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Squaredy

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Posts posted by Squaredy

  1. 39 minutes ago, topchippyles said:

    Will phone guys at tck rewinds tomorrow and get the number for you,Took a motor in for my cross cut a few months back to get rewound and cost to much and they put me onto the chap down in llangorse and i rang him and he buys and sells 3 phase wood machines.Does repairs as well i think and tck lad says he is very good.What make and model is the thicknesser 

    Thank you that would be great.  It is a White PR 30" thicknesser.

  2. 5 hours ago, topchippyles said:

    There is a firm up in ross on wye that i have had dealings with before and also a guy down in llangorse brecon who over halls woodworking machines and i can get both numbers for you if it helps Squaredy.

    Hi Topchippyles, thanks for your input.  Yes I would certainly like the contact details for the guys near Llangorse.  I know the two Steves at Ross, if it is Greenfields machinery - not sure they are up to the job of stripping down and rebuilding however.

  3. 2 minutes ago, gobbypunk said:

    Nice machine , is it 3phase as most seem to be sorry don’t know of anybody round my way maybe give Axminster Tools a call they might be able to point you in the right direction, I want one but don’t have 3phase

    Yes it is 3 phase, and I also do not have three phase, but I run this off a genny.  Thanks for the suggestion re Axminster, but I think they are more on the light side rather than industrial.

  4. I have a large old thicknesser that I use quite a lot in my workshop and it is becoming noisy and it looks like it needs new gears and maybe bearings.

     

    A new one is going to be around £15,000 which is out of the question and second hand is a bit unlikely as they do come up occasionally but they may well also need rebuilding.  I have spoken to DaltonsWadkin who can overhaul it for me, but I wondered if anyone had any other firm they could recommend for overhauling this type of woodworking machinery.  I don't think it is anything complicated that needs doing, but I think I would rather hand the machine over to a firm who have knowledge of woodworking machines, not just a general engineering firm.

     

    There are plenty of machines available with a width of up to 2 feet, but this machine will plane 30 inches (750mm) and I do often use this width.  Suggestions very welcome.

     

     

    THicknesser 001.jpg

    • Like 1
  5. 10 hours ago, Ven said:

    Hi,

    Need advice if trees can be removed and if heave can cause any problems.

     

    3 birch to side and one at back is seeetchestnut.

    Trees are about 8 meters from the house.

    Multiple trees B6CA7AC9-55B5-4B0E-A8E7-B423732E4AD7.thumb.jpeg.68cc8964b4242ea71f6136b87e03d97f.jpegwith TPO.

     

    Structure survey shows. Proximity of trees is risk to the building. 

    Several large trees close to property and could lead to damage to property.

     

    Please advise what is best solution.

    1)Will council approve.

    2) can I remove in one go or gradually.

    3) precautions to foundations like

    4) make another layer under ground next to the foundations about 1 to 2 metre deep. 


    Please kindly advise.

     Thanks 

    I am no arborist but I can advise you on this one.  You will need an expert qualified arborist to do a proper survey and probably a surveyor or even engineer to assess the foundations and likely impact.  You could even ask the insurance company who they think can assess the likely impact - after all they have a strong interest in avoiding damage to the property.

     

    You will not get a conclusive answer on this or any other internet forum. 

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  6. I agree it isn't typical Cedar shape, but this could be explained by the fact it was clearly grown in a wood.  And if you zoom in on the foliage it does look more Cedar like than Spruce.  I will ask for better photos showing foliage.  As the trees are now felled it should be simple to get some good close-up pics of the leaves and cones.

  7. Can anyone help identify these two Cedars?  The one near the building I did think may be Atlantic Cedar, but the other one has a form I am really not familiar with.  I am guessing it normally grows a bit more bush like and has been drawn up by the forest hence the odd shape.

     

    I know the further tree in the first photo is a Yew it is just the other two I am trying to get a more positive ID on.  Any help gratefully received.

     

     

    Cedar.jpg

    Cedar 2.jpg

  8. 2 hours ago, Bunzena said:

    Hi - looking for some advice and opinions on the best wood to build some windows.  The softwood ones in our current home are less than 10 years old and many are simply rotting away.  Despite being reasonably well cared for.   The Pine [Deal?] they are made from flexes and moves in the heat and cold - and it's not long before water enters the end-grain and the rot starts.  The movement also seems to 'blow' the double glazing units with alarming regularity too.  We didn't fit them - and there's no warranty or come back.

