Matthew Storrs
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Everything posted by Matthew Storrs
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Tidy fencing Mikey! Particularly like the rabbit fence. I use the mixed split sweet chestnut- some are quarter split half round or full round. Most customers seem to quite like the slightly rough look (or perhaps they like the price!)compared to the machined posts. The strainers are ex telegraph poles. Did you ever get wrag to make you a headstock so your knocker will swing round? I know you were thinking of it.
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Wow that tractor is in cracking condition for its age- I assume you keep it indoors?
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I will almost bet my hat its not coming from the filler cap but actually from the fuel line where it passes out through the fuel tank- just solved exactly the same problem on my 254XP- I thought it was the filler cap but the fuel just trickled down that way from the fuel line.
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Christ that must have taken an eternity:001_smile:
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what model is that John? never seen one like that- is it quite rare? what sort of weight are they?
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few more- fencing to keep in Soay sheep- funny things they are. last one is a typical scenario on top of a Devon bank- knocked the posts in with the post rammer on my digger
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cheers mate. yes I think the tractor makes a better post rammer carrier for the awkward sort of jobs I get as its easy to just look over your shoulder to manouvere the tractor in to tight spots. Also most of my jobs are within 15 miles or so, so not sure I,d benefit from the faster road speed of a mog as much as I think. yes got the post rammer last year- it used to go on my old zetor 7045 but the front wheels spent most of the time off the ground:laugh1:
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a job I was on back in the winter. Nice to be fencing off Dartmoor for a change- never had such easy ground!
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few pics of my new zetor out on a fencing job- tis a nice heavy tractor which is good for fencing on steep ground.
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Do you still charge that rate for a whole days worth? If so fair play:thumbup1:
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I think Atlas are made by Graham Edwards, I know if you phone up Atlas , Graham Edwards answers the phone and puts you through to them:laugh1:. You'd get a nice lot of chip in a 10x5!
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Could you elaborate on why the trailer is not good? Cheers
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Josh, perhaps bigger than you considered but you could get an Atlas tipper 10x5 for less money than your dealer has quoted you. They seem to get good reviews and have many features for the price. Just a thought....
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I spent last week driving a 1 year old l200. On the face of it was quite a nice vehicle, towed reasonably well and nice quiet drive but the clutch, you couldn't back the trailer up more than 20meters without it stinking. I very rarely smell the clutch on my defender no matter now much I'm towing or manouvering.
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Too late now, but you probably would have seen fresh shiny marks on the nuts if it had been undone recently by someone. Put some super glue over the nuts so its easy to see if someone trys it again!
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I don't think there is a right or wrong way given that each has its advantage, I personally prefer the morticed strut, it looks neat and the mortice is always minimum of 50mm wide with the bottom of the mortice sloping in line with the strut. I'd be interested to see how much quicker the chainsaw and nail method is, really you need to pilot drill the hole for the nail if its 8" else you split the strut up. I can knock out a tidy mort ice in less than 5 mins (usually 2-3mins) with my big chisel. I do know a very successful and big fencing contractor round our way who does it Doobins way and to be fair his fencing is very strong and tight- the struts are nice and low with a retaining wire so bullocks don t tend to rub it too bad anyway. Also in crap timber the first place it will rot will be ground level anyway so a rotting strut will be quite a long way behind that.
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I quite often do what I call a half box strainer- knock strainer in then about 6 foot away I knock a stake in leaving 2ft out of the ground, then mortise the strut into the strainer braced against the top of the 2ft stake then do the retaining wire back to the base of the strainer, I nearly always use telegraph poles and sweet chestnut so I don't worry about stuff rotting too much. I know a nailed strut does the job but I do like the look of a neatly mortised strut so I do that. Also I have a big chisel which is 50mm wide and designed to be hit with a lump hammer (similar to a bolster but for wood) so it doesn't take long to notch out the mortise.
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I like a nice big flat stone buried and then I lever the strut into it and bang it down- wedges proper tight in there. I don't want you to think we're picking your work apart when youv'e been brave enough to post pictures. But those short struts and high placement are just asking for trouble if you pull up the netting tight enough. Had many posts pull out of the ground in the early years- so frustrating when your just pulling up the wire tight at the end of the day! I like to over engineer all my stock fencing with 8ft 8-9 inch telegraph pole strainers banged in and box struts in weak ground or just standard strut in good ground- reckon the wires would snap before the strainers shifted. All good fun the fencing game- so many people have different techniques.
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Not round my way- but each to their own! Seen a lot worse then that where farmers have had a go!
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Don't you find there isn't enough wire between the verticles to pull up hundreds of meters with just gripples. Any length more then 50meters I use two clamps to pull together mid strain- then join with gripples and use the gripple tool to final tweak each wire once the clamps are off. Agreed that the clamps need a to kink the wire a bit to hold the tension. Even with my drivall ones they can slip even though the bolts are done up proper tight.
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There is a new Hitachi out now with 5ah batteries and mega torque too. Might be worth a look. If have an older hitachi which is pretty good, also got a AEG from BandQ of all places with 2x 3ah lion batteries for £150. Drills a 20mm auger into gateposts no problem. Thought that was quite a good deal. Will probably try the makita next on the back of all these threads.
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3 days ago- had to be one of my favourite sounds- summer!
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I was under the impression the springs had to be uprated?
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There has to be some sort of handling charge for ordering and picking up the materials as its usually an extra trip and time on top of the job. If he must see the exact price, give him the price you pay for them but be sure to add a decent amount to make up for all handling and lack of discount you'd otherwise get. To be honest its not his business what you pay the supplier.
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When the engine has warmed up give the top radiator hose a squeeze- if its hard the thermostat isn't opening. Also I think the water would boil pretty quick if it didn't open.
