spudulike

I had two 440 kits once, one Hyway and one Meteor, both had a badly formed inlet port in EXACTLY the same way hence my comment. 

My normal reaction would be tank vent, coil failure, coil gap too large and low compression. You have covered most of these bar the coil to flywheel gap. 

Try storing the saw in the shade after use as if the parts you have used are OEM and fitted correctly and the compression is good, the issue is most likely the heat expanding the fuel in the tank, forcing it past the carb needle valve so worth checking the diaphragm, needle valve and spring assembly.

1 hour ago, Stubby said:

Air leak from somewhere . 

Sorry Andy....it is a new fangled battery thingy🙄😉

It could be an issue with the bearings in the cutter head or the blades binding a bit. Try a bit of lubrication.....for the machine, not you👍

A decent 372xp will make 170psi cold if pulled over multiple times. A well used one will make 150+. If you drop the base gasket on one, expect around 185psi.

No idea on your Meteor kit, I would have expected it to be 150+. I had a low compression reading on a 372 wearing a stone cutter 375 cylinder but that turned out to be due to the design of the combustion chamber on the larger cylinder.

There isn't much that can go wrong, ring end gap, piston to bore fit, decomp valve.

If the cylinder is dry then expect compression to increase dramatically once there is fuel oil mix around the ring and piston.

I think the Meteor cylinders are rebranded Hyway cylinders.

I have used something called Google, not sure if it is mainstream yet🤔😉

Hugo is your man, very helpful.

The chain link fence is most likely the original boundary if your house was built over the last 50 years or so. The deeds often state that a fence of this type will form the boundary.

A very loose rule is that in a reasonable percentage of cases, the boundary owned by the house will be in the right facing the house but this isn't always the case but is most common.

On the deeds, the "T" denotes ownership, "H" denotes a shared ownership.

If the link fence matches up with the rear garden, this would also lean me to think it is the boundary.

You can cut the hedge face, top and roots  back on your side but if it dies or causes injury etc you may be found liable.

Long and short, cut it back to a point where it will survive and grow back to form a green barrier. Neighbours can be dicks, use this period to "make hay" and get the hedge in to good order and use the link fence as a guide. 

A very old thread me old mucker, some decent guys posting many years before four guys thought Arbtalk was an online version of The Robert Preston Show!!

The OP doesn't say how far from the house it is! Cut the top off, dig out the roots as far as possible and glyphosate the new growth. That will do it if it is repeated until completely gone. 

It is called adding patina....rust in this case👍

That doesn't look good. I guess that is soil dust which will be pretty abrasive.

You may get away with re-ringing it but I guess it needs pulling apart to see where the wear is.

You could be burning oil from a leaking head gasket rather than bore wear, seems more likely at 200 hrs and the oil could be entering the bore from the oil ways up to the tappets and cam.

The options are stripping and fitting the new gaskets or sticking in a Locin engine like the previous fella said then rebuild the thing over the winter as a nice little project.

Check the compression or at least, pull the exhaust off and check the piston looks OK through the exhaust port.

The 017 is old and a typical homeowner saw with both these things meaning the saw will have been abused and/or run on old or near fuel.

Have you checked the bar rails are level and not splayed and the end sprocket is free running with no play? Is the rim drive in decent condition.

Perhaps trying a new bar, chain and rim drive or at least one of another saw may give further info.

Good luck getting the new seals back in, they are fiddly little feckers and bloody expensive. 

Try a bit of JB weld or any other high temperature epoxy. I did this on my Qualcast mower years ago and that is still going strong. I think I just used araldite on that.

Clean both surfaces and degrease with brake cleaner.

I had one once, got the thing going and it started to set fire to my lawn that was tinder dry and was due to the down firing exhaust pipe outlet.

I believe I fitted a piston for another model saw in the thing as the original was toast. 

Anyway, it worked just fine.

Kok all me old mucker...15k posts....who would have thought👍

Glad the 395 is still bopping along nicely. On the 560, ADW is probably on the money on this one. 

If that doesn't work, WD40/GT85....open the throttle, no choke and get a couple of light squirts down the back of the carb....after removing the air filter.

Is the exhaust outlet standard or pointing at the brake handle?

The grey plug colour is where the piston has overheated and the aluminium has vaporised and spattered on to the plug. This is the stage after being white (overheated).

The piston has partially melted although the saw has continued to run. I would say that the melted aluminium has probably worked its way down to the main bearings. Typically this can cause the saws bottom end to make a "hollow" rumbling sound, I had the same on my 357.

What do you need to do the job - experience or/and a decent dollop of engineering skills.

The main difficulty is how you do the actual splitting of the cases -  I did do a tutorial on a 660 some time ago on my "whats on your bench" thread. I have pics of what I used - a BIG G clamp, a splitter - donated by ADW (Many thanks) and a homemade splitter - two pieces of angle iron.

Don't use a big hammer on it, a positive is that this machine is BIG and is therefore easier to get splitters in. Once you have all the bearings and crank in, the crank will feel tight so bash each crank end with a copper mallet to take any stress out and the crank will become much smoother to turn - like silk.

Should be "An Iron"🙄

In addition to my earlier post, a repaired seized saw should be pressure and vac tested, the carb overhauled and then tach tuned. You need to ensure that the reasons for the seize are eliminated otherwise it is likely to go pop again.

These tests will also ensure the new seals are sealing well.

On the running lean issue, are you seeing the idle racing, light plug colour, flat out revs too high?

Probably main bearings. The noise of bad main bearings resembles leaving the saw running on a concrete hard standing, a heavy rumble from the bottom end. 

With the top end off, the crank spinning should be super smooth when you rotate it holding on to the con rod with the piston not fitted.

Possibly debris has made their way in to the main bearings and won't show as play in the crank....if you do fit new, ensure you "de-stress" the bearings by whacking the crank on both ends after putting the cases back together again.

I have burnt laburnum and can confirm that it didn't kill me👍not saying it isn't dangerous but burning it isn't like catching bullets in your teeth.

A very heavy wood.

3 hours ago, MattyF said:

I’ve got no end of problems at the moment with saws that have sat …. Some of these are nearly new saws too

Shame you don't have a guy two miles down the road to sort them overnight.....good times👍You helped me get started in an indirect sort of way...thanks.