhang. This may not even be possible as they could have bearings fitted.

I understand that bolting the wheels to the axel won't work as mentioned, I had a look and the axels are fixed.

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Old wheels, the once I have

New

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Ok, I was just browsing the internet for a photo to describe it.

This is roughly where it would be cut back to if not a little further.

You can see from this how much it overhangs, very little, but surprising how it always gets caught and causes the pins to come out.

The wheels I have are symmetrical so I could drill and bolt somewhere around the arrow and this would still keep them locked into place.

I came across some new wheels on fr jones which seem to have a smaller centre tube but, wouldn't fully solve the problem as the axel bar will still stick out. Also I don't fancy spending the best part of £100 on a new set.

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Hi,

I've had the AT for a year or so and found it very useful on certain jobs.

I've got one issue with width.

The overhang on the wheels is forever getting caught on gateways and causing the pin and washer to pull out and fall off.

Some gateways are just too narrow for the wheels to fit.

I'm thinking about cutting the tubing on the wheel down so it is level with the trolley sides and drill and bolt the wheels on the inside as I don't ever take them on and off.

I'm sure it's been designed to spread the load evenly on the axels and wheels but is it really going to make much of a difference in carting loads?

Cheers for any help

Looks a good one, thanks

Can anyone recommend a decent security alarm ,and where to get it,for lockup that is battery powered as mains power is no option.

Cheers