N1ck
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Everything posted by N1ck
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I haven't really had any problems with my Tajfun processor but I can add my vote to Kilworths being a pleasure to deal with when I have technical queries or need parts for the alpine etc. Nick
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This is the other option. https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Hydraulic-Flange-Separator-Integral-Hydraulic-Spreader-Fire-Rescue-Expander-Tool/143226989346?hash=item2158fe6b22:g:BiAAAOSw7upcwCUf It has 14t spreading capacity and appears to have wider jaws but it's starting to get into more serious money and might not be the highest quality, plus there is the uncertainty of delivery timescale and import duty. Still, it is a fraction of the cost of the hydraulic felling wedge sold by Clarkes and others for effectively the same thing.
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The proper mechanical wedges only have a spreading width of 80mm so very similar. If backing up with conventional wedges which we would be you could open the cut, wedge, insert the jaws further, open the cut more, repeat. Can't be worse than beating high lift wedges till your eyeballs bleed!
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Has anyone tried using something similar to this to act as a mechanical / hydraulic felling wedge? https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/Portable-Manual-Hydraulic-Pressure-Flange-Expand-Expander-Spreader-6T-Tool-Box/192872522144?_trkparms=aid%3D555018%26algo%3DPL.SIM%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D57477%26meid%3Db2d89e1ec0384e508967dc377055791f%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D2%26rkt%3D5%26sd%3D273395688795%26itm%3D192872522144&_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851 I have a load of big beech and softwood to fell on tonnage avoiding pheasant pens etc. and would like a fancy mechanical felling wedge such as the Koller or Eder but can't justify the £580 price tag. I have thought about a low profile bottle jack but there is all the extra time and waste of timber cutting the notch for it This has a 6t force and a maximum opening of 77mm. Can anyone give their thoughts or suggest any potential problems? Ta
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What is a fair price for oak standing. It's a small parcel and varies in size and quality (24 trees about 65m3). Cheers Nick
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I've been asked to quote for a large planting job this coming autumn / winter. It is to restock a number of large clear fell sites which will be raked and burnt or mulched. The unusual bit is that they are being deer fenced and the trees are being supplied cell grown with no additional stakes and guards, so the quote is just a labour costs to plant. I am used to bare root and stakes and guards and supplying all plants and materials. Does anyone have any experience of planting cell grown stock this way and can give me any idea of how many per man per day you can expect to plant?
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Aparently Azulox can be purchased under an emergency approval for use up to the end of October. Bracken Control Group - Asulam
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I guess this means the roller/weed wiper option with Asulox is not effective as it would bruise the fronds?
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I have been asked to spray a few areas of bracken with Asulox but don't fancy doing it with a knapsack. I have looked into hiring a quad sprayer but the problem might be that the booms are set quite low for spraying paddocks etc and might not cope in tall bracken. Has anyone out there got a good set up for this sort of work? I have suggested bruising or other mechanical methods but the estate want it sprayed. How about a quad towing a roller/weed wiper? Anyone had success with this approach. Cheers
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Jeremy Was that purely with the loading arms or did you give them some assistance with the telehandler? Did you do anything to stop the log slamming in to the back stops? Cheers Nick
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Jeremy Nice work with the oak. What is the largest piece you have lifted onto your mill with the arms? I have just taken delivery of my mill (WM LT40) and I have a job taking the sapwood off some very large oak butts but don't want to bend anything just yet. Is it better to use the mill arms or lift it on with the crane? My Botex will only just lift them so they must be 2.5 tonne or thereabouts. Cheers Nick
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I'm using DOT4. I'm more worried about the effect on the paintwork / metalwork at the back of the tractor than the seals, although everything is coated in a film of hydraulic oil from a leaky valve chest so that is probably quite an effective barrier.
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There was a slight leak from the master cylinders leading to fluid weeping out behind the console in the cab but this obviously wasn't the main problem. I have stuck to DOT fluid but I am starting to worry what effect it is having, corrosion wise, on the back end of my tractor.
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After replacing both master cylinders on my Valtra 6300 within the last 12 months I think I have finally traced the persistent loss of brake fluid to the left hand slave cylinder. It's really hard to see as it is buried under the cab under a load of hydraulic hoses and caked in crud. Has anyone got any experience of replacing the slave cylinder on a Valtra and can give me any tips? Should I replace both slave cylinders while I am at it, the right hand one looks even harder to get at and at £130 a pop for a genuine Valtra part I would prefer not to. Are the seal kits worth it or do I just buy a new cylinder? When I replaced the master cylinders I asked my Valtra dealer about the seal kits (which weren't a lot cheaper than a whole new cylinder) and was advised not to bother but then they would say that. Do people still use DOT4 in the brake system as recommended by Valtra or has anyone switched to mineral oil? Cheers
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I thought about this, some sort of flexible ducting from the exhaust attached to a roof mounted extractor, but the ducting would have to be long to allow for the movement of the engine as the head travels up and down (WM LT40).
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There will be roller shutters into the enclosed part of the barn so that the mill can be pushed back in at the end of the day, so it is mainly the fumes that I was concerned about. I had wanted completely open sides but some of the local residents had concerns about the potential noise.
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I am putting up a new barn to store kit with a couple of open bays at the end to house the sawmill. Due to planning restrictions and concerns about noise I am having to board in 2 sides of the open bays (i.e. 1 long side open). The span of the 2 bays are 20' and 15' by 30' deep (i.e. an area of 1050 square feet) with a pitched roof 18' high to the apex 14' to the gutter. Can anyone see a problem with running a diesel engine mill in a space this size with only 1 open side? Cheers
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That MS200T throttle link video saved my life after I opened the handle up and small springs and linkages shot across the workbench. If I ever meet that bloke I'll buy him a beer - he must have saved me hours of swearing and probably chucking the saw across the room.
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Anyone out there know what this spec is????? If not I guess I'll just put up some stock net and plain wire and hope for the best.
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Does anyone out there have access to the NBS Buildings specifications section Q40 and can tell me what BS1722-2, type SW105B fencing is? I know that it is stock net and wire with strainers at max 150m and intermediates at 3.5m. Does anyone know if it is plane wire or barbed, one strand or 2? Does it specify what height the net should be? It is for 2 short runs around some planting we did as mitigation for some construction work and I don't want to have to purchase a set of British Standards just for this. Cheers Nick
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That's the clear bit, anyway a tidy work bench means you've got too much time on your hands or your not breaking enough stuff which probably means you're not working hard enough.
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Sorted, thanks for the suggestions. In the end I improvised a tool out of an old bar spanner and used rope as a piston stop. I didn't even need to wake the kids by using the grinder. The clutch drum and sprocket are now upgraded to 3/8 and I can fit the old sugihara bar. It really is true the bars can outlive the saw although it is due a new nose.
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Assuming I'm too much of a pussy to try the screwdriver technique on a brand new saw, does anyone know where I can get a suitable clutch tool for a 3 piece clutch that I can put on the impact driver? Cheers
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I know it depends a bit on what you are processing but what splitting knife do people have on their Tajfun 400, 4 way 4/6 way or 8 way? Cheers, Nick
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Ok, when did Husky change the design of the clutch on the 560? I want to change my new saw up to 3/8 like it's now deceased predecessor but the old clutch tool no longer fits! D'oh! Anyone know where I can get a clutch tool that fits? What do people use as a piston stop? Cheers, Nick
