dave K

My mistake on the bar lenth ! I do when required run my stock 562 on 24" in both hard and soft woods, my ported 562 28" full comp and the guy doing the work did run my saw with a 30" on Fir. Full comp chain. I work on rough ground so the lightest saw possible is what I'm looking for and if you have the chance run a 562 with a "big" bar and it's far from "spoilt" If I have a sale of mostly oversize (3ft +) then yes bring out the 372 XP( 75cc) or bigger ! Back to the op's question, the large bar mount of the 562 is nice if you have other saws with that mount. As I said IMO the 562 runs "stronger" ? That said you can run the 560 on 3/8 by just adding the small dia 3/8 rim but although a small mount 20" bar is 72 DL a small mount 18" is 64 Dl as opposed to large mount bar 68 Dl so it just depends on what you have in the rest of the "fleet" ?

The 562 is a large bar mount hence the "wider" spacing for the clutch cover felling spike....It has more chip clearance due to this which is handy. On paper they ,560-562 , have the same specs but I own and run both and am sure the 562 is a stronger runner. The 562 is listed to run a 24" so stands to reason it's "chip" is a little stronger ? Also the larger air filter on the 562 must be accounted for on the 562's softwear. I have one stock 562 and two ported 562's, one 560 and one dead 560 !

Find out which model vermeer it is, if it is self propelled then it's not a 630B Ed. £ 500 is VERY cheap Im not talking the guy down but check all the bearings and belts ? Vermeer did 16hp upto 25hp on wheels not including the 352 which if it is then break his arms off as you pull it out of his hands ! at that price. Then you go up to the 505TX 50TX and 60TX I can't see it being one of those ? I suspect it's your run of the mill 252 which at that price even with a list of things to replace would be a good buy. If it's a 206 or 222 or one of the other odd vermeer's even at that price I would think twice.

08 S auto oiler and modern Stihl oil @ 50:1 would be alright, but on my old saws I always add a tiny bit more or don't quite put 5 lts in the can when adding petrol, Although Husky recomend 33:1 for saws bigger than 80cc ? On my Alpine Magnum 3120 I stick to 33:1 and have no problems.

In 10 years of climbing in Ireland I never found one upside down ! Now Im stump grinding for the last 3 years I wish they did grow upside down !!

070 and 090 (090 1968 -on and still in production in Brazil, 070 I think still in produced in Germany) have automatic oil system and the oil button is as you thought the same as the Husky 3120, a helper when that big ash butt is sucking all the oil off the bar ! If you find problems with the carb the diaphrams they are the same as a Stihl 08S and you would be suprised what is still avalible from the dealer. The 070 &090 have a odd type of govener fitted - it is a flap mounted on a spring and shaft connected to the choke - over rev and the air flow caused by the flywheel activates the choke so if the saw has been sitting for a long time this can get moved and cause problems. I use my Stihl Contra S, the grandad of the 090 and my 070 only in private jobs i.e not sites or parks and wear AV gloves ! 090 137cc 070 106cc and make the mix with a little bit more oil just to be sure.

All I do is stumps and the other guys have pretty much covered the main points , wires ,pipes etc do not forget the most horrific one to find wrapped around the cutter wheel- fibre optic ! As for machine that is really dictated by your work and what you can afford I run a Carlton 8018 PRO (100hp) and a Alpine Magnum as well as a hyd head on my Vermeer S600, to be replaced by one of Ed's Hornet's, The only stumps I will sometimes say no to is a stump holding a bank together and then just grind the top off. With regards to species, oak is easier than some poplars, sycamore can be a real pain and a lot of shrubs can surprise you.

Sounds like it is a stihl 08/ 08s the third cap is in fact the air filter cover assuming it is located at the rear of the saw just below the top handle ? One of the longest saw's in production and is still made at the stihl factory in Brazil. 56cc and could be converted into brush cutter, post hole auger and a drill !Also seen as TS 350 consaw

I know Alfie was filling out but can't he just jump into the truck !!??

As Iam one of those strange types that thinks old saws are great fun ! I have just aquired a 1963 Stihl BLK saw and need a few parts. Any one have any or know of any PM me with location price etc or indeed any old Stihl's in particular early 020's. The pics are of the BLK, on this saw you undo a clamp to rotate the bar since the carb could any work in upright position ! Thanks and hope we all have a good '09 !!!

Try here www. bkcg.co.uk if you can't find one there make you're own !!

You already answered the question ! make a note of the original filter number then before the next service contact some local suppliers and get the numbers of Crossland and Cooper filters of the correct type, make a note of those numbers,then armed with that info you should never have to waste time again !! Crossland and Cooper are about the most common so with those numbers you should have no further problems ?

So going back to the original question of the thread- anyone using or know anyone using a Micro Max auto sharpener ? Glad we have sourced the new Oregon grinding wheels in between !

I might let you gaze with longing !! Any idea what they cost new Ed ? This unit was new and been in store for about 5 years.

Anyone use or know of anyone using a Micro Max auto chain sharpener ? It's a wall mounted unit using air rams to move the chain and grinder head so you enter the number of drive links press a button and off it go's ! I need a instruction manual and any dealer info, it's made by Runnzell AB Malmo Sweden and at the moment I'm having problems contacting them. I've done a few chains and it's great to watch as I drink coffe instead of doing a 25" 404 chain by hand after finding several stones in the middle of that last stump !!