Bob_z_l

My mate the upholsterer used to use Bambi "silent"  

Very quiet...made less noise than some kettles. 

Not sure if many made it across the channel though. They are 220/240V if that helps?

Hi Rob, 

  I'm a fan of your system.  It seems to work well and after doing a search of the site, finding a price, logging in and seeing it drop. It does give feeing of being rewarded/ appreciated. 

Cheers

9 minutes ago, Squaredy said:

Yes I also followed that lead.  I rang a John Deere dealer but they couldn't help. And if you try and buy it from that website it is a firm in the USA who seem to offer a manufacturing service.  I would be better off buying it from NZ and at least know it is going to work.

 

I am sure there is someone around who has this part, but I am struggling to find them.

 

Thank you for trying though.

Is this closer??

Just now, Squaredy said:

Yes I also followed that lead.  I rang a John Deere dealer but they couldn't help. And if you try and buy it from that website it is a firm in the USA who seem to offer a manufacturing service.  I would be better off buying it from NZ and at least know it is going to work.

 

I am sure there is someone around who has this part, but I am struggling to find them.

 

Thank you for trying though.

Sorry. Didn't get that. On the plus side...it does look like a part used across multiple platforms. Good luck with your search. 

10 hours ago, Squaredy said:

I need to replace the chain drive sprocket on my Peterson Dedicated Wide Slabber.  This is what it looks like.

 

Peterson in NZ have offered me one at a cost of £220 or so, and three weeks wait.  I have also tried the agent in the UK (Riko - they suggested I try Peterson direct); and I have tried Rob at Chainsawbars who could not help.

 

Any more suggestions?  The number stamped on it is F046098, which I have tried to track down as well but no luck.

 

If I have to pay the £220 and wait three weeks I will, but what is the betting there is someone in Europe who stocks this part for another use if only I can find them?!

First google search comes up  with this.

Looks very similaar...Item 14. 

https://avs.parts/deere/sprocket/f046098/

1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

I am considering just getting a roll. Since Ive no long bought a 60" Panther set up it included the 64" Bar and 2 chains. One was the Oregon skip and the other the hyper skip. Personally Im not that blown away by them and since I liked the Stihl Ripping Chains on my 48" Chilaskan I've just bought the Stihl Chain in the pic above to try out on the 64" Bar. I'll then be able to make a better comparison out of the three chains and see what works best for me and also different species. Then I might buy a roll of that. But til then I'll suck it and see. 

 

Im gonna be re-sawing some very dry Ash Slabs from 6" and cutting in half to get as close to 2 x 2.5" boards out of them for some kitchen worktops. Ive a feeling the Oregon Chains, most likely the Hyper Skip will be best here, will just be a hell of a lot of sharpening. 

I'll keep an eye out for your review.

I though the hyper was going to be less teeth to sharpen? Or that is what I got from Sauls vid. Made me want to get a skip for my Chilaskan 👍

41 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Hitting metal will not just bugger the teeth,
the shock with transfer to the drive sprocket and bar sprocket.
I’ve had .404 rim sprockets shatter after hitting metal.
If in doubt use a .404 duromatic bar

Cheers @Rough Hewn   The "shock" was something I suspected which is why I mentioned it. As said, I think the failures are mainly due to me expecting/asking too much from the setup. It's  a good setup  but not bob-proof.

Yes  .404, that was one of my plans. Small hiccup was that I already had the 661 and lo-Pro bars.

I will in due course upgrade the bar to fit the panthermill then I'll be unstoppable :-)

11 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

What bars? Pitch? Length?
I’ve never greased any of my GB or other bars ever.
A few weeks ago I had a chap in who was interested in the panther mill GB bar set up.
I then realised I’d never even flipped the bar…
For over two years of brutal abuse, my main go to mill.
Didn’t look too bad either so left it on.
Mine are all .404 and pretty bomb proof

Cheers @Rough Hewn and @Rob D

I have (now) 2 x 42"  3/8 lo-pro's They both have replacement nose sprockets. First one (I believe) because no grease at all and  a couple of hundred metres of milling ant it just failed. I lost all chain tension and the sprocket had disappeared. The plates had splayed game over.

Second nose sprocket on new bar went after several hard months of milling mainly Oak and Beech. 

