Lancstree

How come there is work for climbers in the outback? Just interested as I thought it was wild and fairly unpopulated

Had a go with a spiderjack with yale imori. I've not tried any other types of rope with it but find that it does not self tend as well as seen in videos. Does the texture of imori not lend itself suitable for spiderjack use as well as other tighter weave ropes and perhaps smaller diameter stuff?

When higher in the tree it feeds pretty well. The one handed adjustment is invaluable and opens up a new way of climbing for me. If I get one, the rope choice will be crucial

Looks like marlow gecko to me

Are these carved out of green wood? Wouldn't mind doing that sort of thing myself . What too

I've just come back from a holiday there. Trees down all over the place that need sorting. I couldn't visit the famous gardens at Gigha because of this!

Nice one. Thanks

Does anyone know which suppliers have these in stock and what price they are? Its the load bearing bit that goes from the red ring to the lower D. http://www.teufelberger.com/uploads/tx_txconceptadownloads/Hueft-Beinkit_06.pdf

I usually go on holiday in feb or march but I hate looking for them on the internet. Its really annoying for multiple reasons. Does anyone know a good company or website to get a nice break somewhere warm or mild at least. Perhaps you've been somewhere recently that you would recommend.

I usually book flight and accommodation separately but would consider a package holiday for ease and so that I could scoff my face with buffet all day long.

Just been given one of these art rope guides !! pain in the ass !! cant see that its worth the hassle.

Wanna sell it?

Got a pair of alloy gecko's and just fitted new gaffs (american short). Been trying them out and there is a comfort issue with my left knee. It seems like the shaft is digging in to the knee bone. I've altered the length to the lowest setting and I believe they are the small size. There is no problem whatsoever with my right leg. It is possible that I have more pronounced bone on my left knee or that one leg is slightly shorter. This wasn't a problem with my old spikes with the metal inserts in the pads.

Anyone had this problem?

Thanks for the info. I will call clearview and see what they say. The folks are away tonight and I just popped down there. Its very windy, the fire is not lit and its whistling away. When the door is opened the whistling stops my dad says.

Its a clearview stove, fitted around october this year so very new. The chimey cavity is packed with vermiculite around the flue. The cowl is a very simple one with a rain guard. Seems like it could be a lot of different things. The door seal seems intact.

My Dad has a stove with a flue liner and cowl. In the wind it whistles and makes a sound like someone blowing on a milk bottle. The sound carries right through the house and keeps him awake at night. The only thing that stops the noise is opening the stove door which you can't do when its lit really.

Has anyone experienced something like this and what did you do to solve it?

It sounds like they sent you their generic risk assessment. What would be interesting to see is their site specific. I bet they did not do one and that would be unequivocal evidence of neglect. Sorry to bang on about risk assessments but that seems to be what they are basing their 'not negligent' claim on, so that is what you have to challenge. If they are awkward about showing you any paperwork, just send a letter quoting the freedom of information act and they will be quaking in their boots

Mine stays in with the right wood. I find ash stays in best if I load it up around 10pm and in the morning (I get up at 6am) the fire is about 100-200 degrees. My rope seal is not the best so it would keep in even better. Its a clearview 500

I wonder where in their risk assessment does it mention it is safe to carry out strimming operations that close to property. If a person was walking within three feet of a strimmer in use and got injured, would they call the 'not negligent' card? Well I like to think that they would stop strimming to allow a pedestrian to pass safely and the same consideration should be given to property. I've worked with a fellow who takes the guard off the trimmer so he can get close into curbs and such like and he's lethal.

this looks good. I was recently introduced to using a sling and a crab for a redirect. The sling was wrapped around the desired limb in such a way that it was secure under load but retrievable by simply flicking the climbing line to release it from being 'trapped' on itself. This was used in an aerial rescue practice but I don't see why it couldn't be used in every day climbing.

When I worked in the states I remember having a safety briefing because a chap from our company in a different state was killed in this way. Not certain but I think it was a dead leaning elm. I've had it happen to me on smallish stuff and it frightened me so now if I take myself out of the loop.

Just passed my B+E today. It was one of the most exhausting experiences I've had in a long time

and some more

and some more

Just a few pics of a job I did recently. The trees were affecting wall and nearby shop but also had to go to make way for some civil engineering works. The street was a busy bus route and the trees were right up against the wall. Targets included holly trees (which were to be saved to replace the pops but one had to be removed), container trees, which were moved using plant, benches which were moved and ornate lamp posts. The first tree removed overhung the gable end property. At the other side of the wall was a river so it all had to be lowered apart from the bigger logs which were ringed and pushed into a pile on the ground cover. All pics were taken with my camera phone so no action pics unfortunately.

I know what you mean Mark but I don't know the answer. My best guess is that you are using more energy on the second swing than on the first to try to ensure it splits. Upon failing to spit on the second swing you put even more effort in and on it goes. Then you have to do the sly check over the shoulder to make sure no one can see you are struggling! Getting the maul unstuck from a knotty piece is even more knackering.

Both good tips. I have the pulley sent up in a similar fashion to your description bob but I think the marlin spike might be a better choice for undoing than the slip knot. I used a redirect pulley today which came in really useful but thinking of it I could make a lot more use out it. I like to learn off other people when I get the chance. Not got CS41 Bob. They are putting us on a aerial rescue and use of saw in tree refresher totalling 3 days but they might as well have made it a week training and had the CS41 included. Should be interesting though!

There are many rigging products and combinations available today but I'm restricted to working with some fairly basic kit. Sometimes when I'm up a tree setting up ropes and pulleys, I try to think of easier ways of doing it. For example, getting the rigging line sent up with block and carabiners ready to go. What I'm after is some ideas on how to carry this gear about the tree more efficiently to safe strain and frustration.

Another example; Just lowered a piece and groundy ties a slip knot leaving a long 2-3m tail so that when the rope is sent up the slip knot acts as a stopper in the pulley and the tail can then be attached to the next piece, rather than battle with the weight of the whole rope.

If I'm moving the block around the crown for different lowering positions, I always separate the block from the lowering line using the pin so that the block can be set without the weight of the rope pulling it out of the tree.

Does anyone like loopies for ease of setting the block on the small diameter stuff?