Squaredy

8 minutes ago, tree-fancier123 said:

Hacking is as bad as breaking in to a building and lifting documents from a file. Give him full open circuit

If I get broken into I would be very relieved if they only steal bits of paper.  But then I have very little to hide...

14 minutes ago, eggsarascal said:

Beacon of free speech, or a proper wrong 'un?

 

I've heard over the years what he's alleged to have done, but never taken much notice of it. I believe the charges of sexual assault were dropped?

 

He looked rough today, Seven years in an embassy, surely he'd have been better off going to face the music?

It is hardly surprising the establishment are working tirelessly to silence him.  He has released millions of embarrassing bits of information.  Trump loved Wikileaks when it was helping him find dirt on Hilary Clinton.  Now he has changed his tune.

Thankfully for us Wikileaks will continue even without Julian Aussange.  A little bit of truth can be very helpful every now and then.

Remember how hard our MPs tried to hide the truth of MPs expenses? 

41 minutes ago, farmer rod said:

it appears dry and sittable when most other things are still damp.

Is this because it is untreated and highly absorbent?  In other words the water has soaked in rather than slowly evaporated as it would have had to on a sealed surface?

15 minutes ago, warren said:

Tbh. No idea. Seems a waste to waste it. Yes I could get 10years of firewood from it. Where/how I sell it after is another question. So many questions. Bloody jobs giving me a headache already.

You can of course stack the milled timber and air dry it for years and then find lots of different customers, and this should get you the best price.  Or you might find a bulk buyer (like me!) who will take the whole lot unseasoned at a wholesale price - I would pay around £170 per cubic metre for milled Sweet Chestnut of decent quality (milled to my spec).  

1 hour ago, warren said:

Gents .. I've got 6*90' sweet chestnuts to come down . All straight. Be a shame to log it or worse biomass it. Is it worth getting a mill in? 

 Well worth milling unless it has ring shake as Mr Hewn said.  Post some pics when felled and we can check for ring shake.  If the trees are not too old you may be lucky.  What would you mill for, do you have a use in mind?

One year on from milling the Poplar I started this thread about, I planed and partly finished a board to show off the grain.  I think it is rather nice.  I have sold some and will certainly buy more logs for milling one day.  

38 minutes ago, peds said:

Yeah I know, knot exactly a tree, but you guys are just so bloody clever I know you can help with this.

 

I've just inherited the use of a polytunnel which has lain dormant for a couple of years, and a nearby clump of Japanese Knotweed has started to poke through the ground in places. It's not too bad, but the problem will only get worse, obviously. I'll try and get a couple of photos tomorrow.

I've got plans to move the tunnel in the future, maybe next season, maybe the year after... but for this year, what can I do to minimise the problem? I'm wary of cutting the stems out, but I'd much rather keep te ground that I have available instead of putting in raised beds or benches after putting down sheets or slabs or something, as I hope to move the tunnel in the future. How much of an extra problem am I creating by just cutting the stems now and pretending they don't exist for the rest of the season?

 

Thanks for any advice dudes.

This is the right time of the year to get a load of systemic weedkiller on them - Glyphos like Roundup.  Treat them each spring (and possibly later in the year if more shoots come up) and you will soon get them under control.

38 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Cut lots of 1"square stickers for stacking. One at each end and one every 18-24"
Find a really level area, put a few clean pallets down first, then get a spirit level to make perfectly flat.
Best kept out of the sun and rain with a few ply boards.(or in a barn).
Don't sharpen a chainsaw or anything else iron/steel anywhere near your slabs unless you like blue flecking.
Paint the end grain with pva.

All sound advice from Rough Hewn, just one more thing to add.  Don’t get any nice warm dry weather for a few months as this will cause surface checking.

4 hours ago, Bri said:

Did anybody see the one show last night, about even efficient stoves is like the equivalent to the same carbon levels to 18 diesel cars, I’d like to see the proof or facts to back this quote. 

 

I think it is well understood and accepted that burning wood is carbon neutral (if you ignore carbon relating to processing and transport).  The alleged issue is particulates.  If this was not made clear it was a very poor article.

1 minute ago, eggsarascal said:

Is this correct?, I only give written quotes on bigger jobs. Verbal agreement and a handshake most of the time.

A contract is a contract, and does not have to be written.  But how do you prove what was agreed if it is not in writing?

If the plumber takes the OP to court for non-payment, the court will expect him to prove his claim - if it is just one person's word against another who knows how the court would rule.

23 minutes ago, Shaff said:

Plumbers seem to have a bit of an attitude regards pricing. £500 a shift for turning up with a couple of spanners is taking the piss. 

 

In recent years plumbers have become very gready I am afraid.  It is just so easy for them to condem a boiler and make a grand profit from less than two days work that this seems to be what they expect these days.

Did the plumber make all the costs clear when quoting?  If the £1000 was not the whole cost was this clear?  If not I wouldn’t pay any more and find someone else to finish the job.

The lesson of course is get the quote in writing and read it carefully and always remember the difference between a quote and an estimate.

15 hours ago, trigger_andy said:

How did you calculate it if you dont mind me asking?

