treequip

 

something like a daily or isuzu double cab with a big hiab fitted behind cab (2 ton lift at 7m) short chassis with artic hitch. weighing in at say 4.5 ton unladen.

 

This gets around the o licence, operators yard and tacho requirements.

 

Thoughts ?

 

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Anything over 3500kg MAM needs an "O" licence

Yawn. They're arb students - why be so negative about a post with some great photos?!

I don't think that's negative at all. Its constructive criticism that identifies a problem and suggests a solution, which is the very definition of learning. Appreciating that high stumps cause problems for others is an entirely valid learning outcome.

As you rightly say, they are students, they are in a learning environment, if they aren't going to develop best practice in a place of education, they are going to learn it the hard way when the forwarder driver complains to the boss about the new bloke leaving a mess and wrecking the sidewalls on expensive tyres.

Edit............

I need to type faster

If you're teaching them to fell that high they'll be chucked straight out of the woods on day 1.

Or the man on the forwarder will give them a slap round the back of the head :laugh1:

Get a copy of the map and schedule from the LA

It cant be the ram Mr Scale, its only a single action. Fluid goes in the same port as it exits,

 

I did tell him that a few posts back.....................Ho hum

The number should be on the edge of the bearing, you should be able to see it without too much dismantling. Most common sizes stock items, if you have to wait more than next day you need a better supplier

Does anyone use / are electric trailer brakes legal here? They are standard in Aus.

 

With an override switch in towing vehicle to manually apply trailer brakes without touching vehicle brakes. Easy way to pull yourself up if you start snaking.

Not uncommon in north America either but not legal for use on UK roads

I think the problem in in the ram as its an old problem not solved by replacing the motor and pump.

I think the problem is in the ram, its air in the ram.

There isn't much to go wrong in the ram itself, its a rod and a seal inside a tube, there might just be a check valve in case a hose bursts but its hard to see how that could cause the symptoms you described

Ditch it and start from scratch

Rather than the flimsy clamp system drill the bar along its centre line and bolt the uprights through the guide bar. Stay away from the nose of the guide bar unless you have a duromatic type bar, it means an inch or two less width of cut but at the advantage of a more secure fixing.

You will need to weld a small plate to the end of the upright and drill and tap it. Make the plate the same width as the post so as not to reduce your maximum cut width and a shade under the width of the guide bar. Take care to get the end of the upright square to the guide bar

OK first things first ,before doing anything to this secure the body before working on it getting squashed by a tipper body is likely to result in serious sense of humour failure

Is the system "bled up", air moves quicker than oil which can give the symptoms you describe particularly on a single acting ram. send the body up and see if you can bounce it, if its full of oil (uncompressible) it wont move, if its got air in it, it will be "squishy" and probably goes up a bit jerky

In pic 3 the round thing with the battery lead is the solenoid power for the pump. The black rectangular thing is the solenoid for the down, the restriction usually lives between that and the tank so that it only works on the "back to tank" side and not the "up" side

I've just replaced the tipper mech on my truck and it goes up fine but goes down dangerously fast especially when loaded, it always did it before I replaced the motor etc, is it missing a valve or something?

When you send it down the oil is supposed to go back to tank trough a small hole controlling the speed of flow and thus decent

Sounds like its missing the flow restriction. It depends on the make but its usually in the aluminium housing under the solenoid switch. (its the bit with 2 small wires)

Send some pictures

Keep your bits safe if you do anything with it:thumbup1:

Consider any scope for unbolting the pillow block or even spiting the pillow block. Leaving the gearbox in situ on the shaft?

How's that going to work then???

It costs money to administer any organisation no matter what the industry.

. A portable angle grinder to cut the end of the securing bar and it's out and away.

You wouldn't even need a grinder, a junior hacksaw would do the trick:laugh1:

Thanks very much. Yes I'm waiting to get approval to post from one of the classic forums, but they ain't very quick off the mark....

but I'll keep trying. There isn't any sign of anything else from a trailer nearby, but the area is riddled with well grown over but well preserved tyre ruts from a ?1940s clear fell episode we think. Amazing how stuff can survive in the woods - but I guess (you) woodsfolk know all about that!!

Out of interest, why are the split rims a give away?

The most significant factor was that you can repair a split rim tyre with nothing more than a spanner and a Dunlop kit.

Commercial tyres were also high ply and getting them on a bead with levers was "difficult"

Hi All,

 

I'm looking at a career change following an end of long term contract. I've been looking into arb work & appreciate I gotta start from the bottom etc.

 

However, even tho I'm fit, am I past it at 50, or will a determined attitude prevail? I know I'm no 20 something, but I'd prefer to be doing something active - especially after teaching climbing for the past 10 years.

 

Because of a pay off, I can self fund for tickets & PPE etc.

 

Cheers, npg

Before you decide its worth bearing in mind that the audience you are asking consists of people that are in the trade (the made its) and the wannabe's.

You should weight the almost overwhelming "go for it" with the fact that this audience is unlikely to contain anyone who tried and failed.

It looks like an old commercial vehicle axle. The split rims are the giveaway there.

My guess is the it got where it is as part of a trailer and the test is rotted away

Classic tractor or some such would be a better place to ask about rusty mettal

If there's no oil in the diff it could be a Land Rover.

Or its all that remains of a Jap, after the tinwork has rotted away

Its a simple thing, you just put a URL redirect (a bit of code) on the first site and the browser automatically loads the target URL, most people don't even notice the browser didn't end up where they pointed it.

You can even direct traffic to a specific page within the target domain.

You just need access to the code on the first site and its free.

You can also set the sites to mirror each other, you have to have both sites hosted anyway so no cost implication and having them separate will help you with traffic monitoring.

Nah, they've just been there LONGER Gazza!!

I believe the proper term is "promoted into incompetence"

Can't issue pre-worn boots/ trousers / helmet = infection nightmare

:confused1:

As long as its functional and washed its fine, especially for a newbie

A hygiene kit is all you need for anything that wont go in the washer

Don't worry about that, the strimmer gang will have it done in within a couple of years

Cebora make mig good welders for a lot of big names as well as their own brand, the snap on 130 is a cebora.

Have a look at the wire feed assembly, some are plastic which flex and give no end of trouble, like the SIP I used to own

I'm pretty sure concrete hadn't been invented 250 years ago.

.

The Romans had concrete

I got these, they fit bashlin or buckingham

. Your legs will thank you