Liam88

I wouldn't use teufelbergers instructions. They lack detail, differ from other instructions, and don't make sense because they're badly translated. Anybody else feel the same? Cheers

Have you got any contact details for them bro? Cheers

DMM pdf shows a splice to both ends of the pulley in a prussik config: http://dmmindustrial.com/downloads/DMM_Pinto_Flyer.pdf Interesting.... If I were you CraigD I'd contact DMM and get my money back or get them to replace it. It must have a year warranty or something of the like.

Great observation. It has to be another metallic object to cause that wear - rope, twigs, leaves etc wouldn't touch a hot forged pulley! So if it isn't the retrieval shackle then it could be from the pulley itself (on self destruct mode!) This issue is probably why the pulley saver has a spacer.

Absolutely gutted for you bro. Thank you for the pics - you can really see the wear on the side of the wheel from the shackle. Has anyone an idea of how to limited this damage? A cheap pulley (micro pulley?) infront of the retrieval shackle? Or even just a cheap pulley as the retrieval device? Plastic retrieval shackle? Can get them from any sailing shop of chandlers. Cheers

Absolutely fascinating, thanks for that.

Also just had a quick look at your photos browncow. If you look at the cover strands they look quite bunched up near the eye. This needs to be milked out before you do the final whipping - for two reasons: 1. When you apply load to the splice that slack has got to go somewhere. It may go towards your eye and seize the eye tight like a slip knot. Or it may go down the rope creating some nasty stresses. Remember, these eyes have to be 22kn or stronger. 2. The bunching up will also make it harder to whip closer to the eye. This could contributing to the breaking of the whipping needles. Keep it up though mate. This is good stuff!

Yea that's right. A splice may pull out on low loads if the load is dynamic (on/off/on/off etc.) When the load (big or small) is consistency applied the splice doesn't move (as much) and gets 'tighter.' When you think about this dynamic load action and transfer it to climbing, then you could say that splices on your friction hitch experience this on/off low loading. So you pull down on the mainline - load off, pull in the slack and sit back - load on etc etc.. Therefore whipping + stitching is crucial. A straight bury is affected the most by this slipping. But I'd say whipping is equally as important on all splices because of the variable uses of splices in arb in terms of the types of load they experience. Browncow - you could probably get away with whipping that far down on a double braid as long as you have stitched the cross over before you milked the splice in place as well. This stiching stops the burried core and cover slipping (which often happens when you milk the splice in place). See Brian Tosses method.

Just wandering how it is possible to break the whipping needles? They're pretty tough old things - still on my first set I bought from my local chandlers and haven't broken any. The ones I use for double braid are pretty small to allow whipping closer to the eye which is very important for preventing slippage at low loads (think about the structure of the splice and where the buries start/finish). They also have a flat point so that when you poke it through with your palm you can grab the end with some plyers (spelling?) and pull it through. Makes life a lot easier. Thinner whipping twine also makes it easier, just double it up to give it some strength. Here are some picks of the needle I used for a double braid splice on a roblon friction hitch cord I'm trying out. The cover on this rope is pretty solid too but the needle held out fine.

What a great idea! Dunno if there is enough carved heads to deal with the amount disused rope though. Take polyester as an example. Its a common rope fibre but it is also the same material plastic bottles are made from. In theory what ever recycled bottles are made from then surely polyester ropes can be used as well. How about insulation? Cheers

What about when it is beyond usable? (after all the other uses have been used!) Cheers

Are there any ideas that are more ethical than landfill? How about the disposal of other used Arb equipment as well - karabiners, harnesses etc? Had a quick search on the subject and couldn't find anything - apologies if it has already been covered! Cheers

I agree completely. Wire and rope doesn't mix well. Has anyone has the nerve to dissect the eye in the pulley saver? I heard that has a rubber core too. Cheers

My opinion is that the groundsman should also be a climber. Climbing work should be shared so that fatigue is reduced, and that if the worst happened, the groundsman could competently rescue the climber. Therefore the groundsman and the climber charge the same rates. Anyone else share this opinion? Cheers

There's some great photos of this system here: TreeBuzz Board: F8 revolver

How about using the figure 8 with revolver on the running bowline? It even allows you to ascend if your desperate! [ame=http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=XyXwrXgN0qw]YouTube - the F8 revolver[/ame] Cheers

Yale defiantly do it with a machine. On page 5 of their catalogue it describes the machine as the widow maker. I can and I'm sure many other splicers out there can think of another name for it ....

Some new splicing videos for all you splicing geeks by New England Ropes.. Enjoy! YouTube - NewEnglandRopes's Channel

I think! This may change when load is applied.

I saw that system recently too and have taken a liking to it. I like it because the friction hitch is in front of you rather than hiding behind the rope because your clipping in behind the hitch. Unlike with the hitch climber where it makes you clip into the front and the hitch is behind the rope. This can be really annoying. When the hitch climber came out I remember people saying that they didn't like it for that reason. Also the pinto allows knots to be used as a termination as well as splices because it keeps the two lines apart enough for a knot to not inter fear with the friction hitch. Unlike the hitch climber, where a knot can be a pain in the arse with your hitch. I will definitely replace my hitch climber with a pinto for these reasons when it wares out (hope its soon!). Cheers

Sorry CraigD I've asked the same question twice but in another thread! Thanks for your response mate. I had that problem with the retrieval shack too. Thats why I've stopped putting the shackle at the end of the rope where its free to do as it pleases. See the pic bellow - short and tall it there's some think hollow tubing over a 4mm diameter hollow braid, about 12" long. This then holds the shackle down out the way - I think this is what MOG means. But I spose a larger retrieval shackle would to it to. Also what about a smaller pulley? Worse case scenario take it easy when you climb, no sharp descents (if thats possible!). Here's my old rope guide with the tubing over the retrieval bit.

Yea, that's exactly what I mean - thanks for that. Just curious what diameter plastic coated wire this is? Is it forming the new core in the large eye? Cheers

How did you form the large eye? Is there plastic coated wire in there, if so what diameter is it? I'm hooked on the idea of making one too!

Sweet as. Are you using the plastic coated wire rope as the new core but in the eye only? Presumable in a 16 strand arborist rope (13 mm) you need about 8 mm diameter plastic coated wire rope for the insert? Cheers

Yea thats right, the pulley and the prussik is passed completely through the large eye to choke it off. It retrieves just the same too. I don't think its dangerous at all. If it was, why does Teufelberger picture their rope guides doing the same thing? http://www.teufelberger.com/uploads/tx_txconceptadownloads/10-11-24_Produktblatt_pulleySaver_EN.pdf