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simonm

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Posts posted by simonm

  1. I bought a uniforest last winter and run it off my db990 it rips through timber nice and steady, i don't think id want it on anything smaller, if your buying a tractor to run it make sure its all working and fit for purpose i had to faff about with mine to get the pto running right, most will say the recommended power output of the machine. Much more productive than a chainsaw if you set yourself up right, riko have good deals on every now and then.

     

     

    I've been on the lookout for a saw bench for a while now and I'm stuck between 2 options really,

     

    1- get a petrol powered one rytec, balfour, riko e.t.c,

     

    2- get a pto powered one oxdale, riko or balfour and a tractor to suit,

     

    the trouble I'm having is understanding power, i.e some petrol ones have 6hp engines whereas some have 13 or 15hp.

     

    i don't necasarily need a tractor at the yard as i have just made a towable petrol splitter that i take down there with my truck. however I'm sure a small tractor would become invaluable in time.

     

    would a compact kubota for example say 18hp be enough to lift and power a pto saw bench? based on the petrol saws only needing 6-15hp, or would i need to look for a larger machine such as a david brown? i don't do tons and tons of firewood, but enough to get fed up using a chainsaw all the time!

     

    my thinking is i could always take a compact down the woodland i cut firewood from to help drag wood closer to the tracks? i haven't currently got a trailer licence but I'm seriously considering this as well, maybe giving me the option to take a david brown ( for example) down there instead

     

    your thoughts would be appreciated

     

    thanks

    George

  2. If you want to use them repetitively go hydraulic for sure. As mentioned earlier, I used electric winches for repetitive work (3-4 mins of pulling then 10 mins unhitching, resetting and then going again) and we killed two electric winches in no time. Will cost a bit more initially but it sounds like the right tool for the job. As bob mentions you have got a decent engine, hydraulic system and controls right there so shouldn't be a hard addition.

     

    i have a limited knowledge with hydraulic systems, how would i know if the hydraulic pump on the chipper would be sufficient enough to power the winch? i assume the bigger the winch the bigger the hydraulic pump to power it :confused1: is it a case of matching the winch to the output of the pump?

  3. Go hydraulic, a decent secondhand one for £300-400 . Pipes and a diverter off the track circuit , no brain surgeon is needed to fit one. Will winch tirelessly all day.

     

    Bob

     

    Would hydraulic be more usable than electric? I don't want something that will only be used to self recover i want something i can work, not saying it will be used all day every day pulling massive stuff about, but it would be good to have the capability to move stuff without the fear of breaking a £500 winch!

  4. Dry mix it in the mixer, into barrow, 1 holds the post level and tamps it down whilst the other shovels it in, works out around £4 per hole. Loads cheaper than post mix as long as it is packed in the hole its solid, by the time you go back the next day it has pretty much gone off.

  5. For me its mainly for use in tight areas, where the machine cant be tracked back and used to pull something. I have a row of about 80 conifers to fell and chip up, they all have to be brought to the front down a long straight passage, the idea was to fell them, winch them to the chipper in 1 and process them. If they are designed to be used an couple of times on site then they seem an expensive addition.

  6. Hi Guys

     

    I've got a few jobs now where a couple of customers want some decking built, I understand whats generally got to be done and I have done one or two small areas before..... but my most recent quote is for 54m2 of decking at about 300mm high.

    Now I'm finding all sorts of information on posts and supports it looks like a post every 1m down the length and at every 500mm across the width.. this calculates to a total of 133 post for 54m2 which means not only 133 post holes to be dug but probably also knocking on for £2000 in postcrete!?

    SURELY THIS CANNOT BE RIGHT!?

     

    Any advice? what do you guys do? :confused1:

    or is there a book you can recommend that will help me out here?

     

    Many thanks in advance, Phil.:thumbup:

     

    I work off roughly 1 4x4 post 600mm apart, but it depends on the size of joist you use and how you lay them out, i would rather be ott and know that it is solid than scrimp on materials and have it bite you in the arse later on!

    On something that size id set the outer edge in postmix and then once the frame work is locked in do the joists and inner supports in dry mix, this works out loads cheaper, id either buy or hire a mixer in though as mixing by hand is a ball ache!

  7. looks great, are you going to triangulate the uprights as it is quite high ?

     

    It probably wouldn't hurt to do so, all the posts are in 2' and concreted in, corners and centre posts run through to the handrail, 3of us bouncing allover it and it didn't move.

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