Glen Farrow boiler smokey

[Duffryn]

Rather simple then, the main problem strikes me is the direct contact with water in the side walls.

 

AGREED BUT LIMITING DROPS IN BOILER WATER TEMPERATURE AND OBTAINING NO MORE THAN 20 DEGREE DIFFERENTIAL BETWEEN FLOW AND RETURN CAN MINIMISE THIS ISSUE

 

Also a simple on off switch for the fans isn't sensible, can the thermostat be changed to a programmable one that has a couple of fan speeds?. THIS WOULD BE EASY TO DO AND WOULD BE EASIER TO USE

 

 

My boiler has primary and secondary fans speeds linked which is daft as you really need more primary air as the wood gets wetter. AGREED BUT THEN THE BOILERS ARE CHEAP AND THIS ADDS COST.

 

Does the air simply enter at the back and then exit up the fire tubes? YES VIA A VARIABLE SEED FAN. I think I would experiment with reducing heat loss to the side walls even if the is reduces the boiler output. YES BUT I KNOW THE ISSUE CAN BE SOLVED WITHOUT DOING THIS AND BOILER OUTPUT IS ALREADY BELOW STATED CAPACITY

[R5log]

Here's a few pictures of the boiler burning different stages this morning. Took your advise and burnt small off cuts and kept them below the secondary air valves heaped it up in the middle. Better but still a bit smokey. What's your thoughts?

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Hi, how many mw are u getting in 24 hours?

Thanks

[openspaceman]

I KNOW THE ISSUE CAN BE SOLVED WITHOUT DOING THIS AND BOILER OUTPUT IS ALREADY BELOW STATED CAPACITY

 

Okay if you can cure the problem by firing technique this is the best option.

 

The thing looks more like a (poor) heat exchanger with a fire dumped in it and lends itself to attaching a Veto chip stoker where the loading door is, if they can still be found.

[BARNSLEY BOB]

all fuel must be dry to get results.

 

larch and other softwoods are a bugger to dry.

 

hired a cracker in spring and cracked 75t 100%fsc ready for this burning season.

 

resin in softwoods as bad as oak .untill dry.

 

sycamore, dries quick,burns clean,is a weed,invasive species,grows quick,great for the carbon cycle.

[Celtictimber]

Had a visit from Paul Kitchen (owner of Glenfarrow) today, very nice chap and he was most helpful with the problems Ive been having with the smoke on the boiler and has sorted me out.

seems the main problem we've been having is over filling still although we had cut down a lot it wasn't obviously enough. Boiler burnt all day today very well. Small amount of smoke when then blower fan turns off when temperature is hit but not for long. Also to my surprise the black flakey tar bits on the sides and door have burnt off and cleaned up.

I've got to say it for all the team at Glenfarrow from the sales team to the fitters on site and after sales back up they have been a great company to deal with.

[Duffryn]

Had a visit from Paul Kitchen (owner of Glenfarrow) today, very nice chap and he was most helpful with the problems Ive been having with the smoke on the boiler and has sorted me out.

seems the main problem we've been having is over filling still although we had cut down a lot it wasn't obviously enough. Boiler burnt all day today very well. Small amount of smoke when then blower fan turns off when temperature is hit but not for long. Also to my surprise the black flakey tar bits on the sides and door have burnt off and cleaned up.

I've got to say it for all the team at Glenfarrow from the sales team to the fitters on site and after sales back up they have been a great company to deal with.

 

Good to hear you have got it sorted and credit to Glenfarrow for helping you. A bit of smoke on start up and when fans kick in etc is perfectly normal. The only problem now is the frequency of re fuelling.

[L.b]

How long does a gf 210 boiler burn for before it will need refilling. Thanks 

[jrgatelogs]

Hi. Just had a read through this topic. Interesting read, these boilers are simple but take a bit of thought to run! 
Do you manage to keep the kiln running all night? I’m about through the day and can keep on top of the boiler but find unless it’s summer and the boiler isn’t having to work as hard to keep the water temperature up, I struggle to keep the water warm enough for a full night. 
Thanks

[Chalgravesteve]

1 hour ago, jrgatelogs said:

Hi. Just had a read through this topic. Interesting read, these boilers are simple but take a bit of thought to run! 
Do you manage to keep the kiln running all night? I’m about through the day and can keep on top of the boiler but find unless it’s summer and the boiler isn’t having to work as hard to keep the water temperature up, I struggle to keep the water warm enough for a full night. 
Thanks

You need a large accumulator tank. I run a 197kW Dragon with a 30,000 litre accumulator. Burn the boiler hard and get the heat into the accumulator and draw the kiln heat from the accumulator as required. Then you can run it all night 

[Chalgravesteve]

It is also almost impossible in my view to try and maintain the water temperature in the water jacket/heat exchanger system by regulating the heat of the burn in a GF Boiler (or my Dragon for that matter!) The burn will go through various phases of heat, but once it escalates hotter than 80 degrees, you are heating a small amount of water with a great deal of heat and very little margin for error. The last thing you want is a water overheat and a boiler still burning as that is bloody dangerous. 

 

I am assuming that you have an upper limit of water temperature in the system of 80 degrees beyond which your automated processes should be shutting down the burn as much as possible as you are in danger of having the water starting to boil. Whatever you have attached to the boiler (kiln/radiators etc ) that draws the heat off, cannot be taking more than a few degrees off the water temperature in the circuit, so it is really easy in a small, low volume water system to cause an overheat on the water. 

 

So it is far easier to operate an accumulator tank system, which means that the upward change in water temperature is far more gradual and enables you to shut down the boiler burn and maintain a temperature increase commensurate with the drawn off heat of your kiln/radiators.