Husqvarna King

14 minutes ago, Stubby said:

I think guards are a hindrance . 

I do agree, but definitely not with a blade, I got hit from a little 130 engine a few years ago that hurt ?, let alone a proper blade on a proper engined strimmer

Fitted the shredder guard today and both a 300mm shredder blade and a 270mm shredder blade. There's clearance I think it'd be ok, what do you guys think?

Ok, so I ordered the shredder guard for the 460. But is says max diameter 270mm, and I had bought two 300 mm Oregon shredder blades.

Do they fit? How do you guys work around this?

1 hour ago, ABtrees said:

As David (above).

Tried using the strimmer guard with the triblade - hit a blackthorn with the guard which bent into the blade (pic 1 below).  The 'masher' guard is much bigger and sturdier - not only blocks out a lot more flying bits but has a much smaller horizontal surface area if your shredding down on top of bramble etc (see pic 2).  For £18 (Jonesie) no hesitation recommending the right guard with the right blade and they literally take 2 minutes to swap over with the long torx plug spanner supplied (if you remember to take it with you !!!)

 

That's what imagined would probably happen. Appreciate you putting the photos in, gives a good scale of the shredder guard too. Thank you ?

4 hours ago, gand said:

Had a feeling you'd have that one. If you change to the other the other guard at least you'll be able to use both. I can double check at work tomorrow if you want 

That would be great, thanks. Just want change overs to be as easy as possible ?

Thanks for the reply, yes it looks like only for line trimming....this is the guard

Hi, I have Stihl 460 brush cutter with just a strimmer head with the mowing guard(with black rubber flap and knife for cord length.

But....I want to run some blades, double and triple mulching blades and also the metal Tri flat blade.

What do you guys recommend, obviously to prevent objects getting thrown I want a guard, even though I know it slows cutting. Can I just take the cord knife and flap off? Should I buy the metal blade guard? Is the shredder guard necessary or too restrictive?

I will be swapping from line to blade on some sites so just want the best all round setup if possible. Thanks

Had a 98 entec that I only sold a couple of year ago. It had a no stress  unit. When it broke,around 2010 I had it replaced with the same system as the timberwolf 125/150, it only cost 3-400 quid from memory (at prochip) and was still working well when I sold it ?

Never get bored of any of his videos, superb work and big balls.... I remember seeing a video of him back notching a top and the coming down and felling the other direction so that it folded into a small drop zone, it was superb but I can't seem to find it

Don't sell it!! Really regret selling my 357, great saw and that looks in good nick. It'll still be going when the newer ones are on the scrap heap

Wish I had known this when I have had to lightly reduce tree of heaven, bloody horrible trees to get out on  limbs to prune lightly.....would have been a good way to get out of it ?

12 hours ago, Dilz said:

any one used one of these? was considering the 1300 but the lower weight is appealing. Will be used on tight access jobs and small garden clearances e.g chipping lilacs back into a border etc. 

I used the 1300 on a job helping a friend in a narrow access job. It was quite impressive for its cost and size, but I wouldn't want it any smaller

16 minutes ago, neiln said:

So the fake might not have along life...we will find out in time whether the file comes out before the thing breaks or not.

 

the other test is of course, does it work?  well ..yes!  better than the stihl one!  I'll start be caveating, I only have this trouble with the 3/8P 2 in 1, the standard 3/8 and 5.2mm version works great on my bigger chains but wit hthe pm3 stuff i have 2 problems.  firstly the flt file never does anyhting more than kiss the raker, even on a chain that is right down and losing cutters.  I have put this down to a possibly over hardened arbtec/northernarbsupplies/pirhanna chain but wasn't convinced as even at the end of use on the chain both sets of guide rails would properly ride along the teeth either side of that one being sharpened.  The other problem, although the chain still seemed to cut ok, the round files seem as if set too high and I never got any hook to the cutter.  the cutter would go straight up to the working corner, or even backwards by the time the file was really worn.  The chinese fake has the flat file/raker problem BUT does seem to get a better shape on the cutters.

