Lovenhelm stoves

[Wood wasp]

Draws air from the room but it's a fairly big kitchen with double doors to outside plus another door to outside utility room and hallway so there's plenty of drafts (draughts?)

 

Spaceman - is flue outlet simply the top of the chimney?

 

My concern is that it's just burning too hot as always drawing so I'll look at blocking rear hole. Thanks all for comments

[openspaceman]

Draws air from the room but it's a fairly big kitchen with double doors to outside plus another door to outside utility room and hallway so there's plenty of drafts (draughts?)

 

My concern would be the possibility of a poor seal allowing CO into the room before the chimney got warm, way round would be to duct the air from the intake to the draught regulator.

 

A draft is a rough sketch or outline unless you speak american, draught is a breeze or a pint.

 

 

Spaceman - is flue outlet simply the top of the chimney?

 

In my terminology the flue outlet is where the flue gases leave the stove and enter the chimney, I may be wrong

 

My concern is that it's just burning too hot as always drawing so I'll look at blocking rear hole. Thanks all for comments

 

It's burning hot because too much oxygen is getting to the fuel. Oxygen in air is sucked in to the primary and secondary air inlets because there is a depression (small vacuum not a hoover) in the stove, this depression ensures no combustion products get into the room from poorly sealed doors or hot plates. The depression is formed because the column of hot flue gas in the chimney is lighter than the colder air in the room. The taller and hotter the chimney is the larger the difference in buoyancy of the gases.

[Wood wasp]

I'm away for few days but once back will have a look at this in more detail, if it's still burning too hot I'll maybe get the guy who fitted it back to do it right, he charged girlfriend enough money for it.

[Mull]

Seems a lot of stoves now are designed not to "slumber", bad for the planet.

[openspaceman]

Seems a lot of stoves now are designed not to "slumber", bad for the planet.

 

 

For slumber read smoulder.

 

Wood decomposes in stages as it burns, the heat for this comes from the dissociation of oxygen molecules on freshly made char. This gives off heat which pyrolyses and gasifies neighbouring masses of wood. If the gases given off are above their autoignition temperature or there is a flame present with sufficient secondary air these gases will ignite . If not, because the fire is shut down then the gases will not burn out and will be vented as smoke. This smoke can contain up to 70% of the chemical energy in the wood but also Products of Incomplete Combustion: tars, CO Methane, aldehydes, ketones and other things which aren't good for the atmosphere. So shutting a fire down to smoulder overnight isn't a good thing. Damping down a bed of hot coals is a lesser evil as it only emits CO which is only a problem if you breathe it in at over 30 parts per million.

[Mull]

For slumber read smoulder.

 

 

 

Wood decomposes in stages as it burns, the heat for this comes from the dissociation of oxygen molecules on freshly made char. This gives off heat which pyrolyses and gasifies neighbouring masses of wood. If the gases given off are above their autoignition temperature or there is a flame present with sufficient secondary air these gases will ignite . If not, because the fire is shut down then the gases will not burn out and will be vented as smoke. This smoke can contain up to 70% of the chemical energy in the wood but also Products of Incomplete Combustion: tars, CO Methane, aldehydes, ketones and other things which aren't good for the atmosphere. So shutting a fire down to smoulder overnight isn't a good thing. Damping down a bed of hot coals is a lesser evil as it only emits CO which is only a problem if you breathe it in at over 30 parts per million.

 

 

Pretty much what I said then👍

[Wood wasp]

So I'm back from travels and picking up on this again. Stove installer visited (though I wasn't at house) and said its most likely to do with length of chimney creating excessive draw so needs to fit a valve into flue, alternatively possibly try and reduce draw by shutting down top of chimney.

 

The latter sounds a bodge job, is it even possible to do something like that? Any pressure valve should've been fitted in first place, does anyone have an image of one in place, are they fitted just above stove?

 

Any advice to help me understand best solution would be appreciated as I'm not impressed by installer at all.

[openspaceman]

So I'm back from travels and picking up on this again. Stove installer visited (though I wasn't at house) and said its most likely to do with length of chimney creating excessive draw so needs to fit a valve into flue, alternatively possibly try and reduce draw by shutting down top of chimney.

 

The latter sounds a bodge job, is it even possible to do something like that? Any pressure valve should've been fitted in first place, does anyone have an image of one in place, are they fitted just above stove?

 

Any advice to help me understand best solution would be appreciated as I'm not impressed by installer at all.

 

Much as I suggested in post 10, click on the link to see a generic picture, I do wish I had tagged my photos as I cannot find any of our actual installations of a draught control flap.

[Wood wasp]

Yes thanks Spaceman, I saw the pic and appreciate you putting link up. I was trying to see what they looked like fitted and where they go, our stove has adaptor at rear to allow pipe to go vertically up into old chimney block (pic attached), will this pipe need cut into (or raised) to allow valve to be fitted?

 

Appreciate you taking an interest.

[openspaceman]

Yes thanks Spaceman, I saw the pic and appreciate you putting link up. I was trying to see what they looked like fitted and where they go, our stove has adaptor at rear to allow pipe to go vertically up into old chimney block (pic attached), will this pipe need cut into (or raised) to allow valve to be fitted?

 

Appreciate you taking an interest.

 

That looks like it's a 6 or 8 inch flue?

 

I'd say it could be fitted under the elbow and behind the stove but I would like it to be low down to reduce any chance of blowback (which seems highly unlikely as the issue appears to be too much draught). There's this picture on a US ebay site

 

6" Stove Pipe Draft Control Tee Damper Regulator B34TJ06 New | eBay

 

Ours was a 4" one and TEEd into a 6" flue, I'm still in contact with my old boss but one and can get his advice about regulations if necessary.

 

Which may give a better idea of how one might fit below your existing flue but you'd need to find a UK supplier and read the correct way to install.