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billpierce

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Posts posted by billpierce

  1. I notice its got a pussycat. I assume I should remove that, add about an 8mm-10mm hole to the muffler, pop the flywheel and shave 0.25mm off the key, refit, pop the limitters and then twiddle the high screw out a bit?
    I've never shaved a flywheel - guess that's up to you. but certainly worth getting the cat out. From memory once that's happened the outlet is plenty big enough
    • Like 2
  2.  
    Beautiful work, Bill. I love wolves, they're my favourite animal and this is a beautiful sculpture! I need to find some money so i can have you carve one for me too! [emoji56]
    I'd love that. Do shout if your serious - happy to try and make most budgets work!
  3. I did a couple of them Bill, you will need to make a few bits.
     
    Barrels are basically the same but the exhaust ports are a different shape and size.
    IMG_3913.thumb.JPG.47aa11e431e7c418b9f6c6dff91ccd34.JPG
     
    IMG_3912.thumb.JPG.fd90d81b9b97dca2c1a440aea4740c36.JPG
     
    The exhaust is Stihl no 11241400604, comes in two bits
     
    IMG_3914.thumb.JPG.125d67c7a112edd4d49ffee642732b25.JPG
     
    IMG_3918.thumb.JPG.dc711664bc32c198e2c57e1b48579d68.JPG
     
    You will need to get a couple of long m5 bolts in the two lower muffler holes which need to go on before you bolt the back part of the muffler onto the barrel, then make up two spacer tubes with two small tabs to pick up on the forward original exhaust muffler supports. Thats about it.
     
    IMG_3916_LI.thumb.jpg.7f2075d21fd95934c94ef5284a4fb502.jpg
     
    Thanks for the thorough reply!

    Did you consider drilling the cast type clip on muffler to fit bolts through? The cost of the non OEM cylinder and exhaust puts it only about 40/50 quid cheaper than getting a stihl cylinder- so but less tempting.

    Have the non OEM cylinders been ok?
  4. On 17/03/2015 at 10:42, aspenarb said:

    I have ordered the barrel and piston, I will let you know how it goes.

     

    Bob

    Facing the same problem. I know this was a while back but how did you get on Bob?

    • Haha 1
  5. Another schliesing mick ?? Just picked up a 235 to replace a 220 and can’t fault either... I would not go back to another make.
    Surely you dont mean replace? Run alongside? Well impressed that schiesling you have
  6. I've got a grcs with a damaged winch possibly for sale , from what I can make out it is only a few broken bits of plastic in the drum , it's been replaced wit a complete unit  and was keeping a spare incase of a technical takedown and looking at repairing the drum  but will never in reality get round to it . What would a back plate bollard and damaged winch be worth to anyone ? 
    PM sent
  7. I was given a florabest one. Only used it on 25" plus metalled/stoned chains. Died before I got to replace the disc and wildly inaccurate. Probably ok for very occasional home owner use, if you dont care about getting the chain absolutely stinging sharp.

    Got one of these

    WWW.EBAY.CO.UK

    This electric chainsaw sharpener grinder is made of sturdy and firm aluminum material, making it anti-rust and scratch-proof. The aluminum construction improves strength and performance. Firm & Sturdy Aluminum Chainsaw Chain Grinder.


    Knock off of the oregon pro one. Works well so far has it a year or so
    • Like 1
  8. Cheers Bill 
    You done much with the woodlands yet ??. 
    Yesh I’m looking forward to getting it going and getting some money back off it. 
    Did you try that fix on the land cruiser box ??
    Nah dave, done almost nothing with it. Still on moving out the old yard and working too much. Will get a good go on it soon as I have my act together, just done some mushy bits of burr elm.

    Auto box much the same but its booked in for a load of jobs and that's on the list, as well as new doors, exhaust, and misc oil leaks.

    Look forward to seeing you doing some metre wide cuts!
  9. Have a Google on the hidden L screw, if they are the same a 550xp's there is a brass blank on the carb that you can knock out to reveal a screw which you can adjust. Can sort idle issues out particularly

  10. Aye, I wear my harness pretty low, below my hips. Never really found a harness that doesnt fall down or when done up tighter isnt comfy tbh.

    The braces definatley help alot, especially when hanging bigger saws of your harness, but the TM one seems a bit of an arse to take off.

  11. Get sore hips with the TM. Which seems to be turning into sciatica sometimes. Worse when on stems and spikes.

     

    Anyways, bought the tm shoulder straps to alieviate this and much more comfortable. But very annoying to put on and off? Am I missing something? Cant see to put them on like a pair of braces once in the harness, have to put the lot over my head and clip to back hoop.

  12. Yep 256 can take 1/4 sprocket at 10" panther bar. Think its the same one that's in my 2511 that fits. Chainsawbars.co.uk will know - but I think it's not the same bar mount as duc254 which has the tensioner in a fractionally different place ( sigh ) .

    Chainsaw bars sell the sprockets and I think it's the same as a stihl electric 1/4 sprocket  ( same on duc 254 245 and back handle duc.)

    Tbh though its doesnt give a faster cut just smoother. Dont think the leccy saws have the chain speed available to make a difference in speed ( unlike the 1/4 conversion on a 2511)

    • Like 1
  13. 9 hours ago, spudulike said:

    My experience is measuring at the base of the bore and never seen 40 thou on any machine. That is massively worn!!! 7-15 is fairly typical with 20 on a well used old machine being normal!

    The cheapest fix would be to get a decent quality piston...OEM, Meteor, Hyway, Episan and fit that making sure it is set to rev as a 350 would be. Check the plating is still good on the bore and lightly hone to accept the new piston.

     

     

    Nikasil looks ok on the pot. Any good places for rings? Only seem to be cheapos from China on Ebay or cabers from the states   

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