morten

No. But NaOH will neither react with steel/iron, chrome or nickel/nikasil. HCl will react with at least the steel in the cast cylinder. That was my point.

For a demonstration of the reaction between Sodium Hydroxide and Aluminium, see this video: https://youtu.be/FllkuxXM6cE And a video comparing reaction between Aluminium and both Acid (HCl) and Base (NaOH)

I am curious to know if anyone has experience using Sodium Hydroxide (NaOH) to remove aluminium transfer from cylinders? Sodium Hydroxide is generally used as drain cleaner and for stripping off paint and is also called Caustic Soda, Lye, and is freely available at very low cost. Advantages over Muriatic Acid (HCl): - No dangerous Chrloride fumes. - No unintended etching into steel/nikasil (cylinder), so not as critical to be careful applying it to Alu transfers. NaOH simply does not react chemically with steel or nickel/chrome. I see no disadvantages. I have had good experiences using it. Anybody else tried it? I use cotton swabs and a toothbrush for applying the chemicals to the aluminium transfers. WARNING! Be careful when dissolving Sodium Hydroxide pellets in water. The process is highly exothermic (generated heat). So pour pellets into water, not the other way around. And use appropriate containers

Thanks, got it

I have been trying to identify the Briggs & Stratton engine model number to locate the manual online at https://www.briggsandstratton.com/eu/en_gb/support/manuals.html The label (see attached photo) specifies: Engine Model 1006 02 0153 B8 Regardless of how I chop up this model number, I cannot find 6 digits that results in a valid model number. It doesn't fit the "Engine Model Key" as described in this document: https://www.briggsandstratton.com/content/dam/briggsandstratton/na/en_us/Files/Engine_Model_Key_Rev_2-11.pdf Any help would be appreciated PS: The QR code resolves to this text: S1102238887718P1006020153B8

A real semi-skip or full-skip chain cannot be made from a full-complement chain, as the L/R cutters are moved along the chain links for balance and smoothness. Look here for explanation and illustration: Chain Sequence Explained If necessary, you COULD simulate a skip chain by removing cutters, but it will cut rougher and create more vibrations than a real semi/full-skip chain. If you imagine that line 1. below is a full complement chain, you can make an approximation of a semi skip chain (2.), by removing every third cutter. You can also make an approximation of a full skip chain (3.) by removing two consecutive cutters, and leaving the next two: L,R,L,R,L,R ... L,R,_,R,L,_ ... L,R,_,_,L,R ... If you compare the space occupied by the missing cutters, it is FAR longer than on a real semi/full-skip chain, where the missing cutters are spread out along the chain links. Therefore the manually produced skip chains will cause a lot more vibration and be more prone to kickbacks.

A few pictures of my setup (using an Aluminium ladder). Mounted via brackets on the end of the log. Very easy and quick setup, and easy to line up with log centre. Note that you can slide in the bracket after placing the ladder on the log. Also: no modification/holes need to be made to the ladder.

Hook angle (side plate angle) should actually be a little lower (sharper) on a milling chain than on a cross-cut chain. One way to achieve this, is to use a file holder for a smaller diameter file. E.g. when using a 5.5 mm file to sharpen a 3/8" ripping chain, you can use a 4 mm file holder. Alternatively, you can put a shim under the file at each end to lift it up a little. To achieve this, you probably need to use a STIHL file holder, which allows a bigger file to be fitted, which the Oregon file holder (with the spring clips does not) By lifting up a 5.5 mm file by 0.5 mm, you change the hook angle (top-plate cutting angle) from the standard 60° to 45°. This makes the chain cut faster, and with less effort, but also makes the cutters more vulnerable. One of the main reasons for using a more acute angle is that as you change the top plate angle from 30° to 10° (typical for milling), you actually increase the angle with respect to the wood. An analogy is when using a plane, you get a more acute angle by rotating the plane by about 30°, making it easier to plane. Above information was obtained from the chainsaw milling "bible" Chainsaw Lumber Making by Will Maloff, originally published in 1982, but recently reprinted: https://www.amazon.co.uk/Chainsaw-Lumbermaking-Will-Malloff/dp/1626548447/ Excerpt: The file guide, as it comes from the manufacturer, is set to file a hook angle of approximately 60°. To reduce the angle, it is necessary to shim the file in the guide at both ends, directly under both clamps. I usually use two or three strips of a matchbook cover to start, adding strips until the file cuts a 45° hook. It's a good idea to start with a conservative number of strips, to avoid removing too much metal. (typo's from the first edition book corrected).

I would recommend using Google 2-step Verification for your account: https://www.google.com/landing/2step/ It means that every time you log in to your account from a new computer, you have to prove that it's you doing the login, by providing an additional factor such as: - SMS verification code - Google app confirmation prompt on a smartphone - Authenticator app (from google) on a smartphone, entering a 6-digit code - USB security key - A key code card The idea behind two-factor authentication, as it is called in the security world, is that to gain access to a service (e.g. e-mail), you have to provide several pieces of information: - Something you know: the password - Something you have: e.g. a smartphone Two-factor authentication cannot be hacked, unless someone gains access to your password AS WELL AS access to your smartphone (or classic phone using SMS). Hope this helps

Anyone have ANY experience or feedback on the Norwood LumberPro HD36 bandsaw mill? It is sold in Europe by Logosol, and at £7,260 + VAT, it seems like a reasonable deal. [ame] [/ame] LumberPro HD36 with 23 hp petrol motor | LOGOSOL

You guys calling me a limp wristed, sissy bitch now? I'll try increasing the ignition gap. It's just irritating, that it takes 5 minutes at WOT (milling) to figure out if it fixes the issue

I am still experiencing having the pull cord handle ripped out of my hands with the same old 660. It happens consistently when milling, restarting the saw while hot (within 5 minutes of having milled). It kicks back like a motherf..... – really hurts. Even when pressing in the decompression valve (which pops back out when it kicks back). The best way to start it is to gently pull the cord, without pressing the decomp valve, until you feel compression, and then give the pull cord a short sharp pull with BOTH hands, while the saw is on the ground held down with my knee (saw mounted on the Alaskan mill). But even with this technique, it still pulls the handle out of my hand every other time. I really don't like this situation. Time for a new saw, maybe (STIHL 880, Husky 3120)? Any new advice fixing this problem once and for all, beyond the advice already mentioned by Garden Kit, adjusting the ignition gap?

I just finished milling an old Walnut for a customer. I got paid, and gets to keep 1/3 of the resulting slabs. No decay, and no shake. Milled using 30" and 42" bar on a "Chilaskan" mill with the Quick Release height adjustment kit. It is so much quicker to adjust the slab thickness that way. Also has a winch kit attached, which really saves a lot of effort, and a more pleasant (upright) working position. The knots that couldn't be milled was given to a local tree-turner, see some of his work here: Træskåle fra Eghjortens værksted på Hundested havn

Could you elaborate a little on what constitutes the huge improvements over the 660?

Looking through posts in this forum, it doesn't seem like Greenmech is following the threads. Most posts asking for help are left unanswered. That is not a great way to shoe that you care about your (potential) customers. Either be active in the forum, or pull out gracefully.