Blocked main jet 200t

[Maxnaggle]

Aka spud? I think there's something wrong with the impulse line at the crank end...

[Maxnaggle]

I'll have to nuke it from space, just to be sure though..

[spudulike]

With the list of kit you have changed, you have firstly probably spent way over what I charge to sort these issues and to put the whole machine back in to good service but also, the only thing left for you to replace are the crank seals that would have been tested in one of my refurbs and replaced saving all the other issues you have tried.

 

You have probably learnt a fair bit but TBH, I find that guys that climb & cut are better off earning their dosh climbing/cutting and if their saws go wrong, they give them to guys that own a workshop and know how to fix saws:001_rolleyes: it is good you tried:thumbup: but if you work out the loss of earnings on the time you have spent and parts you have used then it would have made more sense to send it in and get a stonking saw back that I do cover with a gentleman's warranty - if it fecks up, I take it back and take a pragmatic view on it!

 

So, you probably have a leaking crank seal. Generally this causes the idle to race unless the L screw is set mega rich, the high speed screw would need to be further out than 1 turn and it is likely that the saw wont snap down to an even idle when the throttle is released - this is why I bang on about pressure and vacuum tests, there are a few further techniques I use doing these tests but they have saved me literally days of work and hundreds of pounds in parts when analysing issues with saws!

 

On the impulse line - just blow down it to make sure it is clear, the saw will enjoy it:001_tongue:

[Maxnaggle]

With the list of kit you have changed, you have firstly probably spent way over what I charge to sort these issues and to put the whole machine back in to good service but also, the only thing left for you to replace are the crank seals that would have been tested in one of my refurbs and replaced saving all the other issues you have tried.

 

You have probably learnt a fair bit but TBH, I find that guys that climb & cut are better off earning their dosh climbing/cutting and if their saws go wrong, they give them to guys that own a workshop and know how to fix saws:001_rolleyes: it is good you tried:thumbup: but if you work out the loss of earnings on the time you have spent and parts you have used then it would have made more sense to send it in and get a stonking saw back that I do cover with a gentleman's warranty - if it fecks up, I take it back and take a pragmatic view on it!

 

So, you probably have a leaking crank seal. Generally this causes the idle to race unless the L screw is set mega rich, the high speed screw would need to be further out than 1 turn and it is likely that the saw wont snap down to an even idle when the throttle is released - this is why I bang on about pressure and vacuum tests, there are a few further techniques I use doing these tests but they have saved me literally days of work and hundreds of pounds in parts when analysing issues with saws!

 

On the impulse line - just blow down it to make sure it is clear, the saw will enjoy it:001_tongue:

 

Haha thanks spud! In my defence I did the pot and piston because the plug thread was damaged, and upon pulling out apart discovered pick up on the exhaust side,

The old carb was the piston pump type and wasnt playing ball, so I swapped that for one with out.

The impulse line had a split in it, so I went ahead and changed all the 'perishables'

Admittedly it is an up and down experience. I really enjoy working with engines and stuff, the down side being that I need the saw for work, which does take the edge off when the saw refuses to run properly. Seems a waste to chuck it away and buy new - as they have their own problems as well.

 

When blowing down the impulse line, can I blow into the crank and then into the handle/housing?

 

Thanks

[spudulike]

Haha thanks spud! In my defence I did the pot and piston because the plug thread was damaged, and upon pulling out apart discovered pick up on the exhaust side,

The old carb was the piston pump type and wasnt playing ball, so I swapped that for one with out.

The impulse line had a split in it, so I went ahead and changed all the 'perishables'

Admittedly it is an up and down experience. I really enjoy working with engines and stuff, the down side being that I need the saw for work, which does take the edge off when the saw refuses to run properly. Seems a waste to chuck it away and buy new - as they have their own problems as well.

 

When blowing down the impulse line, can I blow into the crank and then into the handle/housing?

 

Thanks

Just stick a bit of thin pipe on the line and blow down it rotating the engine and you will hear the air in the lower crankcase by the note of the air. It is unlikely to be blocked!

[Maxnaggle]

Well, I managed to snap one side of the crank off, do now the saw is in bits.... I've got a good feeling that it should run once it's back together! Interestingly, the piston was all carboned up? But the plug was biscuity brown in color..

[Stubby]

Well, I managed to snap one side of the crank off, do now the saw is in bits.... I've got a good feeling that it should run once it's back together! Interestingly, the piston was all carboned up? But the plug was biscuity brown in color..

 

Snapped the crank ? ! Undoing the clutch the wrong way ???

[Maxnaggle]

I was using the clutch to try and press the oil seal in... Blew the threaded end of the crank of before the seal pressed in.. I did read that they are hard work but didn't appreciate how hard it would be! Got excited at the idea of a working saw and pushed to hard I guess...

 

D'oh

[spudulike]

Blimey, what a palaver, it ain't that difficult......is it???

[Maxnaggle]

This is a learning experience for me don't forget!