Beech posts

[agg221]

Thanks for the reply alec, just a few questions regarding your post.

 

I've got 4x4 for the legs what do you mean by pull them in a bit from the ends? Do you mean the end of the Bench?

 

I think the top will be made from 4" thick boards hopefully either two or three, they will be cut as close to the centre of the tree, but not including the pith that will be the best i can do as regards getting them as close to quarter sawn. I hope they won't move to much?

 

When you say leave a gap to the outside for the tenons on the legs to fit the top piece on what exactly do you mean? I thought wood generally will only shrink in width more than length? so would i just need to leave more of a gap in the mortise/tenon that allows the top to shrink width ways?

 

Would you use tusked mortice and tenon joints for all the stretchers? (both length and width)

 

I hope this makes sense! I might be overthinking this a bit...

 

Hi James,

 

Pulling the legs in - I mean positioning them far enough in from the ends/sides of the bench that you don't bang your shin on a projecting tusk tenon. I would use tusked tenons on all joints in the legs - this is because the legs are going to shrink in the 4" thickness and the rails are effectively not going to shrink in length, so all joints (length and width) will work loose equally.

 

If your boards are near-quartered they shouldn't cup too much. Rods through will also minimise this.

 

What I am trying to describe with slotted mortices holding the top to the legs is as you have said - the top will shrink as the wood dries so the mortices will move closer together, whereas the rail won't so the tenons will be fixed in position. This means there needs to be additional width to the mortice slot for the tenon to slide in to.

 

Hope that explains the thinking

 

Alec

[jamesd]

Hi James,

 

Pulling the legs in - I mean positioning them far enough in from the ends/sides of the bench that you don't bang your shin on a projecting tusk tenon. I would use tusked tenons on all joints in the legs - this is because the legs are going to shrink in the 4" thickness and the rails are effectively not going to shrink in length, so all joints (length and width) will work loose equally.

 

If your boards are near-quartered they shouldn't cup too much. Rods through will also minimise this.

 

What I am trying to describe with slotted mortices holding the top to the legs is as you have said - the top will shrink as the wood dries so the mortices will move closer together, whereas the rail won't so the tenons will be fixed in position. This means there needs to be additional width to the mortice slot for the tenon to slide in to.

 

Hope that explains the thinking

 

Alec

 

Thank you for the reply, yes that explains it perfectly!

 

My only issue with using the tusked tenons for the short stretchers is that, like you said the legs would have to be inset a bit to avoid me catching them with my legs etc all the time. This would mean i would loose the legs as a potential clamping surface, thats why I'd like to keep them flush with the top.

 

I've been looking into the idea of "knockdown bolts" so that they can be tightened as the wood shrinks.

Here is a link of what they are: (basically a bolt and a barrel nut)

Veritas Tools - Workbench Accessories - Special Bench Bolts

 

This would mean they could be tightened as the wood shrinks. I would use these on all the short rails/stretchers and possibly even the long ones.

I would use a mortice and tenon for the top as we discussed earlier.

 

Does this sound like a good compromise/idea?

 

Thanks for all the help!

 

James.