If you use logic and maths you can estimate the squared off 20 inch log at around 16 inch by 16 inch (or nearly) which if there were no faults or taper or bend in the log would give 14 boards each 12ft long.  Reality kicks in and you may get about 10 to 12 boards per log which equals 120 to 144ft or 37 to 44 metres.  Hence to get 500 metres you need between 10 and 13 logs.  I did it in my head earlier and was a bit optimistic sorry.  In reality a 20 inch log is quite small and you won't get many 8 inch wide boards from it, even if you are lucky enough to have no faults.  

What actually happens is you put the log on the mill and find it is not straight, so you lose a fair proportion due to this.  Then you find some central shake, which ruins a couple of boards.  Maybe some have large knots which will be a problem for some uses.

I think the conversion tables you refer to are more applicable to straight softwood with no serious flaws.  You might be better off milling your Oak to useful sizes and then looking for buyers who simply have to buy whole boards - you will still get some faults and waste however.  And finding buyers can be very very time consuming, and half of them will want a different size/quality from what you have.

1 hour ago, trigger_andy said:

So, Ive been asked to Mill 500 meters of 1"x8" Oak. If Im correct in my calculations thats 1093 Board Feet?

 

So if going by the Doyle Log Scale I should yield 192 Board Feet from a 12'x20" log. Then Id need 6 logs to get the required 1093 Board Feet. 

 

But in reality is this the case? Assuming the logs are clean? 

 

Anyone know what the current price for sawn oak is? 

 

Cheers.  

I have never come across the tables you refer to but my own calculation suggests 7 logs of the size you quote  But depending on the quality you need this could be way out.  I would suggest 7 logs is the minimum and the maximum could be way more.  There will be knots, shake in the centre maybe rotten knots etc.  

Milling to order with Oak can be a stressful and wasteful business.

1 hour ago, buffalo606 said:

Milled a bit of oak that's been on the deck for a year.  Lot of wood worm - especially liking the sap wood. How do I stop them from causing more damage and then keep them away?  Wood is just going to be cut in to slats for a log shed. 

Also there are different woodworm species.  The ones that like Oak logs usually die when milled and dried.  Generally Oak is not their favoured wood.  If you are worried you can get woodworm killers but I think they will die off anyway as the wood dries.

Margaret Thatcher also colluded with Ronald Reagan to cover up the truth behind the Lockerbie bombing.  30 years on the true culprits (who were well known almost from the start) have never been brought to justice and an innocent man went to prison and the wrong country was blamed.  (It is all on Wikipedia if you care to look).

I do think she was right to stand up to the unions however, and right to buy was of benefit to millions - though not allowing the councils to build new council houses with the money raised was scandalous and is one of the reasons we now have housing shortages.

I have not voted in the poll as there was good and bad about her, like most of the other politicians out there.

5 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Kindling?  

No you need black walnut for kindling.  

9 minutes ago, trigger_andy said:

Whats it used for? 

Mainly carving but can be used for many indoor projects where strength and hardness are not important.

1 hour ago, Tom Richards said:

First Duggie fir second grand fir ?????

The owner of the trees has not provided better pics as requested so it may forever remain a mystery.  I was hoping to buy them but I was not convinced they were cedars at all hence the question.  If I hear any more I will update this thread.

9 hours ago, Alex21 said:

Good evening 

Just wondering what lime timber is like for milling? 

If it's any good what size is best and what's a rough price for road side lengths? 

Thank you in advance

 

I operate one of the few sawmills that actively buys Lime for milling.  We are only small but need at least a couple of lorry loads per year.

I pay around £70 per cubic metre.  Needs to be fairly local to me of course (south east wales) with good access.

1 hour ago, difflock said:

Squaredy,

Are you saying you ran a 5HP single phase motor?

I can understand the need to be v close, or use a shocking heavy power lead if that was the case.

Not bought a saw yet, but looking at a few the 3ph ones seem to be 5.5 or 7.5kW

So to round up the 5.5KW=7.5HP.

Also considering the electric saw option for the Logosol mill, which would be 3PH, and if the same ph converter could drive either  .  .  .

marcus

Yes it was a three phase machine that I wanted to run on the mains so I converted it by swapping the original motor for a single phase one.  It worked great and I only retired it in Jan due to the rest of the machine being knackered.  

The frustrating thing is that a motor like this uses no more power than an electric kettle once running.  It is the startup that is the killer.

10 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

Read the comments at the bottom, they’re always funny.

Yeah, much more enlightening than the article.  I don't cut trees down (only up) and it amazes me how some people can't see beyond their eyelids.

I have for years run a 5 hp saw from single phase supply.  It was on its own MCB from the dist board but luckily the saw was very near.  How much HP do you need, and what type of saw?  

36 minutes ago, topchippyles said:

Check your private messages as have sent you andrews phone number and he can do your thicknesser as spoke to him on monday afternoon,Hope it helps.

Thank you Les, I have spoken to Steve and he is going to pop in and assess it when he is down my way next.

19 hours ago, se7enthdevil said:

 

just found this.

 

 

https://www.advancedmachinery.co.uk/machinery/parts.asp?section=planer-thicknessers-307

Thank you Steve that is very interesting.

2 hours ago, topchippyles said:

Spoke to andy and he can do the machine for you and i have the number 

Thank you that would be great if I can have the number.