Husq 365 Clutch dilemma

[MartyJ76]

Can't solve this. Cany anyone add any light or similar issue?

 

Rebuilt a 365 that had been crawled over by a tracked chipper. Included new bearing seals as split crank to replace clutch side.

 

Ok. all back together with new rear handle to boot (non OEM but it seems reasonably rugged). Fired it up but chain is turning over with every pull. It ticks over and idle and Low adjust as they should hence discounted leak around new seals yet chain is turning no matter what.

 

Looked a little deeper thought clutch was shot thus engaging with every pull, but springs not that weak. Pulled apart clutch side, I discover clutch appears to be binding with oiler (this after looking without sprocket on).

 

The order things are reassembled according to diagrams are (thin washer) before oiler (so this sits virtually next to bearing seal) then oiler torx screwed down, then clutch directly on top (reverse thread).

 

But even if i sit clutch only lightly tightened on it still binds with and turns oiler. This obviously then turns sprocket and hence chain.

 

I prob should post pictures but there are so few parts involved, I cant seem to seat clutch without it tightening on to oiler and spinning it, there's plenty of play elsewhere and am used to tightening clutch down reasonably firmly and not catching on other models? even with a thin washer inserted in there its still going to pick the oiler up. Driving me mad, am wondering if crank has been bent (even only a microscopic amount) encouraging the clutch to bind?

 

arghh

 

Any ideas?

[njm]

Can't solve this. Cany anyone add any light or similar issue?

 

Rebuilt a 365 that had been crawled over by a tracked chipper. Included new bearing seals as split crank to replace clutch side.

 

Ok. all back together with new rear handle to boot (non OEM but it seems reasonably rugged). Fired it up but chain is turning over with every pull. It ticks over and idle and Low adjust as they should hence discounted leak around new seals yet chain is turning no matter what.

 

Looked a little deeper thought clutch was shot thus engaging with every pull, but springs not that weak. Pulled apart clutch side, I discover clutch appears to be binding with oiler (this after looking without sprocket on).

 

The order things are reassembled according to diagrams are (thin washer) before oiler (so this sits virtually next to bearing seal) then oiler torx screwed down, then clutch directly on top (reverse thread).

 

But even if i sit clutch only lightly tightened on it still binds with and turns oiler. This obviously then turns sprocket and hence chain.

 

I prob should post pictures but there are so few parts involved, I cant seem to seat clutch without it tightening on to oiler and spinning it, there's plenty of play elsewhere and am used to tightening clutch down reasonably firmly and not catching on other models? even with a thin washer inserted in there its still going to pick the oiler up. Driving me mad, am wondering if crank has been bent (even only a microscopic amount) encouraging the clutch to bind?

 

arghh

 

Any ideas?

Main bearing not seated correctly , Crank not fitted correctly , china crank case ?

[MartyJ76]

managed to get an original Husq replacement crank side to case, i think bearing seated aok since it's ticking over as it always did, it revs out aok, just oiler binding with clutch? hence if i engage brake it stalls. do you think an ill fitted crank or bearing seated too lightly would mean it might 'pull' the clutch on to the worm drive? it's plausible i guess if it means there was too little thread exposed clutch side and hence nowhere for clutch to go but on to worm drive. If it's this i won't pull it apart again being as it's tuning fine and no air leaks, i might just file off some of the crank (clutch) thread. everything else seats fine so. Sounds extreme i guess. Thanks for the response, got me thinking outside the box.

[MartyJ76]

Aha, may have solution (after 3 nights pain). Looking at pics of replacement worm gears, i think i might have worm gear, insert and washer reassembled incorrectly> Fingers crossed and thanks for the encouragement Arbtalkers

[njm]

managed to get an original Husq replacement crank side to case, i think bearing seated aok since it's ticking over as it always did, it revs out aok, just oiler binding with clutch? hence if i engage brake it stalls. do you think an ill fitted crank or bearing seated too lightly would mean it might 'pull' the clutch on to the worm drive? it's plausible i guess if it means there was too little thread exposed clutch side and hence nowhere for clutch to go but on to worm drive. If it's this i won't pull it apart again being as it's tuning fine and no air leaks, i might just file off some of the crank (clutch) thread. everything else seats fine so. Sounds extreme i guess. Thanks for the response, got me thinking outside the box.

 

The crank must be fitted to the clutch side first , flush with the bearing .

[MartyJ76]

Hi NJM you mean when reassembling the case? I foresee problems in this case as I have fitted in reverse (as it was clutch side of case cracked by chipper, only superficiallly but spoiled front of case) hence i pulled bearing and crank from clutch side and fitted new clutch side. As i remember i wasnt happy that bearing didnt sit flush on inside of case it wouldn't pull in tight, case sits tight and is airtight on both lower crank area and oil housing (so far). If it was anything less it wouldn't tick over so good. I shall expect problems if the above is the case. oh dear, it's been an enlightening experience nevertheless

[njm]

Hi NJM you mean when reassembling the case? I foresee problems in this case as I have fitted in reverse (as it was clutch side of case cracked by chipper, only superficiallly but spoiled front of case) hence i pulled bearing and crank from clutch side and fitted new clutch side. As i remember i wasnt happy that bearing didnt sit flush on inside of case it wouldn't pull in tight, case sits tight and is airtight on both lower crank area and oil housing (so far). If it was anything less it wouldn't tick over so good. I shall expect problems if the above is the case. oh dear, it's been an enlightening experience nevertheless

 

Yes the crank should be fitted clutch side first then flywheel side case fitted , How did you fit the bearing ? and how did you pull the crank into the case ?

Edited March 10, 2016 by njm
info

[MartyJ76]

well, after various discussions on cutting appropriate size pipe to house clutchside spindle on outside of case, therefore allowing clutch itself to be tightened on thus effectively pulling the crank and case into place....I found that heating the case, freezing the crank (and fly side of case in which it sat) and thereafter torquing down screws in a uniform pattern, all seemed to sit in place. the bearing was proud on the interior by a fraction of a mm i would say, or it seemed to be. The new seal sat over everything nice and flush, it seemed, as it should be. Time will tell after I have given it a run out i guess.

[njm]

well, after various discussions on cutting appropriate size pipe to house clutchside spindle on outside of case, therefore allowing clutch itself to be tightened on thus effectively pulling the crank and case into place....I found that heating the case, freezing the crank (and fly side of case in which it sat) and thereafter torquing down screws in a uniform pattern, all seemed to sit in place. the bearing was proud on the interior by a fraction of a mm i would say, or it seemed to be. The new seal sat over everything nice and flush, it seemed, as it should be. Time will tell after I have given it a run out i guess.

 

There is your problem then , crank will not be flush with the bearing on the clutch side ..

[forest tink]

had a 372 with that kind of problem,turned out it was the worm drive to tight to the crank,think it was a husky recall if i mind right