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herne

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Everything posted by herne

  1. Hi all, as title. Newly aquired 242xpg. Plug ok etc so stuck some fresh fuel in and it fired on the second pull. Ran for a few seconds then died. Same again twice more so I gave it best for the moment. Any ideas on the problem before I go for the full stripdown? Regards G
  2. As title, I have a brand new old stock 18 inch oregon prolite bar for the husky rancher (a saw I don't have) and need a similar bar for my Dolmar 112. Anyone interested in a swap? Thanks G
  3. Today: Sachs Dolmar 112 anniversary (black and silver). Looked in good nick but wouldn't start. So, off with the top cover and out with the plug. Big fat spark so no probs there. Couple of drops of petrol through the plug hole, quick with the plug and she fired like a good un. Fuel starvation then. Took carb etc off to check and it all looked ok with no furry corroded bits... So, fuel line to carb was dry.. checked inside the tank and the fuel line and bobbin were all in the bottom of the tank rolling around :-( Out they came and the fuel line is so badly perished it's coming apart with the pliers. New fuel line and bobbin, three pulls on choke and off she goes. Cut well for a few minutes. Nice balanced saw. Started revving way high on the top end though so maybe a stuck needle or I guess it may be pulling air in from one of the gaskets? Or perhaps a diaphragm let go after years sat doing nowt? If I needed a carb kit for one of these where would I start in the UK, it's a Tillotson HK. Any thoughts people? G
  4. Husky 272 xp is what we're dealing with. I've read round and it seems like you get (typically) .020-.025 squish by dropping the gasket? Final bits of stripping out tonight and found that when the piston ring collapsed it left dents in the top of the pot and a chip about 2.5mm long vertically down from the lower line of the inlet port. This piece of ring also scored right through the piston skirt for about 30mm and bounced up and down on top of the piston leaving pretty patterns... Piston obviously toast and a meteor will be ordered but have people rescued pots with this type of damage? I guess that at least some of the chip will be taken out once I radius the edges of the inlet port but probably not all. The rest of the pot looks ok i.e. no other visible/feelable scores. Thoughts? Regards G
  5. Yep, big end it is. Crank bearings already out and I can just read the serial numbers on them. Any ideas where to order genuine bearings from? Also when replacing the crank seals would you use something like hylomar on the metal to metal fit (i.e. outside of the seal to internal face of crankcase to ensure a seal?) In addition I intend porting this saw and maybe leaving out the bottom gasket in order to get a touch of squish (sounds like some orrible std) I guess I need to alter the size of the exhaust port at the top? to compensate by the same thickness as the gasket? Never ported anything before so a whole new experience. I intend to 'shotgun' the exhaust a la spud.... so it should be fruity when it's done
  6. So, got to the stage where I'm examining the crank etc. How (or can you) replace the big end bearing on the crank? Cheers G
  7. Stripping down my 272, never taken a flywheel off before. Do you use pullers or another method to accomplish removal? Don't want a damaged saw so any advice gratefully received. Thanks G
  8. Thanks both. Doing some fleabay searching. Meanwhile if anyone has a 'pre-loved to death' 272/268 or bits thereof then please shout up. Tomorrow it's the turn of the Dolmar 112 anniversary model to get some fresh fuel and a few turns over. Fingers crossed.
  9. Hi, anyone know the setting for the h/l for the 266? It's a 266xp with the ally chainbrake handle if that's any help? Thanks G
  10. Was left most of a 272 and need parts for a re-build. Required are: Exhaust Chainbrake assy and side plate starter recoil assy and cover Probably an iginition module. If anyone could point me in the deirection of good used OEM parts I would be most grateful. Regards G

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