TP150PHM Chipper Clutch

[JamesDS]

Hi all

 

I've just picked up a 2004 TP150PHM (that's the trailer-mounted one) from a local arborist buddy who was sick of it taking up space in his lockup. He sold it cheap because it needs some TLC, and the first thing needing work is the clutch.

 

It looks like the clutch has disintegrated completely, so i'm resigned to purchasing a new assembly from Osbournes, but i'd like to do the work myself if possible.

 

Does anyone know anything about how to remove and replace the clutch assembly, or if it's even possible without lifting the whole engine out. I can't even see how to release the tension on the main drive v-belts - or find a manual online

 

If it is an engine-out job, can anyone recommend a Bicester/Aylesbury/Oxford/Buckingham area engineer that understands these machines?

 

Thanks in advance, and happy new year

Cheers

JDS

[Joe d]

get in touch with atkinson vos at bentham , they sent me a manual online and the workshop engineers are very helpful , cheers hope this helps

[PeteB]

Post a picture of the bell housing, it may be easy, but sometimes it is a lot easier to put the engine on the bench to be honest.

[lewisyounger16]

Thing I learned fitting was, most times its quicker to take the engine off. That effort is payed back in ease of work.

 

Sent from my D6603 using Tapatalk

[JamesDS]

Post a picture of the bell housing, it may be easy, but sometimes it is a lot easier to put the engine on the bench to be honest.

 

As requested, pictures as follows:

.1. Picture of the engine, showing the main drive wheel on the right.

.2. Picture of the main drive wheel, showing the clutch assembly at the bottom.

 

Those two v-belts visible in both picture, link the clutch assembly with the main drive wheel. There is no belt tensioner assembly, which makes me wonder how the hell you fit replacement belts.

 

Anyone any idea where to get a workshop manual for these?

Cheers

 

JDS

[PeteB]

Belt tension is more than likely done by shifting the engine across the floor of the engine bay. Pull the engine out a sit it on a bench. Remove bell housing and the clutch will be bolted to the flywheel. If it is a plate assembly then get it relined. If it is the three section friction assembly, these are seat and slightly difficult to fit but do-able.

[JamesDS]

Thanks for that, the big help was "Belt tension is more than likely done by shifting the engine across the floor of the engine bay". I think that is probably the key to this, which means I may be able to do it without removing it.

 

Anyone hear of a service manual for one of these?

[PeteB]

Anything available from Lindana TP? I always thought that Osbourne's, the original importer would be a good call for info.

[JamesDS]

Thanks for your help, this is what I did:

 

1. Bought folding crane off Machine mart with a vat-free voucher, for that price, it's a no-brainer.
   
2. Got the engine out, it's not difficult with the right tools, most of which I already had. It's technically possible to do a clutch, belts and mounts without removing the engine, but you'll end up not doing it right, getting filthy, skinning all your knuckles and with a screaming back ache for no saved time and not a lot of saved money. Just get the bugger out, it's much simpler!
   
3. I cleaned the engine, no one needs that amount of gritty grease covering everything, and it allowed me to de-clog the rad. I used truck-wash in a spray bottle and a pressure washer.
   
4. The clutch removal needs either a really expensive tool, or a really cheap one and a bit of sense. I already owned the cheapy (search ebay for "2MT drift") and noted that the last time the clutch was removed, it was done cheaply, but without the sense bit.
   
5. I cleaned up the damaged clutch taper while swearing about amateurs.
   
6. I checked all the important parts for wear and ordered replacements with Osbournes. They were not the cheapest by about 9%, but the quality of aftersales and extremely knowledgeable telephone support easily made it worth the extra few quid. Ask for Michael, he is incredibly helpful and I could not have done this without him. I'll buy all my future parts off them.
   
7. I replaced the fuel lines with clear reinforced poly pipe so I could see when there's air or gunk in there, Osbournes also supplied an inline transparent fuel filter. These aren't hi-pressure injection engines, so you don't need crimped connectors and hi-pressure tubing.
   
8. Parts will arrive tomorrow and i'll fit at the weekend, and maybe put the engine back in then. Assuming that the hydraulics are all ok, we'll be greasing those nipples and a go for testing next week.
   

 

From the quote I was given to replace ONLY the clutch, I reckon i've saved about £400 after tool purchases. I also found a bunch of extra stuff that needed doing that the guy hadn't noticed.

 

To the next chap that wants to save himself the cost and DIY, PM me if you want any advice

 

Cheers

JDS

[Breezeblock]

good for you the only thing i would point out is your fuel pipe it tends to go hard after a relatively short time and weeps diesel