Non native weed control in woodland.....

[sihart100]

I've recently purchased 10 acres of woodland that borders on to a river, and I've got a fairly bad Himalayan Balsam problem. Whats the best and fastest way of dealing with it?

 

I've also got 2 small sections of Japanese knotweed that needs to be dealt with before it gets out of hand, so whats the best herbicide to deal with that?

 

Thanks Simon

[crawley park]

Roundup pro active or a cheaper alternative Gallop amenity.

Edited June 18, 2015 by crawley park

[One Buck]

Highly recommended.

 

[ame=http://www.amazon.co.uk/Pocket-Guide-Balsam-Bashing-non-native/dp/1906122628/ref=sr_1_sc_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1434658380&sr=8-1-spell&keywords=Balsom+Bashing]Pocket Guide to Balsam Bashing: and how to tackle other invasive non-native species: Amazon.co.uk: Theo Pike: 9781906122621: Books@@AMEPARAM@@http://ecx.images-amazon.com/images/I/51f3Dqy9bML.@@AMEPARAM@@51f3Dqy9bML[/ame]

[david wood]

on naughty list by a long way but careful spot application of garlon/timbrel and some diesel.

[saintsman54]

Stem injection over 3-5 years for the Japanese knotweed with a Glyphosate. However you may need an approval for using a herbicide near a watercourse, depending where the knotweed is.

[Yournamehere]

For the Balsam the best way really is by pullage.

Wait until the plants are well grown but pull before the seeds are set ie the plant will be in full flower.

For such a large plant the roots are very small - and flesh like - and almost only just tucked into the top of the ground - not deep at all - and they lift with a very gentle tug. Waiting till the plants are larger also means less bending so easier on the back.

Since they are an annual and don't regenerate from vegetative sections they can be left to rot in piles where you have pulled them. This also means that if any have gone to seed then the seeds are all in one spot and you will have a tight area to control next year.

Some seeds will lie dormant for two years or so, and you will miss some small plants, so you will need to repeat next year and in the future, but a big bash in the first year breaks the back of the job - future years is just mopping up

You could strim but it really is easier to pull.

You could cut through the base of the plant with a machette or similar but 1) it really is easier to pull and 2) if you cut above the first node you will get resproutage from that node.

When pulling some may break - the stems are very fragile, just hollow tubes - these will also regrow from the nodes.

I think that's all. Get out and have some fun; it's a very satisfying job and if there really is loads to do, have people round and do a barby.

Happy Days

Yourn

[Austin Spanners]

I echo what 'Yournamehere' says.

I appreciate that the use of herbicides can seem less exhaustive, easier on man power and your muscles. However, there is growing evidence to show that the long-term effect of these chemicals on the environment and wildlife is poorly understood, despite what the manufacturers state.

Indeed, as somebody else stated, there will be issues with applications adjacent to watercourses.

 

I have experience of balsam control on a river bank using cattle and sheep. The area was grazed, over a three year period, twice per year, and the balsam has all but gone. I can now pull the odd plant as I'm walking my dog. Easy!

 

I have also seen nature reserves cleared by groups of volunteers pulling the damned stuff up - all with great results.

 

I understand that it's not always possible to get ya hands on a bunch of cows when you need them but getting a group of mates together for a bit of pulling (hmmm) is cheaper than laying out for a load of chemicals and required equipment.

 

What ever you choose, good luck.

[kevinjohnsonmbe]

Chemical herbicide in the vicinity of a watercourse = very bad advice (stem injection for JKW may be acceptable however)

 

LA webpage usually has reasonable advice on invasive species control