tree-fancier123

I occaisionally use the 131 polesaw for siding up the top of a high hedge, I know the innerds werent designed for the clatter. If they made a heavy duty extra long reach hedge cutter theyd probably want a grand, so people prefer wobbling on steps. The 87t on a 40" blade is already enough to side up 8 or 9 ft , so the 131 can just clatter along the very top

My 490 started juddering and giving a scraping noise from the sealed box. I had whacked the homulching blade on some thicker stems and thought I would have to pay the hundred odd for a replacement. My one seemed to cure itself working on low revs - stopped vibrating as bad and grinding clatter noise stopped. The pinions and other bits, Stihl special tool not much of a saving on a new gear head assembly. If you google 'beg for manuals thread' and join Arborsite and post a request, someone may be of help with the illustrated parts list and also the service manual, or maybe someone here can help. It shows how to replace the parts, should you want to try. Also if you get the gearhead part no from L&S Engineers they are somtimes cheaper on ebay, people list random parts to clear

good point - last public play area I laid ~4 cube of chip on had to be from supplier who had paperwork to say they had done a drop test on the chip and was passed as suitable for that. Too many fines in it and it's probably not fit for purpose. Always research papers on the subject for those who like information overload

There is a hidden danger of having a breakable link at the lanyard adjuster and finishing the dead tree then forgetting to remove the beakable link, going up another tree and hanging off said lanyard with cable tie still on the adjuster - well it did say stupid and brave in the other thread

Thinking about it I do understand the comments about why would it need to be reusable? As a suitable sized cable tie could be on the the lanyard adjuster, so only needs one per knackered tree. No great environmental waste of plastic

The anchor trip adjusting bar could get knocked while working, making it harder to release. Testing the setting and Duck/insulating taping it firm may help. The comments asking why you'd want reusable, surely if its just a thin cable tie and you cant fell the top out in one it will need one for each position until the dead stem is low enough. No way would I want bondage grade cable ties, the thick ones probably hold 200kg

Yes Screwfix are nearly always dearer for branded tools than Ebay or Amazon You need 1000Nm because fasteners are often corroded or overtightened requiring a nut busting torque way higher than book torque. I suggest this - cheaper than the blue RR and done my Transit hub nuts ~450Nm. The world turns, or if you're bit dopey like me sometimes and forget to check the direction before pulling the trigger - the bolt head shears off.

something involving velcro maybe, or a cable tie looped on itself as a breakable connecting loop between the lanyard karabiner and a second karabiner to the bridge or side

if it's only 1/2" dia stems the 4mm thick mulching blades are good - best on a more powerful brushcutter or clearing saw. I use FS490. Haven't tried one on my strimmer, maybe an FS130 or similar would just about have enough grunt. The great thing about mulching blades is the whole lot, brambles saplings is mashed up and just goes down flat and dissipates, usually no need to rake and burn or tip. Mind your eyes and teeth, there is a special guard for mulching with the clearing saws, but I've worked on low revs and risked it without. Hit a hidden object and blood and guts everywhere. Like the farmers who died flailing hedges. Much safer accepting less money and flipping burgers

ha ha - keep on hearing about these hats, so had to do a bit of research, apparently handy to stop telepathic people getting inside your head! I think 1/8" lead sheet would keep out the electromagnetic waves better. An early allusion to an "insulative electrical contrivance encircling the head during thought" appears in the unusual 1909 non-fiction publication Atomic Consciousness [2] by self-proclaimed "seer" John Palfrey (aka "James Bathurst") who believed such headgear was not effective for his "retention of thoughts and ideas" against a supposed "telepathic impactive impingement"

Ulterior

The biggest oak reduction I've seen was done 10/11 years ago. A huge multi stemmed beast, it does not have 'weakly attached dangerous branches' at least they don't seem to be separated after a big blow. Maybe you wouldn't want to climb above the old cuts, but we are talking 15 to 20 years before the regrowth would be big enough to need that. It is possible to swallow the received wisdom and constantly regurgitate current thinking, but the minds that have made their branch of treework text processing aren't necessarily pragmatic.