Have 2 rim drives and 2 saws that they rotate between.  I try to keep things clean with a regular blast off the air line.

I have also , unfortunately , made contact on both bars with  metal. Enough to snap one chain and remove teeth on the other. 

Deep inside the wood and , I believe, out of the range of my metal detector. 

The bars have lost a bit of paint, but there is no apparent wear barring a small nick where the chain broke. I have tried to re-dress this to stop any further problems.  

The .404   have is on a 46" sugi /881 and is not a ripper chain but  so far 80m of Cedar, Larch and Oak. No problems.

Please don't get me wrong....I don't have issue with the Lo-Pro but think compared to a regular 3/8 or .325  and definitely the .404 the Lo-Pro is quite a lot more delicate. 

I  do realise this and so try and treat them accordingly. I don't rush them or push hard.  But do love the narrow kerf and the act on larger pieces it can give me an extra board. 

The reason for the thread was that my grease gun made all the right sounds but wasn't applying any grease. Same in my mind as  having a sump full of oil but a failed oil pump.....it was only going to end one way!

Thanks as always for all your great advice. 
I will take it all on and recheck what I'm doing as it will inevitably be user error  on my part.  

Cheers   Bob

 

12 hours ago, openspaceman said:

If @Bob_z_l wants he can borrow mine as I only use it occasionally for Husqvarna clutches

Thank you. A very kind offer. I have splashed out on one of the metal ones in the hope that £14 trumps £4.99

Thanks  Bob

2 hours ago, Mark Bolam said:

What grease gun (syringe) have you got?

The only one I’ve found that works is the original metal barrelled Oregon one.

 

All the rest have been utterly useless.

Thank You. I have a generic one from Tree and Grass

2 hours ago, adw said:

I have used these for many years, top tip if you put a thin rag over the grease hole and push the grease nozzle through the rag into the hole, this seals the sides, always works.

 

This looks the business. Cheers

9 minutes ago, Stubby said:

Milling is maybe a different kettle of fish . Working on the ground be it in the woods or a groundy I have found , over the years that its best not to grease them . I have had a few nose sprockets let go and since I stopped greasing all has been fine . It depends on the environment you are working in but sometimes dirt and dust can stick to the grease making it into a sorta grinding paste shortening the life span . Just me perhaps ...

Hi @Stubby  I get you. I used to do the same with chains on my Motorbikes. Too much lube attracts , as you say. Thank goodness for o-rings.

My experience with my GB nose sprockets is they seem to dry up and become a metal on metal very quickly without loads of grease. Then bang.

Just now, openspaceman said:

nowadays I didn't think most  bothered to grease the nose, if it spins and you are worried about it then dip it in chain oil and spin it again.

Thanks, to explain,  I've had a couple of failures on my GB milling bars.

Maybe getting a bit over sensitive but it seems to me putting grease in rather that relying on oil seemed to make them last.
 

Cheers

Hi All,

  What am I doing wrong. The Greasing syringe ( for lack of a better description) keeps getting blocked.

It gives similar resistance to me applying grease but it isn't reaching the nose sprocket.

Has anyone got a better tool/device for doing this. Or am I expecting too much from a £4 thing?

17 minutes ago, openspaceman said:

No and as @Rough Hewn says it has been about since at least 2015, though I did not know.

 

 

Shows it working

 

 

Just re-watched it. 

I like the extra long dogs to stop the exhaust setting fire to the log ( I assume)  

Hi Rob,  @Rob D
 Didn't know where else to put this.

Recently I have had cause to use your Whatsapp service and to use the regular email contact systems.

On both occasions (you, I believe) responded extremely promptly and were extremely helpful.

I was dissuaded form converting my GB 3/8 to.325   Thanks for this ... and was separately directed to correct Stihl Nose Sprocket, despite my local dealer not being able to even give me a hint at the right one.

Thank you once again and I hope you continue to do well, as your customer service (to even the silly old farts like me) is absolutely TIPTOP!

Cheers

Bob

I hope you've had a smashing day and moved on a load of stock.

👍

I cheap out.  Old petrol and 2 mix in a pot with an old paint brush to apply. 

Wipe down after a few mins with paper towel  then a blow down with the air line.  Generally clears everything. 

1 hour ago, Rough Hewn said:

Yes, Stihl motomix.
It’s pre mixed with Stihl ultra,
Comes in 55 litre drums,

Hi Saul,

 How do you dispense out of the 55's. 

