200T erratic running - classic symptoms?

[peckerwoo]

Greetings gents,

So, amidst my cheek:D - 200t zama carb faulty?

Only had 4 new chains on this so cant say its been worked hard but fiddling with LA & L due to random bad running resulted in racing like mad now & taking a while to slow down after throttle release then dying.

Changes revs on its own accord if found idle tick over,

Basically it dosnt start or starts & revs very high.

Ive stripped the carb best i can ([ame=

]

[/ame]) & cleaned with comp air & can of carb cleaner but didnt notice any gunk/residue nor oiled sawdust fragments, (basics: spark plug looks ok, fuel filter in tank & in carb good, air filter comp air cleaned, new fuel mix check)

BUT their was a lot of sawdust under the air filter around the carb assembly so could the TANK BREATHER be clogged?

I dont know where to check for air leaks as prior threads indicate this highly likely, as do crank seals?

(Is the "intake boot" different to the "impulse line"?)

I can recall v hot exhausts last year (which burnt a hole in my new sip innovs at the time but i was inverted in a syc) which i assume was the start of the problem?

Recoil start dosnt seem such a hard pull indicating lower comp & dreaded scored piston? but i thought this would prevent running at all?

V quiet workwise so before i go on a bread & water diet i hope any pointers could help me try further fixes prior to "mr expensive husky stihl dealer small tool & hire etc"?

At t'end a mi tether but Many thank you's in advance for help!

[Mick Dempsey]

I ending up spending nearly half the price of a new 201 trying to resolve similar problems.

 

It's wanked, get a new one.

[monkeymoreton]

Sounds like the crank seals are gone as soon as your saw starts running crap and holding revs with no throttle it's a air leak either crank seals or else where

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[s.varty]

If this saw is your main work tool. either put it in to a main dealer or as mick says basically bin it and get a new one.

[harrythecat178]

Its an air leak, confirm with a vacumn test and start with crank seals, but do remove exhaust and inspect for scored piston. Worth doing if it is scored especially as Stihl have just revised many of their piston / barrel assemblies downwards in price

Edited February 22, 2016 by harrythecat178

[spudulike]

You really have too much going on that may be wrong and without any logical way of ensuring issues are ruled out, you will find it a time and money consuming process trying to fix this saw.

 

The fact the saw is revving high and the hanging on to revs are classic air leak issues. Crank seals are unlikely as it is unlikely they will leak enough air to cause symptoms so severe. It is more likely that the intake boot is split or the impulse line has come off/split.

 

Personally I would pressure and vac check the bottom end ruling out any air leaks and then concentrate on the carb if there are none. If you don't have the kit then make sure the impulse line is connected under the air/carb box just above the fuel cap and if that is OK then strip the top handle off and check the inlet manifold - the underside often splits.

 

If these items are OK then it is likely the issue is with the carb but it sounds like you don't have much of a clue on how to adjust one so it may be a long process. It is easy to bugger up carbs if you don't know how to do the repairs and will usually end up in frustration!

[peckerwoo]

Pronto with Noble responses, many thanks indeed,

I wasnt hopeful & 5 years use isnt great but i dont like driving vehicles too cos i havnt a clue about combustion engines?

But again, thank you all for taking time out to reply

(Time to ponder a begging letter to "cuz" in the US for shippin a 200t to blighty?)

[Mick Dempsey]

You'll get a 201 with electronic gubbins these days. A top saw apparently.

[peckerwoo]

Coincidentally micks last post on the 23rd of february was when i also handed this 200t into a local "stihl partner",,,and its "stihl" awaiting a fix!!?!!

Usual blurb such as "parts arrived next on the list" "its going to be looked at next" "the guys dealing with it now" all go through my ears with dismay.

49 days down the line and now i've built a cluster of "flavellas" for processing logs, as i cant do much else workwise, then this has literally forced me to live & eat in 'em due to minimal earnings?

But if anyone could offer advice should i find myself in this situ again (i pray not!) then when a saw starts to run hot, what are the basic maintenance steps one could carry out?

I always look after my kit, clean, oil, replace consumables etc but this last episode has me stumped but ive never seen so much as a cylinders innards or crank etc so simply cannot carry out my own repairs? despite having use of a workshop.

Zero funds for a new below-performing t540 or 201,(compared to a 200 anyway?) so when your local dealers fix time goes into months then what other avenue would you guys go down?

Not wishing to appear negative but i see the sun setting on my arb work & means to live off?,,,& not much in the way of spring warmth on the cards?

Regs, vic meldrew.

[spudulike]

I didn't really like to push but if you had sent in in to me, you would have had around 35 days of work out of your now reliable saw!

 

49 days is a pretty long time! I usually tell owners that their time is best spent doing what they are good at whilst I am left to do what I am good at. The MS200 has a few foibles but if these are sorted during a service, you get a damn good saw!