 

not perfect...this tooth still seems a bit straight up.

 

 

I thought these (Stihl ones) looked a good idea....these pics have really put me off. Thanks for your review ?

Another vote for spectrum, great for sharpening too...and you get sweeties ?

29 minutes ago, Stubby said:

I have a T540 MK1.5 . Its a MK 1 with the stiffer barrel shaped AV springs and stiffened up grey belly plate from the MK 2 . Until these mods were fitted  it would fall in half if you dropped it on its strop . Its fine now .

Sounds like a good bit of kit, did you modify it yourself? I'm pretty careful with my saws but waiting for the day it falls in half 

10 hours ago, Artborist said:

Looking to buy a new Top handled Chainsaw Stihl ms201t or Husqvarna t540xp ?

I have the mark1 540, I love it and it's superb on take downs. Maybe a bit flimsy if you have workers using it although apparently they changed the AV springs for buffers in the newer one so must be better, although I'd heard not quite as much go in as the earlier models like mine. It comes with different size top handles which is a nice touch.

The 201 has improved since it first came out and is meant to be pretty good and seems to be the more popular with most of the guys I work with nowadays. I was put off by three of the 201's in the shop having cracked oil filler guards/casing....would have meant that as it got dragged through the tree the oil cap would have taken the bashing.

Don't rule out the echo....on hot days I'd choose it for reliability and happy to put up with the slightly less power.

Good luck with whatever you choose ?

On 23/05/2020 at 13:59, Husqvarna King said:

 ?

The sub base is the drive way, the gravel just makes it look nice, gravel as shallow as possible really and compacted in. Definitely no more than 2inch. 1 ton of gravel will do approx 15-20sqM at 2"thick

I took down two sycs with this around 10 years ago, remember asking on here what it was, two days cutting in as many days....no problems as far as I know. Thanks for the heads up ?

11 hours ago, Peter 1955 said:

I couldn't find that information anywhere, must not have been looking in the right place. Might just order some 2.7 and try it, nothing to lose, thanks. 

I use 3mm square or star line, just whittle an edge off to get in the holes on the standard head. If you're cutting fine grass the thinner is better but I find 3mm the best all round

8 minutes ago, htb said:

Also check the holders the blades bolt to are tight as IIRC they are bolted to the flywheel. Did you clean the seats the blades sit in before fitting the new ones and what torque setting as I think its 45ft/Lb.

As mick said spinning flywheel with belts will show up any failing bearing or fouling on anvil.

I cant remember what clearance there should be btw blade and anvil, off the top of my head its something like 3-4mm.

I always clean off before fitting new blades yes but I haven't checked if the blade pockets are tight, do these have a torque? I always torque the blades ?

Blades had done about 10 hours, the inside blade was fine and good edge on main part of blad in photo. That's the 4th set to have worn exactly the same way right on the outer edge of flywheel. Will whip the belts off next week and have a look/listen. Cheers

I bought a low hour timberwolf 125 from orange plant last year.

I haven't done many hours on it yet but change the blades much sooner than recommended to keep the machine in good condition.

Each time the edge of the outer blade has been badly worn with the rest of the blade and other inside blade being in good condition. I have run my finger along anvils and last time took off a very small bur, this time it had still done the same, any ideas? It chips very well and I can't hear anything when I turn the flywheel by hand

Concrete is permeable, seen it before but I concreted some drop down bollards with normal concrete, they are inside undercover and even though in a concrete Wellington they still fill with groundwater in winter and a lot of it. I was surprised how much.

If I remember correctly I think you have to be careful with waterproofer and reinforcing not sure if they go together. Good luck ?

Put back together today, paint still soft though after 72hrs, scratched with finger nail needed a little more paint needed although all but under the spare wheel is smooth. Although it was ral2004 orange it hasn't matched well really. I wouldn't recommend 2k non isocyanate aerosol to anyone. Hope it hardens ☹️