Husqvarna King

Put back together today, paint still soft though after 72hrs, scratched with finger nail needed a little more paint needed although all but under the spare wheel is smooth. Although it was ral2004 orange it hasn't matched well really. I wouldn't recommend 2k non isocyanate aerosol to anyone. Hope it hardens ☹️

??

3 minutes ago, Nicolas said:

I have found a connector behind the chipper (near the fuel tank), this connector is connecting all the feeders rollers switchs and emergency switch with the relay on the front of the chipper, lot of oxidation, after little cleaning the 12v is present on FWD SOL RELAY if I push the red bar.

 

The chipper work, i need to clean the connector very well.

Well done. ?

Hi, I'm not very good with machinery electrics but have run both older versions of the 160, the 125 and the entec 150. When I have had similar problems it has been the relay (car style one). One occasion it was the roller engagement switch.

Another thing on some of the older chippers is the throttle needs to be flat out to run the rollers. I had a bungee on the entec to stop it creeping back and the rollers stopping. It worked a treat.

Good luck and let us know how you get on ?

13 minutes ago, Richard 1234 said:

Can’t really tell it doesn’t look too bad on pics other than needing more paint.

it needs to feel smooth when done which is stating the obvious I suppose?

I left after taking the tape off, I think another can would have been about right, all that prep work to run out of paint ?

1 hour ago, Richard 1234 said:

Don’t know Upload some pictures 

With masking tape still over warning signs, took them off shortly after. The patch around the spare wheel is the worst and the vertical part behind the engine ?

So I put my top coat on today, the orange ral 2004 that timberwolf recommend is terrible against my 6 year old paint and after applying 2 cans - 4 coats ( to just the engine and fan section) I ran out of paint.

I'm gutted it looks awful, although the paint seems quite good. Should I let it dry and start all over again, rub down undercoat and respray with more cans this time? ?

40 minutes ago, gobbypunk said:

Hi it’s quite forgiving if it’s anything like the iso ,my first job was spray painter I did a 3 yr apprenticeship spraying Rolls Royce and other prestige cars and we mostly used iso 2pack that’s why my lungs are F###ed ,so if it goes on the same just crack on not too thick on the first coat it should look like dust and then the second coat a bit thicker so it looks wet but be careful not to get runs ,if in dought just build it up with as many thin ish coats as your paint will allow ,just out of interest what colour are you painting as black is the hardest it shows all the sanding marks a 360/400 wet and dry used wet to sand the primer degrease with thinners or panel wipe .good luck and do post a photo 

Thanks, going to start it soon, I'm only spraying the orange at the mo, appreciate the tips ?

1 minute ago, Richard 1234 said:

Don’t get too concerned re 2 pack paint except make sure to use face mask!

i was told years ago “ a fag break” between coats

Thank you, it's non iso 2pack so no more dangerous than any normal spray apparently

5 minutes ago, gobbypunk said:

Hi mate if you are unsure with the spray cans just dust it on lightly and as many coats as the paint allows but if you are quite good with a spray can lay it on a bit thicker but be warned if it’s too thick it will run so it’s up to how good you are at spraying 

Thanks for the advice, I'm not too bad at light spraying it's the fact that it's 2pack non iso that was worrying me with the hardening etc

Perhaps the theives are going to return it after discovering electrical problems ?

Hopefully the rightful owner will be reunited ?

With all the spare time on my hands at the moment I thought I would touch up the chipper (paint I mean, I'm not that fond of it!).

Well it was a lot worse that I thought, classic tw125 seams rusted etc and so far I have rubbed down and primed the engine and fan housing.

The spray shop I ordered my top coat from recommended non iso 2k paint as harder wearing and better around fuel etc so I went for it.

I have very little experience in this field and Google gives mixed reviews and ideas.

Has anybody got experience with these type of aerosols? Am I best to do 3-4 light coats 30mins apart or closer while paint is still tacky?

Some of the stories suggest if you don't get it right it doesn't harden properly.

Also any idea how long to leave until I use the machine again.

