Husqvarna King

Have you watched the recent reg coates video? Even the American guys were mentioning spud. Which is very good considering there seems to be more "saw doctors" over that side of the water. I currently don't have any modded saws, although it has crossed my mind especially on the 660. I would imagine the older style saws would be more worth it as they seem sturdier built and will last longer than the new high performance throw away crap. Just my opinion.

1 hour ago, forestboy1978 said:

Ropes were damp so wore no gloves.  What concerns me is I can't clench my fists without pain.

 

Feels like leg day but for the hands....

I use these, very cheap and have several pairs for wet days. Can't open your files to see the tree..... sounds like you did a good job ?

Get yourself down to Essex and booked into Steve Woodley's hewing course.......then you could change your name to 'smooth hewn' and would be more employable ?, nice photos by the way ?

2 hours ago, forestboy1978 said:

I think this is the option. I just don't like leaving the zigzag up there. Perhaps could camouflage it somehow. 

Can't you just slide it off the end of the rope (not the spliced eye end obviously)?

Just now, forestboy1978 said:

Next question lol.....

 

How do one get a cambian saver up a tree and a rope through it correctly with a throw line?

The easiest way is with a cam saver with a mallion rapid one end as the small ring. You can set your throw line, then put the throw bag through the big ring ( attach a karabiner if it falls out) and the the other line at ground level can be put through the mallion rapide or fed through the small ring if it can't be unscrewed. Pull into place with a flip action to get into the crotch. Then attach your rope to the line, I use a running bowline with several half hitches (one near the end of rope), very important so that your rope goes through the rings easily. Should be loads of video on YouTube. Other ways of setting them. And you can even feed the throw line through the small ring before you throw.....but I always forget that ?

33 minutes ago, forestboy1978 said:

I'm sure they wont hurt getting a bit wet if they can dry off later somewhere but what about security?

 

I've bought https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B001R4BPOI/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

 

to lock it to tree

This had been said before, what if a squirrel nibbled at it? Its not really worth it. If I have a job that's more than one day I would retrieve everything and just leave a throw line or cheap polypropylene in place. With customers consent of course 

1 minute ago, Vespasian said:

LOL........ whats with the LOL's.   you think everything has to be done by some rule book..  

 

a lot of people use their old ropes as rigging lines for light rigging don't they..   we have one side goin on about it being shiny and new, and now some goin on about something being old and beaten up.. you can't win can you..

 

I think its worth reminding people that the fella who made this device has forty years tree work experience under his belt..  I'm sure he knows what he's doin..   

Maybe people do use old climb lines for rigging but on an instructional/advertisement video it's pretty poor. Especially on a piece of rigging kit designed to prevent shock (lowering large wood). I would like to see their risk assessment and method statement if that had to make an insurance claim. "Yes judge my climb....erm I mean rigging rope has up to date loler" ?

I have a 180 amp stick welder that can be turned up higher with industrial electrical supply. It wasn't that expensive, £180 I think. I bought a gasless mig hoping it would make welding thin stuff easier but it's horrible. I normally just stick weld everything now. The gasless wire is expensive as it has a built in flux. Also it blows just as many holes in thin metal as an arc welder so really no advantage

I heard it was prolonged cold that did them in....5+ days or so of below -8degrees or so

6 minutes ago, Mick Dempsey said:

 

Dunno, but  long enough for the clients to ask him to chip in with some rent, only fair.

I recon he's holding out for a Christmas box ?

You can Pollard that, they respond fine. Half way should do. Late Winter is best late February ?

42 minutes ago, David Dobedoe said:

Putting your hands in the exhaust when climbing, heated handles on the ground saws.

With the old 020av you never got a choice, normally smelt burning jumper first ?

5 minutes ago, TIMON said:

 

13mm on a zigzag is a nightmare. I watched my mate struggle with it for a few months before he changed to 11.7 mm

 

That's what I'd heard, was hoping they'd do a slightly larger version for 13mm.... But nothing as yet

Also interested in the Zigzag when my 13mm new England is out of date. Just concerned, I love 13mm rope, does 11.7 feel much different when pulling on the hands? Is descent that much faster than a prussik? I was hoping they would have done a ZZ more suited to 13mm rope. Does it seem a pain on small climbs having to pass the whole rope through the ZZ? I normally just use a prussik and add a pulley on larger trees.

4 minutes ago, forestboy1978 said:

I know mate. YOu're always very respecful. 

 

Are you sure though that wont develop nicely. I have pruned probably 1000s of plants in my time. I know how they work, but not trees. 

There's many far wiser with much more experience than me. Generally if it's healthy you don't want to be making large cuts like that (looks loads more than 8ft) probably double. Agree that you are reducing sail but in years to come it will probably look a bit shit

1 minute ago, forestboy1978 said:

This is what I want to do. 

 

Red are cuts. 

 

Purple is new formation

I try to prune trees for how they will look in future, not when I leave the job site. Not having a dig mate took me a while to learn after effect of pruning

9 minutes ago, forestboy1978 said:

I agree. I think it's beautiful. I don't tink 8 - 10ft of the left side and some re shaping would harm aeshethics. Would just reduce wind resisistene a little. 

 

As I say, customer wants it done. I have no objection to taking 10 ft off one side and removing ivy. Any more and I'll decline it. 

But the re growth will be in undesirable places... On branch ends etc. Trying to make a new leader.

2100 husq....a beast ?

15 minutes ago, Rough Hewn said:

Best saw husky made is a 395.
Utter monster.

2100 or 2101

7 minutes ago, forestboy1978 said:

Cable bracing?

 

What's the harm in taking that taller left stem off by 8 ft and ripping off ivy

 

Surely a slightly bevelled cut on the stem would stop ponding. Sealing it perhaps even. 

 

What difference would 8ft make?? Sealing was not recommended years ago. It does more harm than good.

1 minute ago, forestboy1978 said:

 

Cable Bracing? If it needs keeping. Don't top it

26 minutes ago, forestboy1978 said:

They are adamant it's reduced in height by 1/3.

 

phone cables every where, busy street, pedestrian and traffic management required. 

 

 

1/3 off a Scott's pine?! Just recommend ivy removal or removal of whole tree. It will look shit topped and will pose more danger in the future if topped

1 hour ago, maria warwick said:

Where's my popcorn ?..... 

The build up...it's like a movie....this could be the DVD box cover ?

I have a pair of electric boot dryers husky make them. I dry wet boot with them but also put them in when I wake up (even if dry) if I know it's going to be cold. Starting with warm feet helps

Careful you don't injure your fanny ??