Brushcutter

PPE is the last line of defence something has gone very wrong if your cutting your trousers/ boots. A failure of many other steps. Mainly adminstrative thing like work breaks and welfare facilities to reduce fatigue, timescales and deadlines to prevent rushing. Operator refresher training and experience. Level of supervision for the operation adherence to best practice. The HSE would be all over this step well before they cared about the trousers rating. As FISA 301 states no PPE Can give 100% protection against cuts with a chainsaw. I did wear class 2 trousers for a few years just because they were on sale. They were ok. Not much less flexible than my gladiators. That I had before and after.. only ever worn Haix protector pro boots and they are class one.

Mk 1 husky saws were bad on the restart when hot. They work better if you follow the hot start process of putting the choke on taking it off so it starts at half throttle. My MK1 was bad for it especially in the summer. Eventually it went in for repair and it has a new carb under warranty, which was the issue. What was wrong with it exactly I can't remember. Tank breather isn't blocked is it?

As far as I am aware there is no NPTC or Lantra award for milling in general. Your chainsaw mill would be covered by your chainsaw maintenance and cross cut as the power source. I once did a band saw course which I got sent on and the guy who did it knew less about band saws than milling than I did. He was expecting a little workshop resaw as that's all he sees. A Robinson's resaw and a stenner 41 were too far out his comfort zone so I felt we showed him more than he showed us. So specific training for band saws and table saws exists. As the PUWER requirement would be to show suitable training did you get any from the machinery suppliers. If not maybe see if they could do you something? The other option if a local training provider would be willing to do a certificate of training. Then you have something to show people.

Depends on the school. One school I go to every contractor has to have an enhanced DBS. If you don't no work. Blanket policy. Some places they you have a minder. If you need an enhanced DBS the school have to do it for you. It costs them rather a lot 250 quid I think. Once it's through you can sign up to the update service and it keeps it up to date for 38 quid a year. I do this so they can just check me if they need. Way I see it if the staff need checking the contractor do too. You just charge accordingly don't you.

Post code lottery. Having things like drive and garage make a difference. My insurance is sky high as nobody else around here bothers with it....

Disodium Metasilicate

346/357 leaked chain oil like it was free. It's just a little seal on the pump that's normally the issue. Seems like your going to have to spend some money putting new bits on it. Bit of Stihl varioclean should clean up the outside.

A very good saw. Had the option of running .325 or 3/8 chain you just had to change the sprocket and the plastic bit that went in the worm gear that the sprocket sits in. Didn't really suffer with spitting out exhaust bolts the way the 346 did,.or at least that was my experience. Although replaced by the 560 the 550 feels more like it's direct comparison. Price wise modern saws are silly money. Second hand saws are also silly money. I think at it's youngest it's going to be nearly 15 years old I think! I wouldn't want to pay more than £200 quid for it but I think £300 would be a more realistic figure nowadays

Check Amazon. I recently picked up a triple pack of 14" Oregon 3/8p 1.3.guage 91vx I think l. For just 18 quid. So at £6 each I can't argue. Just come in a Oregon branded bag in a cardboard box of 3.

Thought about a BCS? serious money but seriously flexible. You can change between a rotary and flail mower and other bits. Downside the flail is only 80cm.

I've got a little Aldi chain grinder. It's ok. Cheap and cheerful for how often I use it. It looks like a cheap copy of the basic Oregon grinder. I've used the fancy Oregon one with hydraulic chain clamping. It's the one to have in the Oregon line up.the Stihl one is also very good but once you've added on all the extra bits it's very expensive. But these things do last forever so and you can charge people to sharpen their crap chains and blades. Of course you could always import a simington grinder from the US and get a mess about converting it to run of 230v vat import duty shipping. It will make all the other grinders look cheap.

You need employers which is the only legally required insurance for the climber that works under your instructions. Public liability is optional but you would be a fool not to have it. Most insurance companies will do a combined el/pl policy. Worth having tools insurance depending on how much you own. As for certs of competence I had to provide the company all my certs. And I have to hold a copy of my subbies certs just in case.

If theses guys. Are close Pioneering application products for agricultural & amenity WWW.TECHNEAT.CO.UK Techneat develops and manufactures specialist application products for agricultural and amenity markets, one-offs or large-scale... They have plastic welded quite a few leaky spray tanks for me over the years

If you don't do a lot a combi unit is great and some weird tools only fit on a combi. If you do a lot then purpose built tools are a lot better. When I first got one it got used loads as a tiny strimmer and a long reach hedgecutter. But what happened was I then worked out I needed those two tools and it just because a pole saw. On the petrol ones the vibration is higher than the purpose built equivalent. I've got a husky combi which came with the little strimmer which is great. I also have the edger and the power brush. Very uelseful bits of kit that only go on a combi. With the Stihl ones I think all the old petrol attachments fit on the new battery combi.

APF '27