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BobbyDee
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Everything posted by BobbyDee
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Thanks Spud.
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I have to replace the rear handle assembly on the above saw due to damage as per an earlier post. Part # C410-001252. Has anyone done this? I'm intending to start the repair shortly but wondered if anyone is aware of any potential pitfalls. I have the parts diagram etc and will be taking digital photos like mad during disassembly so I can refer to them when reassembly starts. Any advice would be appreciated.
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I have two of these Tanaka/Hitachi saws...the CS40EK and CS45EL. These work well, up to a point, and are quite light in weight. Spares are a problem both in availability and price, the older of my 2 is now nearly 4 years old and a replacement carb was £76 + vat. At £300+ for a new CS45 (if you can find one) I think you'd be better off looking at an Echo which would be a better buy - more expensive but well-built with masses of grunt and a good spares system in place.
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Eddy_T I have now emailed Rowena. Thanks.
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Tried eBay Matty...plenty of carbs available at 20-25 quid but not the one I needed.
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Just collected and paid for a replacement carb for one of my Hitachi saws. It's a Walbro WT 497-A which, try as I might, I could not source from anywhere else. £76 plus vat, yes that's £90+ in real money. Had tried a carb refurb kit via eBay but no good. Generally it would appear that other Walbro carb models can be had for around £25 or so, but not this one. It was a close call as to whether to just sling the saw however the dealer (Toolfix of Newton Abbot) helped me out just a bit pricewise. If anyone knows a source for a cheaper version please let me know as I have 2 Hitachis with the same model carb.
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Thanks.
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Here's the plug if any help.
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So the roughness is ok, nothing to worry about?
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I've noticed that on my Echo 620SX that as I increase revs there is a point at which the saw starts to sound a little rough. The engine note is nice and smooth to start with but then I can hear and feel a slight change at a particular point. Advice needed as to whether the mixture might need adjusting and if it does, the best way to go about this. There are 3 adjustment screws...H,L, and T and my assumption would be that L would be the one to go for but before I dive in a possibly end up worse off I was hoping for some tips from those who are more experienced in this area.
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Seem to recall that in my First Aid training that 15 minutes was the max before which a victim could be freed, any longer and they should be left until paramedics arrive as they carry drugs to offset the toxins. Only exceptions would be if there was danger of death by not releasing the victim eg severe breathing restriction or possible drowning risk or suchlike.
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No Stubby I let go of it quick-ish so as to have both hands free. I can see where you're going with that but I was limbing using my MS150 which would not have been man enough to saw me out of trouble. Like the hat idea...will try it next time out.
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Apologies if I'm preaching to the converted but.... if you're working alone with a saw make sure you have your mobile phone on your person and not, like me today, on the dashboard of the truck. I had a large, very heavy log roll against my right leg on top of my boot trapping me against another immovable large, heavy log. No pain, no injury and no damage except to my pride as I was stuck - unable to move - like Zebedee in the middle of remote and isolated woods here in sunny Devon. I was thrashing about for around 10 minutes until I eventually managed to free myself by swearing lots and lots. Yes it was funny (afterwards) but it did serve as a good reminder to have the phone much closer for use in a 'proper' emergency. Just thought it was worth a mention.
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I have been using Archer or Carlton chains (Mister-solutionsltd.com) for years as well as Oregon and apart from having to sharpen a bit more often the cheapos perform well at half the price. I suspect the cheap chains are made from a softer metal bit IMO that makes em easier to hand sharpen.
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Might try a combination of both suggestions as this is a powerful saw and I would like to be happy with the safety side of things when using it.
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Spookily similar damage. Thanks for the pics...gives me a good idea of what I may well need. Approximate quote from dealer is around £50 for parts supply only so I will probably try your method.
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Thanks for that...thought I was the only person in the universe that managed to bugger up a good saw in this manner. May well make a plate as mentioned above just for the extra support and confidence. More pics attached of repair and nearly finished article - 1 M5x20mm bolt needed to replace bent one.
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Have now attempted to repair this as my local Echo dealer is having difficulty obtaining the part number and cost from Echo UK. The handle is undamaged. I have bonded the splits in the plastic with epoxy resin and re-attached the handle. It all seems solid but I'm not 100% sure it will stay in one piece which is not ideal. There's only one way to find out and that's by using it 'in the field'. I will also wait for a definitive quote for replacement parts.
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It's definitely plastic, whether it's reinforced is unclear however I may well contact the seller, Forest & Arb, and see if a warranty claim is feasible.
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Happened when cutting through a fairly hefty downed oak and was giving it some welly ie leaning on it a bit and followed through, so to speak, and walloped an immovable object so it's user abuse I suppose but disappointing to say the least. Just wondered if anyone else had experienced this.
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Any comments/suggestions on this would be appreciated. This is the underside of my 3 month old CS620SX where the handle should be attached. Looks fairly terminal to me and a possible weak point of the saw. Pity, as it was doing so well up to this point.
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Looking to get a MS150C-E please pro's n con's
BobbyDee replied to Dorset Hedgelayer's topic in Chainsaws
I had my 150 TC-E for around 3 months now and after sorting out the oil flow (use the recommended Stihl oil) I use it quite a bit more than I thought I would. It appears to be reliable, always starts with ease. I don't climb but use it on the ground for long periods where it's lack of weight is really useful as my arms and back ain't what they used to be. If used within its capabilities it works well. It's not the most powerful saw in the world but if you want power then don't get the MS 150. It will cut 4-6", if needed, depending on the wood. There is a simple muffler mod which is mentioned in another post but this will invalidate the warranty however I've modded mine without any problems. It may or may not have some brittle plastics but I can't say I have had any breakages however I look after it - it's not cheap - and it's not been dropped. Overall I am more than happy with it for what I use it for. -
Had exactly the same problem and posted it here. Sent it back to supplier who drained the Oregon oil and refilled it with Stihl Synthplus which did the trick...it's now using about 2/3 of a tank of oil to a tank of fuel (but you need to work it at max revs) and will probably use more as it beds in. The Oregon oil I use works fine in all my other saws but not the MS150 which is a bit of a pain but there it is. I'm happy with the saw apart from this little foible.
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I just bought one as I needed a new saw to cope with regular use on big wood. So far I am impressed - I'm not a pro but I do woodland management around 3 days a week and have been using various saws for over 15 years and still have all my fingers and no scars (had some near misses and learned from them) . It's powerful in comparison to my 18" Hitachi CS45EL which has served me well and still has a use in some situations and, to be honest, I find it just a tad scary which is probably a good thing as I treat it with great respect. By heck does it cut well though and will probably get even better once bedded in. I did think it heavy when I took it out of the box but as mentioned earlier once it was assembled the balance was very good. So far it seems reliable, well-built and powerful. I'm more than happy with it.
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Geoff we're just like a bunch of kids really! My other half thinks I'm completely off my rocker with regard to saws and sawing. I spend hours cleaning, checking, adjusting and playing with the 4 I have at the mo. Once in a while I actually get to do some work with them. Deep joy.
