treequip

You can get cut proof jackets or cut proof sleeves.

Personally id say both are pretty much redundant though i know of some company worksites that insit on type c trousers and cut proof sleeves all year round.

That would be cut resistant. No manufacturer will say cut proof

Eee, that's a fine looking device. If a potential buyer drops out I'll definitely do the conversion and would be very pleased to send some beer tokens. And probably some proper cider, I seem to have become the national repository.

 

The bandsaw is a 70's Wadkin with 800mm wheels, either 5hp or 7.5hp three phase so not too juicy.

 

Signore Comer's gearboxes come up on Kramp's catalogue too. The internet is very impressive sometimes- https://www.kramp.com/shop-ch/en/365054/632280/0/Comer+gearboxes+L-25A+1%3A1

You can have that for the princely sum of 20 quid plus shipping. PM your deils

i'm beyond help

I am in a similar g house move situation and my copy made 42 quid, it was pristine cos I carnt read good neither.

Thats really interesting Gary, useful information.

 

Am I right in saying the Lelandii (if we have a cypruss) are not actually shallow root spreaders then? This seems to indicate that in clay they can grow quite deep.

I guess it depends on the ground (eg soil/clay)

What Garry hasn't mentioned is that Cutler and Richardson, the authors of that document got so concerned about the use of the data that they distanced themselves from it and describing it's the use as inappropriate and statically limited.

Having nothing else but a flawed data set they used it anyway.

It is though the source of much and repeated scare mongering when the Sunday papers are short of copy, which is probably why your FIL was concerned.

I believe Kithcens are included... see below taken from

https://www.gov.uk/government/uploads/system/uploads/attachment_data/file/9408/hedgeheight.pdf

 

Loss of light to windows

5.1 Introduction

High hedges can obstruct daylight to windows. Even if a window faces north, significant loss of

diffuse sky light can occur. The extent of the loss of light will depend on the distance from the hedge

to the window as well as the height of the hedge.

The guidelines given here are intended for use for the main rooms of a house. These include living

rooms, dining rooms, kitchens and bedrooms. Glazed doors can be counted as windows if they form

a major source of light to the room.

Loss of light to toilets, bathrooms, storerooms and circulation areas (hall, stairs and landing) is

deemed less important and such windows need not be analysed. These guidelines apply to dwellings,

and not to outbuildings such as sheds, greenhouses, summer houses, garages or workshops. Windows

to these structures need not be taken into account.

Where a dwelling has a conservatory, the opening between it and the house, not the front or side faces

of the conservatory, is taken as the window position.

That's the HH legislation, we were on rights by prescription.

It's been a while since I read that act, but I'm pretty sure that the plaintiff must have enjoyed the light for a considerable number of years to start with.

From memory its 8 years but I think the right goes with the property rather than the person

The pins are usually in "blind" holes so you cant knock them out. There is a special clamp for the job that looks a bit like a pulley drawer but most resort to the pry bar against the winch body method.

Just be careful not to damage the casing if you go with that option.

there is also the right to light issue, if the kitchen is too dark because of the tree, it is possible to legally have it reduced.

The right to light is covered under the prescriptions act and rather than a right to light it would be better seen as a right to compensation. It is usually applied to the built environment, I know of no case law that applied it to trees or hedges and there were plenty of the latter before the HH law "simplified" things.

Interesting that you mention the kitchen because the right is taken to apply to "habitable" rooms and that then excludes rooms of transient use so the kitchen and bathroom don't count.

The act also fails to say what reduced level of light would be acceptable and while the owners of property with a high value may be able to engage in a litigatious bun fight in the name of compensation, Mrs Miggins probably can't afford it.

In short its a non starter where trees are concerned.

I think you are loosing a lot of energy into that pendulum action

I guess what im asking is -'How good/accurate/confident can these reports be?

A "pukka" report will consist of (amongst other things) a site visit and investigation with soil "core" sampling, usually down to 700mm.

in layman's terms, problems happen when vegetation extracts moisture from soils which causes volumetric changes, essentially the soil shrinks and leaves the structure unsupported. Sail type is a major consideration, some soils are more susceptible than others and some not at all.

The property is the biggest single purchase most of us ever make so you are right to be cautious

Given that the tree is indeed in third party ownership, you have no control over it except perhaps by negotiation.

