the village idiot
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Everything posted by the village idiot
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Husky 550 with 15" Husky 560 with 15" and 18" Stihl 462 with 18" All have larger sprocket fitted for extra chain speed.
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I like a system that can deal with any size of log all in one go. Digger with grab and two chainsaws fits the bill for me.
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Ha! Been there, done that.
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That's a good shout, thanks. Would be more comfortable with that arrangement.
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Agreed, I am fairly awful at freestyle sharpening which is why I got the granberg. It's an excellent little machine.
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Lots of build up on the chain actually. Do you think this could be a factor?
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Thanks a million for all the suggestions. I think we have narrowed it down to either the sprockets, the bar oil or moving house. I'll run some experiments and let you know how I get on.
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Yes, I am loathe to change to mineral oil if at all possible. I don't really like spraying it all over the woodland. Will probably do a trial with it though to see if it helps.
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I agree. I have started using a granberg filing machine which gets the tooth length and angles spot on. I thought tooth length variation might have been the issue but no joy.
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Arborol generally gets a pretty favourable write up in terms of chain and bar wear but I am up for trying something different. Do any of you get good results with any other plant based oils?
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It all goes into waste skips. Quite an expense but we like to keep the decks clear.
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Genius! I can't believe I haven't tried that yet. Standing on one leg with a curly wurly tucked behind my left ear and one eye swiveled towards the new moon had no positive effect whatsoever.
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I've moved house but don't think this has had a massive effect on my chainsaw technique.
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Interesting, thanks Stubby. If that is the case they could probably do with a change. Another thing to try.
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Yes it's quite frustrating. We are doing something wrong I just can't get to the bottom of it.
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That's only 3 day's worth Khriss. We'll do 10 times that over the course of a season.
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That's a good idea. They'd have to be using it for the same job and I don't know anyone who does as much 'freehand' ringing up as we do.
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Yes, plenty of bar flippage going on. The sprockets look OK but I'm not really an expert. My chainsaw fixer man doesn't think that they are the issue. We have tried to rule out all the usual suspects and are starting to wonder if it is anything to do with the way we hold the saws, exert pressure in the cut etc? The saws do work extremely hard whilst we are ringing up firewood. Maybe there is some sort of heat issue? There is no blueing of the bars though.
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Interesting! I've never tried that before, definitely worth a go.
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Happening on all saws, Husky and Stihl, all are oiling OK with oilers turned up to max. We are careful to match the chains with the bars. Would love to get 3 or 4 chains to a bar. Currently get half a chain to a bar!! We have double dawgs on the saws, could this be encouraging us to force the saw through the cut too much?
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Hi Folks, Wondering if anyone can help with an issue I am having over the last couple of years. I seem to be getting through an awful lot of chainsaw bars, especially whilst ringing up logs during the spring/summer. I'm getting wear inside the groove of the bars after only one or two chain sharpens. The chain starts tilting in the bar and the saw stops cutting. I'm not even taking any paint off the bars before they become unusable. We are pretty diligent with bar dressing and chain sharpening/tensioning so don't think that is the issue. We use Stihl chains, Sugihara and Rolomatic bars and Arborol chain oil. Anyone out there know what I am doing wrong?
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Yes, things are moving on. As people manage to detach themselves from some of the more ridiculous religious diktats the world starts to open up for them.
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The Arab world used to be the epicenter of progress in mathematics and scientific inquiry until some 'enlightened' and influential cleric decided that it would displease Allah to continue down this path. Science became a sin. The whole region has been set back centuries because it's population has been ordered to stay on the right side of a non-existent entity. Tragic really.
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Good question. I have absolutely no idea. If the tree is leaning I would be surprised if any angle of cut would cause the tree to come back in the opposite direction. Very strong winds aside, this would be defying the laws of physics. There are certain tools available that allow you to encourage a tree to fall against a small lean but in my view if the lean is significant it's a fools errand to try and fell against the lean unless you have winching equipment.
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I'm with MattyF on this one. I find that doing an angled back cut down to meet the back of the bore puts you in a better position to make your retreat, especially when cutting close to the ground. It's probably not a good idea to bore your letterbox right out the back of the tree as this could leave you with too little holding timber. You just want to remove the center of the hinge. I have always used conventional or open gobs. Never tried a humboldt.