re - reducing a huge oak, if it's given a good haircut, say 2.5m approx reduction, it won't be as bad again next summer, there will be some epicormic fluffy twigs at the cuts, but the canopy will be smaller and take around 10 years to get back to where it was (hence more light for many years, clear of rooftop etc). The cuts on a reduction (and imo more so the pruning cuts on the trunk from crown lifting) are possible sites for infection from spores of decay fungi, which are mostly released in autumn. For this reason and avoiding drought stress in July/August, and when the tree is coming into leaf, I think if you want to choose when to remove growth (without getting the tree's permission) then choose June, December, January. Otherwise just get it done when the contractor can fit it in - it will be alright anyway hopefully.

As the Timberwolf 250 has been productive, providing the 90 odd hp Kubota has been looked after, keeping it running would cost thousands in having obsolete parts manufactured. Maybe 7 thousand would buy a good few more years with the mighty 250 Plenty of 90hp tractors around with 10,000 hours

just spent at least 10 hours fannying about, kept on looking up stuff on Youtube and getting my Haynes manual covered in oil, didn't use genuine Ford parts, hope it lasts. Was rattling on some cold starts and not firing on the key, fires up straight away now One thing I did which I thought was good is not bother to take the crank sensor out - I got the two cam sprockets and the fuel pump sprocket(2.4Di) lined up and locked with the timing pins, at this point I noted the crank position and the torx head for sprocket, pointing about 11 O'clock, in the video below the guy says 2 and half teeth from that should be at 12 O'clock (at least it is for 90PS. Because there are only so many links after the coloured link is on the mark for the fuel pump sprocket it means the crank sprocket can only be in one or another chain link. So I pulled it tight between the fuel pump sprocket and crank sprocket, with the 2 and half teeth from torx head at 12 O'clock, then released the tensioner, fitted rest of guides and much to my relief when all sealed up it started on the key. As a precaution I did make sure I could turn the engine over on the crank by hand to see if the valves caught. A bit long winded explanation, but was worried about disturbing the crank sensor, or not being able to release it, so didn't bother. With all that heat insulation around the sensor, seems a lot of effort. Maybe it can go wrong sometimes missing that step out and I just got lucky. Took almost three times as long as the pros, even with my 'shortcut', but am happy to have saved at least a couple of hundred garage labour.

If it all worked, this setup would have helped save a few hernias for someone 6 years ago,

the Smurf's house looks like fly agaric - Amanita muscaria. Poland - good place for a climate conference, as they are about 80% reliant on coal fired power stations

The one I linked to says dispatched from Buckinghamshire.

I'm not sure if this one listed on ebay by Briants Ltd is a mk3 or one of the earlier ones where the links crack. you could google briants ltd for their phone number and ask them, maybe quicker than emailing through ebay. Looks like they only have one left. PETZL D22A Zigzag Mechanical Prussik **CLEARANCE PRICE** WWW.EBAY.CO.UK The linked rings provide precision and fluidity when moving around. The pulley is mounted on sealed ball bearings to...

So sometimes a Leonardo da Vinci or a Mozart is born, but also plenty of these types, just so we don't forget nature can be cruel. Take the rough with the smooth, or start a civil war. No police photo of main attacker

Hemp would set my asthma off, this time of year every protester worth their salt will have a saddlebag of magic mushrooms for their altered states

If he'd have taken his climbing gear, and a flask he could have got higher up beyond the reach of the old bill and spent the whole weekend, got more news coverage, helicopter team trying to pry him off etc

If a root barier is impermeable what is the difference in terms of ground water between installing and felling? If the barrier is long and deep enough , far enough out from the walls I mean.

What about asian farmers?

HGV