Regards the potential subsidence, its far from a given and depends on many factors that I would wager the FIL knows little about. It is a specialist area.

Touch base with a surveyor and see what he thinks about subsidence risks before you get into commissioning a survey.

Your lender may or may nor insist on a specialist report, it often depends on any recommendations in the surveyors report.

Probably have trouble with garden gates though.

No problem at all, there will however be evidence of your passing

If you want new try Gearmotors, gearboxes, motors, inverters, electric motors | Bonfiglioli

If you want used try any agricultural auction

Or........

Cheap and ready to go is this

Its a 2:1 gearbox with an 1, 3/8 spline input (standard tractor) and a parallel shaft (1" ish) output, the housing is ally so it wont take a huge amount of torque but it should do a band saw, what rating is the motor you want to replace?

I may be persuaded to part with this thing of beauty for a good cause, and a consideration of beer tokens.

Do stop digging Matelot.

Yeah, stop digging, you might find a bomb

Nice tidy work, please tell me they turned the power off for you

I think you will find that the UK is the most H&S obsessed country of all.......................

Probably not, basing an opinion on something to read on "tinternet" is folly and gives the wrong impression.

People with an axe to grind are vocal, people who are satisfied tend to be quiet, the net is an easy place to vent your spleen, that's the net gives such a skewed perspective.

The real driver behind the "health and safety culture" is the "risk adverse" insurance underwriters. If its not CE marked, LOLER inspected certificated, compliant, trained, examined and checked, the insurers are likely to drop your claim

The insurance people answer to shareholders and if you have a pension pot its ultimately OUR money that's driving the system so that means its probably your fault as well:laugh1:

I see a theme here,cocker=madness!

Nope, mad would imply irrational and that's doing the breed a disservice.

Having to hold it still to get a picture is soooooo "Cocker"

Clearly old explosives are not dangerous at all!!!

 

I bet the insurance claim made interesting reading.

Clearly they will go bang, just light the blue touch paper on your large industrial crusher

I bet the "acts of war" exclusion gave the underwriters a bit of wriggle room

Just chuck a couple of lines in to the effect that all staff will be reminded of the sensitive nature of the site.

 

What PPE did you have to handle those explosives?

Now that's funny, PPE would provide a degree of protection but since the round is probably AP, designed to punch through several inches of steel, I am curious as to what PPE you think would be effective?

I'm sure 70 year old shells ain't as dangerous as people like to make out..

 

all the chemicals must of deteriorated in all those years...

 

Its like that peter Kay Joke about the swans, has anyone ever seen a broken arm..

 

Still, fascinating story none the less...

I was working in Berlin when the wall came down, the development of the east made ordinance finds a daily occurrence, they had a disposal site near our regular tip off sites and they made it go booooom at least once a week so the gear was still viable.

Making those shells do anything would be difficult since they are missing the detonators but if anything could a grinder would be a good choice:laugh1:

We found a pile of "88" shells whilst grubbing out a hedge in a village just north if Berlin, the neighbour showed us his collection of "finds" including a panzerfaust. The novelty soon wore off after a couple of sites we were working on got temporary shut downs because of munitions finds. It really was the "wild east" for a while back then.

Slightly off topic, kind of. What are the rules regarding risk assessments and use freelance workers, say I'm doing a job and I have a freelance climber in, just the two of us, do I need to make sure he has lolar? Do I have to do a full risk assessment? I'm sorry if this has been done to death. I was told that if there are more than 5on site there should be a risk assessment, which I do, but for less?

The fact that they are freelance isn't a relevant factor. In law they are no different than any other hourly paid employee.

Any kit in use that falls under the regs needs to have a current inspection regardless of who it belongs to. This is an employer responsibility.

In the situation you describe, (under 5 people) there is no legal requirement to record R.A. however that doesn't mean you don't have a duty to make an assessment. Remember that people affected by but not directly involved in the work should also be considered and that can take you into "written recorded".

If it hits the fan, the powers that be will be all over it and "Who said what to whom and when" becomes important.

Painting galv is the same as anything else, except you get best results with an etch primer, particularly when its electro plate.

A quick rub over to take off any grime then paint with etch primer

He also said the tree had been cut down at some point to just above the trunk as it thinned before branching out. I've seen many cherry trees with this 'step' and always thought it was their natural shape. Didn't get a photo of the tree but it looks the same as this....

?

That looks like a graft to me