Is there some  pump or tap you use to fill a combi?

Cheers

Bob

5 minutes ago, Tommy_B said:

Hasn't it fallen over?

apparently no.

From Wiki....

The two giant sequoia drive-through trees have both fallen:

• Wawona Tree fell in 1969 in Mariposa Grove, Yosemite National Park
• Pioneer Cabin Tree fell in 2017 in Calaveras Big Trees State Park^[

2 hours ago, muttley9050 said:

12 hours ago, Bob_z_l said:

I had a cheap grinder it's ok on everything except the ripping chains for milling.
 
I recently bought a Portek and the ability to set the angles correctly has transformed my sharpening. The Granberg still goes into the woods with me but the bench s master.
 

Portek Ultra ChainMaster MK4 chain sharpener – FR Jones & Son

WWW.FRJONESANDSON.CO.UK  
 

Read more  

That's well priced. Is it all metal construction and good with Milling chains?

Yes. Cast....something. The motor is quiet and housed in aluminium.

Yes, I would say so.  Have a look....here is the manual.

Ultra Mk4.pdf

Available on their web.

12 hours ago, muttley9050 said:

 

The time has come for a new bench mounted chain grinder.

Been looking at what's available.

Oregon grinders seem to be popular.

They have the compact for £60. I assume by the price that this isn't up to much.

They have the professional compact for around £200 and the professional for around £300. Then the professional hydraulic but not interested in that.

Is there much difference in ability, accuracy and ease of use in these two or will the £200 one do the job?

Or does anybody else have any other recommendations? £300 Ish is my upper limit.

Will mostly use it for 190 link Milling chains.

Managed with a Granberg precission 12v grinder till now but bored of the faff and want something easier.

Cheers chaps.

Opinions gratefully recieved.

 

I had a cheap grinder it's ok on everything except the ripping chains for milling.

I recently bought a Portek and the ability to set the angles correctly has transformed my sharpening. The Granberg still goes into the woods with me but the bench s master.

4 hours ago, Billhook said:

Swallows lining up ready for off today.

They sit around for the last few weeks of North Wind and cloud and then decide to leave as soon as the sun comes out!  Never did understand birds (of any variety!)

 

 

Similar from last night.... we've had 3 nests in the stables...2 clutches from each. Reckon this'll be mst of them getting set to go home.

8 hours ago, Macpherson said:

Hi, I searched the interweb some years ago for the same profile extrusion as the Alaskan and found nothing out of hundreds of designs to let me to do a cheap length extension... but I notice that the Panther uses a universal common easily available profile which as far as I can see would do for the Alaskan parts in which case technically as the bolt positions wear you could use any of the other 3 slotted sides to extend the life of the rails. Not only that but you could decide to have them any lengthy you like.

 

I agree with you that the ' good old USA ' engineering is a bit rough n ready and when one of my clamps recently snapped I was disappointed to see what looked like a quality alloy casting snapped like a biscuit, easy to fix with a weld and an extra welded brace... but I bought the ' improved ' clamps anyway, which I don't expect to be a problem but they do leave the top of the u bolt very near the oil tank and lose you 1/2" plus in clearance.

 

On putting my mill back together I did some careful measurements and found the increment markings to be pretty accurate but I'd be willing to believe that that may not always be the case.

 

As far as the skids are concerned I  remembered that when I bought my mill there was a wheels kit available to take the place of the skids to reduce interference and friction on knarly stuff, don't know if this or the concept of this would  help anyone with either mill, cheers.

 

Roller Brackets | Granberg International

GRANBERG.COM

 

I was looking at adding roller wheels to my panther mill. 

I was going t use cheap skateboard wheels on an extra long M8( I think) slotted in the rail. 
Might need to bush out the bolt... to be seen as I've not done it yet.

Cheers

26 minutes ago, Stubby said:

I buy Aspen 4 or the Husqvarna equivilent and mix at 50:1 with Red Line Racing 2T oil .  Mainly because i have quite a bit of Red Line kicking about .

Cheers @Stubby  Makes me feel a great deal more at ease. Did you have to re-tune your saws a some others have said?   

p.s.  I've just read more on the Stihl site. Their Moto Mix uses Ultra HP so I might go that route when pushed.