     

    I've replaced a couple with joinery-made windows made from Accoya.  Brilliantly stable and supposedly durable - the problem is they cost a fortune. 

     

    So I've resolved to make some more replacements myself.

     

    Windows have to be wood - not interested in uPVC >:( or aluminium.

     

    They will be painted - but want to use a hardwood - or [like Accoya] a durable/chemically altered softwood.  It needs to be readily available and not be so exotic as to cost an arm and a leg.  Have researched and researched - and just got more confused. 

     

    Any thoughts?

     

    Thanks.

     

    Accoya is indeed one of the best options.  You should be able to purchase it for around the same price as Oak.  So not cheap, but most of the cost of bespoke wooden windows is the labour so if you have the ability to do the joinery yourself this should work out pretty economical.

     

    Otherwise if you really want to save cash good clean Larch or Douglas Fir - but you may have to buy it unseasoned and dry it yourself, as very few people dry these timbers in the UK.  Your other problem with UK grown timber is finding stock that is really clean - you don't want to be battling knots at every step.   Also not as stable as Accoya.

    • Like 1
  9. 12 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

    I'll not be that way again till I go back with the Trailer as its a 30 minute drive from my house. Its more like the top picture but smoother and less indentations, if that makes sense? If its no use for Milling I'll just leave it then. No point in spending a grand on a new Mill and Bar if its Sleeper quality. 

    It would be a huge effort and could possibly yield some interesting stock.  But mainly I would expect short grain, rot, worm damage, bark inclusions, bad shake. etc.  You would probably be milling for firewood.  Trees like that should be left for their habitat and aesthetic value - no good as timber.

    • Like 4
    • Thanks 1
    • Sad 1
  10. 19 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

    Cheers,

     

    He also has Sweet Chestnut on-site, one is an absolute monster. Will end up as Sleepers he said. :( Must be 5-7' diameter at least, for a good 10 foot. Lots of bulbous protrusions. A mix of the two pictures below really. Worth buying? I could Mill up on site and its only a few meters from roadside. Would need to buy a new Mill though. :D 

    a_large_sweet_chestnut_tree_trunk_in_kew_gardens_by_aegiandyad_d4zzhvz-pre.jpg

    large-burl-growing-on-a-sweet-chestnut-tree-castanea-sativa-suffolk-D95FA4.jpg

    Maybe post a photo of the actual tree.  If it is anything like the two you pictured it will not be much good for milling.

    • Like 1
  11. 54 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

    What are people paying for Oak Roadside? I was out seeing a Forestry guy today and he's wanting £150 a ton roadside for logs about 750mm in diameter, as thats what my Mill will take. He'll load my trailer too. I can only take a couple of tons at 3m long. If I wanted 5-6 tons in longer lengths he could deliver.

     

    How does this sound?

    I agree with most of what Big J has advised you.  I would just add that you should do the deal once the logs are down and you can look at each end.  And look out for hollow knots, which often lead to rot below the knot, which can travel some way down the log.

    • Like 1
    • Thanks 1
  12. Just now, headgroundsman said:

    No it seems it is me that was given duff info sorry

     

    I believe 112 is indeed an alternative emergency contact number in the UK.  Back in the 90s I remember it being a huge problem for the emergency switchboards that they got thousands of accidental calls every day - in the days before screens automatically locked themselves - many were to 112 and the rest 999.

     

    And the worst thing is that the operator could not just hang up, in case it was someone incapacitated in some way.  They had to listen for a good while in case someone managed to communicate that there is a real emergency.

  13. 42 minutes ago, headgroundsman said:

    A number for you all to get to know is 112. If you have no signal it will search all other networks till it finds a signal and contacts the emergency services

    In much the same way as 999 will.  Or have I missed something?

  14. 8 hours ago, Johnsond said:

    Quick query ref some ads on Ebay, couple of ads for greenheart oak reclaimed beams. Are these guys selling mistaken ?? as I understood it greenheart is greenheart and oak is oak ie totally different species. 

    Cheers 

    What it probably tells you is the seller has no idea what he is selling.

  15. 9 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

    Thanks. :)  Good to know. Id not really have bothered with Ash before but sounds its like its worth milling and drying. 

     

    What thickness would you suggest?

    Well personally I mill Ash to the following thicknesses in mm 19 25 32 38 50 63 75 and 100. But I have spent many years finding customers and outlets.  I suggest if you do not know who the customers will be maybe 32 and 50 or 55 mm are very useful thicknesses.

    • Thanks 1

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