Thanks in advance

Another vote for uni power, I do remember having to wait weeks for a valve stem for an older Kohler command engine

40 minutes ago, trotter251 said:

21 hours ago, Husqvarna King said:

If you can get hold of a scag 48 they are so well built, better than anything in the UK by far. The rotary deck can be changed for a flail also which is very useful.  I wouldn't buy anything else

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I can't recommend scag enough, we currently run about 7 of them and they produce an excellent finish and are generally very reliable providing they are well maintained

Yes, I have a rotary and a flail, both 48inch walk behind, the rotary makes a beautiful job of both rough and amenity grass and the blades are thick and great for mulching. The flail is very useful for chopping up hedge cuttings in areas where you don't have to be too fussy.

Service them every year and never any problems ?

If you can get hold of a scag 48 they are so well built, better than anything in the UK by far. The rotary deck can be changed for a flail also which is very useful.  I wouldn't buy anything else ?

Running bowline on dismantles, descend on single line if needed, a wrapped cam saver works if you keep a bit of weight in it. I borrowed a multisaver on one large pole one day, was handy and could see advantages, pretty cheap and could pop back up stem after lunch. If you're descending a single line on a friction hitch don't forget to put a munter in a crab on your harness or fig 8 ?

3 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

You couldn't use it for felling,
Totally useless outside of a mill frame.
Flexes like paper in the wind.
Biggest bar I've used for felling is the 48" stihl.
The tree was 8' diameter.

Yeah that's why I asked, 48 is the biggest I have ever used 84" must be huge. Very handy to mill big stuff with poor access I bet ?

12 hours ago, Rough Hewn said:

My 84" bar weighs the same as my 880.

84" that's huge!! Do you take it surfing at the weekend?!!

Seriously though is it purely for milling? It must flex a lot....must have to use a smaller bar to start cut if felling surely? Have you ever felled anything that needed it?

?

4 minutes ago, Paul Tomo said:

I have just checked our local councils website on the conservation and TPO section and there’s no information coming up about this tree or the site/property that the tree is situated on. I will take it that this tree has no TPO order on it.

 

I will speak again with the customer and let him know that I have made checks on wether the tree had an order on it.

Thanks again for the advice.

 

Paul Tomo

 

I would say that this is probably correct but there's one area where I work regularly and the tpo map still shows trees that were removed 25 years ago and a conservation area was enlarged and not put on the map straight away

I don't think you can beat the steel wedges, heavy and make you more careful when cutting but brilliant. I have a high lift steel my grandfather gave me when I first started, still take it on every felling job. Have a few Oregon plastic for smaller fells and have 3 unused Stihl hilifts that I bought last year. I was advised by someone much wiser than me to put two rings on the end, helps stop the splitting. I heated them up in an old kettle and banged them on ?

2 minutes ago, dig-dug-dan said:

For me, it would be jen pringle ( anyone who has small children who watch channel 5 milkshake will know what I mean!), Victoria coren Mitchell, Jodie whittiker! 

Jen Pringle is nice, plenty of energy too. Coran Mitchell could suffocate me with them tits anyday....what a way to go ?

1 minute ago, trigger_andy said:

Emma Stone, please! Swapsies for a week? 

No, She doesn't chew helmet apparently

Anyone but the wife after the last week ?

I'm really not fussy.....but

Laura Hamilton

Susanna Reid

Emma Stone

Seen people advertising the holzforma, ready built apparently you can put genuine Stihl/ husq parts in place or carb, coil etc and they ain't too bad, but then you'd spend more and would be less hassle to buy genuine and new anyway....unless you wanted an 076 ?

1 minute ago, HoweToArb said:

Ideally looking for two all rounded saws that can do most things something like the ms261 I found that to be a nice saw but it always seemed to have problems every couple of months 

 

I've heard the 2511 is good and the 360 that’s why I needed the advice I’m not sure what would be best ?

Have used a 2511, on a couple of occasions, would be great for reductions and cuts of 4-5inch, for mainly takedowns and the odd reduction the 360 would be best