260 not starting

[RobRainford]

Turns out the lad my dad has on the firewood pile has used almost neat fuel in the saw. He was saying it wouldn't start. I poured the fuel out and it was pale and almost clean.

 

Took the exhaust off and saw some scoring on the piston. Pot doesn't seem so bad but want some better opinions.

 

[openspaceman]

Pot doesn't seem so bad but want some better opinions.

 

 

If you clean the aluminium off the bore then I think it is unlikely to have suffered much damage.

 

A new meteor piston ( but as per an earlier thread re use the original gudgeon pin circlips) £15 plus delivery but sawtroll pointed out there was a change from 44mm to 44.7 mm (after 1 62 154 675 I think.

 

If you have the 44mm piston I'd like to compare it with the one from and fs360.

[spudulike]

The piston is shagged but the rings are still loose so not too bad but use a Meteor replacement.

 

Clean the aluminium off the bore fully until it has all gone, best use chemical and then rub off the oxide residue until it is clean and then hone with wet and dry of a small bore hone but don't go mad!

 

Should make 170psi plus when done! Set the H screw a tad rich for the first few tank fulls

[RobRainford]

What chemical do I need to clean the bore? How fine does the wet and dry need to be?

 

Also where is the best place to order the parts needed?

 

This level of fixing is new to me so have questions!

 

I still need to get that 200t up to you spud!

[Dan Forsh]

What chemical do I need to clean the bore? How fine does the wet and dry need to be?

 

Also where is the best place to order the parts needed?

 

This level of fixing is new to me so have questions!

 

I still need to get that 200t up to you spud!

 

Depending on your tolerance for boring mundane tasks. You could leave out the chemicals and just try sanding it out with the wet and dry.

 

I did an 026 with similar, if not worse, transfer than yours the other week and I'd say I had it done ready to go back on within an hour. No fingerprints left at the end of it. I think I was using 140 grit and finished off with 400 grit, just used water and turned the wet n dry regularly.

 

You can get your Meteor piston on ebay easily enough.

[spudulike]

What chemical do I need to clean the bore? How fine does the wet and dry need to be?

 

Also where is the best place to order the parts needed?

 

This level of fixing is new to me so have questions!

 

I still need to get that 200t up to you spud!

 

Brick cleaner is acidic and works so does caustic soda. As long as the aluminium fizzes, it will do the job.

 

Repetative rubbing of a damaged area will cause minute cavities that will lower compression and will take forever to bed in so get rid of the worst with the chemical first and then use 120 -140 followed by 400 grit to finish it - rub around the bore and not up and down.

 

You shouldn't be able to feel any damage once the job is finished.

 

MS200 - I am waiting for stuff for over a year from some:001_rolleyes:

[openspaceman]

What chemical do I need to clean the bore? How fine does the wet and dry need to be?

 

Also where is the best place to order the parts needed?

 

 

 

I use one of the gel oven cleaners, the reason being it leaves a telltale white mark where residue remains so applying a little and often to just these white areas gets the remains off.

 

A chap from Greece trading as DLA has given me good service but be aware he sells non meteor parts too.

[RobRainford]

can anybody point me to a meteor pot & piston? would rather just go straight for new parts. also, how do i get the piston off the con rod? is there a metal tube/sleeve in the top that needs knocking out?

[Dan Forsh]

You will need to prise out one of the little circlips at the end of the gudgeon pin and then push the pin out on the direction of the clip you've removed. Some are easy, some are a bit stiff to move. Usually push them out with a similar diameter dowel or something like that. if it's stiff light taps with a small hammer on the end of your dowel will shift it.

 

This one on ebay seems to be all Meteor, some bundle a Meteor piston up with an unknown brand cylinder.

 

Stihl 026,MS 260 cylinder kit,44,7 mm,Made in Italy by METEOR,OEM quality | eBay

[openspaceman]

can anybody point me to a meteor pot & piston? would rather just go straight for new parts. also, how do i get the piston off the con rod? is there a metal tube/sleeve in the top that needs knocking out?

 

The metal tube is the gudgeon pin and as Dan says you need to prise out at least one circlip, stuff some clean rag around the conrod to prevent it pinging into the crankcase.

 

Mike has suggested I try this:

 

STIHL MS260 026 44 7 CYLINDER KIT NEW NISIC WITH TEFLON PISTON 1 YR WARRANTY

 

and it seems cheap enough for a punt on an old saw that has already been repaired once. Time will tell after this weekend.