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Lancstree

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Posts posted by Lancstree

  1. This may well need to turn into a warning thread.

     

    First thing I noticed was a bit of wear on the dyneema sling near the little anchor ring. Then it was apparent that the red adapter that contains the sling was very loose.

     

    This is what I think has happened. The red adapter ring has come loose (unknown reason), then this has allowed the anchor ring at the end of the sling to grate up against the edge of the spiderjack body causing it to form a sharp edge, which in turn has been cutting away at the dyneema sling. I inspected our second climbers setup which is exactly the same but has only been used in an aerial rescue practice - so nearly new. The way we have the rubber stoppers on the carabiner might explain why the adapter has come loose. The pictures below will show this.

     

    Anybody with a spiderjack 2.1 dyneema, be extra vigilant when inspecting it.

  2. Had another go today and I seem to be getting better at making it self tend. It's like pushing and pulling at the same time if you get what I mean! You are pulling yourself up but at the same time pushing the line down in a straight line for it to feed through. I'm very pleased with it as it made a nightmare dense lime quite a pleasure to work in

  3. Yeah got used to the braking pretty fast after watching the spiderjackery vid. I hope with the way I'm doing it I'm entirely on the wooden block and saving clutch wear. Sometimes on natural anchors descent with the wooden block can be a bit slow because of the friction which would happen with any other system. I want to use cambium saver as much as poss but some trees require changing anchor quite a bit so it's not always practical. I've also found that the sj does not lock on when there is a bit of friction on the rope; e.g when making your way up using natural forks or when you are sropped in and want to put your weight into the sj before taking the strop off.

  4. Cheers. It really came in handy today as I was tied into one tree to climb another and virtually climbed it one handed where I would of needed to strop in at various points with the hitchclimber. I've actually had it self tend a bit when the rope is deflected. The blue tonge is a lovely rope to work with but I sometimes think functionality has been sacraficed as something a little more rigid would feed in easier. However it's early days and I'm sure I'll be as happy as you lot with it.

  5. Started using this setup yesterday and found the rope good to grip but sometimes it didn't feed into the spiderjack too well. This may be because I'm a novice spiderjack user but I've watched spiderjackery 3 and payed attention. It happened when I was out on a limb and the rope was deflected back to where I came from ( the angle was quite flat mind you). I tried one handed adjustment and it just created slack above the sj.

     

    Also when starting off from the bottom of the tree can be problematic but I suppose this can be overcome by starting off from the top of ladders or getting someone to hold the rope until sufficiently high. I've not tried blaze or any 11mm rope with the sj but would imagine that they are a little stiffer and push through easier. I prefer 11.7mm on the hands though

     

    I love the control of the modified version and the neatness of the setup.

  6. For the reason robarb stated I presume. I was reading the manual for the saw and it said the scabbard is designed to stay on the saw in the tree and has two loops to clip onto your harness when you want to take it off. I found it too much faff but it might be useful when passing the saw up the tree or walking up ladders for it catching your keks

  7. We've got a new stihl pole saw (can't remember the model but will find out tomorrow) and we got the harness that has a bent bar that goes around your left shoulder for attachment. I've tried all sorts of adjustments and can't seem to get along with it because it seems to put all the weight on my left side. Does anyone use this type of harness? The pole saw seems to be heavier than the HT75 and it has a big plastic handle under the engine.

  8. I think I know the name. It sounds like p-she-mek. Say it fast and it will sound more authentic. The 'p' part is very subtle, the e in 'she' and 'mek' is more like 'eh'.

    I have some Polish friends with a relative with this name. Not sure how it's spelt properly

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