Woodworks
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Everything posted by Woodworks
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No idea but we do. I just fill a bucket to around the 12 litre mark and pour it into a bag. We don't put any weight or volume on the bag but they are around 2kg. The idea with a much larger fire box is just a greater area to heat and have natural losses through the sides. It gets the same amount of gas either way so would be cooler.
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OK thanks So a 50% conversion rate for you as well. In the picture it looks a lot better than that. I asked about the ash logs as I am fiscally unsure about converting quality logs of any species to charcoal. Only using small branch wood in ours at present that I would rather not put in with the logs.
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Looks great but using best ash logs to make charcoal? What was the conversion rate? Looks amazingly high. Only ever got 50% with our retort.
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Thanks for the help but as far as I concerned burn time is not my problem at the moment. Main snag is too much heat. To protect the internals I now have various insulation materials on there way but the snag with this is temperatures will now be higher still. Options as I see it are Starve it of air but presume this will result in lots of gases going up the flue unburnt then have flaring out the top? Build a much larger fire box so temperature are lower. Butterfly valve on flue? Insulate charge chamber so everything runs at high temps but steel survives. Looking at the Pressvess video it looks like this is the route they take.
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My mistake it's willow he grows http://arbtalk.co.uk/forum/forestry-woodland-management/74389-growing-firewood.html
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Have a search on here. Think a member called Marko has planted up some
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Ordered it with a 300mm probe. Was just going to drill the right sized hole through the lining. I might be able to change the order. Do you think this will be useless?
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Thanks again for contributing to my folly So whats the problem if the gases start igniting before the wood is completely dry? I know you often mention it but I don't understand the reasoning other than less other fuel required. I can pre heat subsequent barrels and this took ignition times down from 30 mins to 20 mins. Cant redirect the gases with mine as it has to be simple to keep price down.
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Thanks Just ordered a thermometer and thermocouple so can get a better idea of whats going on next burn. At present I have very rudimentary control over combustion air. Presume if I reduce the air supply some of the gas will go up the flue and combust there? At present I think it all gets burned off in the fire box. Other than reducing air supply are there other ways to control temperature?
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Thanks Alec So some pictures of the damage. I know the lining and support were lightweight but surprised by the bending of the L section in pic one. Thats 6mm X 50mm L with around 25kg resting on it at the start of the burn. Easy for the base to be much heavier steel with reinforcement on the ends but the lining in pic 3 wants to be as light as possible. From a look at heat chart based on the colour of steel pic 2 got up to around 800C!
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Sounds like I should not have used stainless angle for the charge chamber supports and some thicker steel would have been better. Not had too many problems with charge chamber but the inner lining of the retort took a beasting but it was some wafer this steel sheet I had laying around. Trying to keep the whole thing as light as possible as I don't want any of the parts to be more than a two person lift. This one definitely gets hotter than my old one and may need some means to crank it back. Was trying to keep it simple as every little bit adds cost
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Must admit I had not grasped that fact. So do all steels and stainless steels become dramatically weaker when heated?
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Just had my first go with prototype. Principle is great and made 3x200 litre barrels worth by lunchtime. Only made it of light steel to test idea but some parts are very odd shapes now . Even the stainless L section barrel supports have sagged which I did not expect.
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Best/toughest way of lining a tipping trailer
Woodworks replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Large equipment
Mine started to peel off the tailgate from logs on a Loadhandler Its this not Speedliner so may be different http://line-x.co.uk/bedliners/ -
Best/toughest way of lining a tipping trailer
Woodworks replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Large equipment
My new (SH) truck has a sprayed liner and may well be speed liner. It would not stand a chance against those bits of granite and it is non slip! They may do different options but if anything like mine would be hopeless for that use. -
No not that thick and not especially itchy. Better to use than rockwool
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Spent some of the weekend working on my prototype.
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Best/toughest way of lining a tipping trailer
Woodworks replied to Matthew Storrs's topic in Large equipment
If the steel is getting scratched away each tip cant imagine stockboard lasting five mins. Would have thought steel strips down its length would work well. Maybe bolt them on with countersunk heads? -
We get £5 for the small Selway bags which is around 2kg. Thats selling direct and the paper bags aint cheap. Don't expect to make a fortune We call it a hobby that makes a few pounds but no money to be made IMO at least not around here.
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Very nice. Is it cherry?
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That looks a big beast. Hope it works
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Keep it simple I say Yes I made the mistake of opening up a barrel too soon You only do it once
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World's first monster truck front flip - BBC News
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Never seen anything like this before. Any idea how these bales get used?
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Good luck Richard, fingers crossed for you Retort of kiln?
