AngusMF250
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Everything posted by AngusMF250
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The important thing in what you ve said above is the Fordson Major. I cannot find data for the ordinary and new majors, but the higher output Power major only puts out 24.4 litres of flow per minute. Most decent splitters of about 10-14 tonne pressure will require a flow rate of about 30 to 50 litres per minute? So you either have to look at getting a more costly PTO driven hydraulic splitter, or a lower pressure / tonnage splitter, or a differant tractor. Or a PTO driven spiral splitter, but I think there are safety concerns with these. I may be wrong about the above, but in my case, I have an MF 250 that puts out 53 l/m, and an AMR 12 tonne splitter that needs 35 l/m. I ve a friend that has a bigger tractor, but a lower pump rate and its not fit for the AMR, hopes this helps!
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I know, its unbelievable Soctland exports some wood to Sweden, but I think this is just a trade of for the Swedes to sell us their paper. I ve stayed in Karlstadt, really nice town, nice people!
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He s doing his homework. The price also varies in Scotland, but is probably less than what they pay south of the border. However, we do have ports in the east of Scotland with strong links to Scandinavia. Infact you ll be surprised to hear that at one port, a boat load of timber leaves once a week for Sweden and brings back paper (1 tonne rolls)
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Show me your firewood storage/shed/rack......please :-)
AngusMF250 replied to Stihl4Life.DK's topic in Firewood forum
Here mine -
From what I could gather you are better looking at a larger manufacturer, and the makes that I shorlisted were; Riko, Wallenstein, Thor, Balfour, AMR (Ryetec). Remember to check your tractor output Vs the splitter oil flow requirement (if your looking at hydraulic).
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First thing is to find out how much flow you tractor has (Tractor data dot com) and find out what the splitter needs. Some of the better known makes are Thor, Riko, Balfor (which I think comes out of the same factory as Riko ?), Wallenstein and AMR (sold by Ryetec). The Rikos look to be very nice splitters and their prices seem good. I have an AMR 12 tonner and it is very capable of splitting the toughest Elm.
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I have an AMR, cost nearly 1500 quid, splits up to 1.2m. Have a look at Wallensteins, advertised on this page.
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What about Beech? Oak doesnt grow where I live, so it must be crap Have you tried Holly? That is a good firewood, but not so abundant.
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Exactly. But they will find out soon enough after buying all the gear thats its been a terrible mistake.
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Naa, Scandinavian stoves are cast iron and better designed. We have a Jotul F 118 that heats half the downstairs and all of the upstairs, in a fairly large house. No pipes, boilers, pumps and complications, with plenty heat and ability to cook during power cuts.
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Naa, I wouldnt entertain a Hycrack. For a PTO shaft and a metal table, they are over priced and dangerous.
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That Bullerjan is a beauty, love the style, my brother has seen one for real and you see the tubes round it, he says they draw in cold air from the bottom and blow it hot out the top. I would be getting one of these or a Scandinavian manufacted stove.
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I recently purchased a splitter. Things to consider; What is the flow rate on your tractor (see tractor data.com if you have no data available). What is the required flow rate of the splitter you wish to buy. Just my advice but I would look at the big manufacturers, so you can get spares and back up; AMR (sold by Rytec), Thor, Balfor and Wallenstein. I have an AMR, 12 tonne, it cuts through tough Elm like butter. If your no willing to spend the money, then you may buy a pile of poo ! Wallensteins probably represent the best value for money. Just my opinion but hope it is useful.
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What is a good firewood then? Beech, Ash, Elm, all work well for me.
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Excuse my ignorance, but I used to think there was no differance between Sweden and Norway, but after staying in both countries, I found Sweden very friendly and we go back there every other year for our holidays.
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I ve never burnt Poplar, but appart from Oak (which we dont get here, it doesnt really grow (too windy and not enough summer)) Beech is said to be one of the best firewoods. Would Poplar be better than Beech?? Id take a guess it more lively but wont burn so long.
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Seems like a good enough plan, if you can change out the head for tougher wood. Poplar must be easy to split, for a hardwood
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Well, that sorts that one out If you put a poplar log on the fire, how long will it last in comparison to a Beech log?
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Tend to agree with that, excuse me if I m wrong, but do most English people not even see themselves as being European?
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They are not in the Economical union, but are European and along with the Swiss are in the broader European community.
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As regards the above 2 posts, I worked in Germany and its funny that they have the least working hours per week in Europe, yet have the highest productivity. From my own point of view, and I may be wrong, its because they are more advanced politically and their unions and government will often work together, same with the Norwegians.
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Are you sure? I thought it was a softwood. Poplar is used for making matches!
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There wont be a problem crossing over to a smaller sized flue. The taller the chimney the smaller the liner should be, so if you have, say, a 12ft high chimney, 7" would be fine. If you have a 20ft chimney a 6" would do, 30ft chimney 5" would be fine. I have a Jotul 118 (black bear) in a downstairs room, it heats half the downstairs and 4 bedrooms up stairs, it burns 24/7 from late October to early April. No boiler, just convected heat. Takes a 60cm log, so thats half the cutting, splitting and stacking!! Cheap way of heating the house and as we get a lot of winter storms, power cuts dont effect us.
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5 tonne per Poplar Tree! Pretty good for a softwood, must be a huge tree !
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In Germany, Sweden, Norway and Finland they dont really have estates, most of the forests (all of these countries are predominately forested) are owned by the local community councils. If people want to cut firewood, they have to apply for a liscense and are assigned areas, they have to have proof of chainsaw certification and a training course in managing their areas of use. Seems like a good system to me.
